MINI cooper wall worklog

when i dealth with LN the crap was solid as a rock when it cured //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
Iffin I ever was to seal something up, and wanted it to remain flexible , I would probably use this stuff . //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

http://www.stickwithpl.com/products/detail.asp?PLProductID=21

 
I know this is two pages old at the point, but just got caught up with where I last read. Liquid Nails does dry super hard and thats the problem with using it as a sealant. Boxes flex. When they do and you have a super hard unforgiving "sealant" (adhesive) then you run the risk of cracking the sealant and not being sealed anymore. As compared to other sealants, say latex for example. They are made to remain slightly soft and flexible, so that when whatever they are sealing moves a little bit, it stays sealed over time.

Short description:

Latex caulk = long term sealant

Liquid Nails = long term (and insanely strong) bonding material

use good caulk for sealing seams, luquid nails for layering sheets of lumber, or glueing cats to walls....

 
In all my boxes I Titebond anywhere wood meats as I build, then use a good latex caulk on all the inside seems. i agree if your in need of a filler, then the saw dust / wood glud is a dam good combo as well (thats basicaly all MDF is)

 
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