More power, less sound?!

[Do_ 10+ year member]

Wait he just said his old sub was SVC 4 and his new sub is DVC 4?

I bet you wired it up in series. If you do that then your new sub is effectively 8 ohm which will definately get you less power and sound. If that amp is 2 ohm stable you will want to paralell them. This will drop your effective resistance down to 2 ohms where you should get quite a bit more power than the original sub you had.

Make sure your amp is 2 ohm stable first, then try this. Run a wire from the Amps + to one of the subs +, then a second wire from the amps + to the subs second +. So you should have two wires from amp to sub now. Then go from Sub - to Amp - on the first set of connects, and go Sub - to Amp - on the second set of connects. You should now have four wires. If you wire it this way the load your amp will see will be a 2 ohm load and it will put out more power. If you have it wired up in series + amp to + on sub - on Sub to + on Sub - on Sub to - on Amp then your resistance is jumped to 8 ohms where you would get quite a bit less power.

EDIT:

Here I made you a diagram. This is how it should look:

 

[ripxtide 10+ year member]

* Kenwood MONO bass amplifier

* Rated power (4 ohm, 20 ~ 200 Hz, 0.5% THD) @ 14,4V : 300W RMS

* Rated power (2 ohm, 100Hz, 0,9% THD) @ 14,4V : 550W RMS

* Maximum output power @ 14,4V : 1100W

* Aluminium Die-cast heat-sink with Aluminium dress-plate

* Power MOSFET Switching Power Supply

* 2 ohm load capability

* Gold plated RCA Line in & output

* Gold plated terminals

* Plug-type Speaker Level Input

* Bass Managment System by wired remote

* Dual Mono Drive

* Wired Bass Remote

* Copper EE-Core Power Transformer

* Toröidal Noise Suppression Filter

* Ground Isolation Circuit

* Variable built in low-pass filter (24 dB/oct.): 50 ~ 200 Hz

* Infrasonic filter (18dB/oct.): 0/15/25 Hz

* Variable Bass Boost (Variable gain): 50 ~ 200 Hz, 0 ~ 18 dB

* Variable input sensitivity: 0.2 ~ 5V

* Frequency response: 5 ~ 200 Hz

* Signal noise ratio:

* Maximum current consumption: 40 A

* Input Impedance (1kHz): 10 kohm

* Operation Voltage (11 - 16V): 14.4V

* Dimensions (W x H x D): 280 x 61 x 286 mm

__________________________________________________________________

There are the specs. It's 2 ohm capable and I guess it's a mono amp, but it has 2 sets of pos/neg terminals for some reason.

Doitle - I like your diagram //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif makes it easy for me. But since I have 2 sets of + and - terminals, instead of putting 2 wires under one terminal, should I split it up so each of the 4 terminals has a wire?

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

yeah, try to get us the specs on the amp, and tell us exactly how you wired up your sub.

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

ok so your amp is mono, and is stable at 2 ohms, this is good. Pretty much need to follow doitle's wiring diagram. It doesn't matter which set of + and - terminals you use on your amp, just pick one. This will bring you the full 550 watts rms that your amp is able to put out, and should hopefully make your car louder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

lol doitle you could just linked him to the sticky.

again to the original poster, find out how your sub is wired.

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

you can run a wire from each of your terminals, 1 from positive on amp to positive on sub, 1 from other postitive on amp to other positive on sub and so on, this will give you an effective resistance of 2 ohms

 

[ripxtide 10+ year member]

Here's my expert photoshop attempt.

One wire into the first pos, one wire into the first neg.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

Here's my expert photoshop attempt.
One wire into the first pos, one wire into the first neg.

okay? that doesn't tell us much to be honest. that just tells us how you wired the sub to the amp. we need to know how the sub is wired (doitle diagram). or here, read this http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31984. we want to know how the SUB is wired.

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

alright, from what it looks, you have it wired at 8 ohms, which is bad in this case cause you want to be loud. pretty much you are only giving your sub 150 watts or so. Wire it like I told you in my previous post and you should be good to go.

 

[ripxtide 10+ year member]

okay? that doesn't tell us much to be honest. that just tells us how you wired the sub to the amp. we need to know how the sub is wired (doitle diagram)

I'm going to pull the sub out tomorrow and let you guys know. It's nearly 4:30am here though, so I'm hitting the sack. Hopefully I'll be booming(louder) tomorrow. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 

[GemaRastem 10+ year member]

okay? that doesn't tell us much to be honest. that just tells us how you wired the sub to the amp. we need to know how the sub is wired (doitle diagram). or here, read this http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31984. we want to know how the SUB is wired.

if he only has 2 wires running from the amp, I'm guessing he has it in series.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

if he only has 2 wires running from the amp, I'm guessing he has it in series.

yea its a guess but my guess is that he doesn't have the sub without a box right? so the guy that installed the sub for him wired it inside the box to the terminal cups. and then all you need is one negative and one positive to the amp. so we don't konw for sure how he has wired his sub. we want to know for sure.

 

[ripxtide 10+ year member]

Okay guys. I took the sub out and I drew a little diagram to show you guys how it's wired.

 

[alphakenny1 10+ year member]

yea you have it wired to 8 ohms my friend. you're only getting like 150 watts to the sub. wire it in parallel (using the link i gave you) and you'll have 2 ohms and you'll get 550 watts.

 

[jujumantb 10+ year member]

So they're the same ohm. I guess that means nothing changed really right?

NO! One is SINGLE VOICE COIL 4 OHM while one is DUAL VOICE COIL 4 OHM! Dual means there are TWO 4 ohm coils on that sub. In effect, this means, depending how you wire it, it could be wired to 8ohm or 2 ohm, NOT 4 ohm.