mechman vs singer alt

[black05alti]

Go with the Singer alt

 

[Chriszle 10+ year member]

Did you check with Nate at Excessive Amperage?

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Did you check with Nate at Excessive Amperage?

No reply

 

[black05alti]

No reply

Excessive Amperage never replied to me either.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Runs at 599 for an alternator. Not sure if I want to spend that much

You get what you pay for when it comes to alts. I only run DC Power, even if you have to wait it's worth it IMO...

 

[Josef344]

I love my 310A from singer and it's pretty s*xy.

Probably have to be the best customer service hands down so far.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

I love my 310A from singer and it's pretty s*xy.Probably have to be the best customer service hands down so far.

I know a few guys who didn't have such great CS with him, so they would disagree with your statement...

 

[mrclean636 10+ year member]

mechman-425 shipped 240 amp 2 year warranty
singer 469 shipped 250 amp lifetime warranty

$44 more for 10 amps more. Have to decide for yourself if that is worth it to you. I'd say it would be if you actually get that extra 10 amps. A few things I would check to help your decision:

1. Make sure it is a direct bolt-on so you won't have to have a bracket made.

-Simply as stated

2. Find out if the upgraded alternator is in an OEM case or if it is a 3G or even 4G case.

-This has positives and negatives... an OEM case will be the same size, fit, and bracket with no worries. However OEM cases are meant to dissipate the heat of OEM components; as in your stock alt that pushes ~100-150amps depending on car. The case might restrict heat dissipationfor the H/O components and decrease it's life and output due to the temperatures.

-On the other end, a 3G or 4G case would be beneficial, and will most likely bolt right on too, but if it is a tight fit with the OEM case, the bigger case might not fit.

3. Find out the regulator that will be used (What voltage it will run at)

-If you are going to use AGM batteries such as XS, Kinetik, etc, you don't want to charge them above 14.8v . It will cause the batteries to expand. Not good even for the car electrical if it is sensitive.

4. Find out what each has for idle output and what actual ENGINE rpm you will see that number.

-I don't know what vehicle you have but if it's a smaller car and you idle around ~600rpm, you don't give two shits about a idle rating that is for about ~900rpm such as on a truck.

5. Find out what engine rpm the max output will be obtained.

-I've gotten quotes for an alt years ago when searching for my first car that obtained max output at 2,400 engine rpm... when the hell, besides flooring the car from a dead stop, would I ever see that.. oh.. NEVER!

Just a few ideas to look into as well. I've heard great things about both Singer and Mechman. DC power is a bit more expensive, I just ordered my alt from them last week. Just weigh the positives and negatives and you will figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Good luck!

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

$44 more for 10 amps more. Have to decide for yourself if that is worth it to you. I'd say it would be if you actually get that extra 10 amps. A few things I would check to help your decision:
1. Make sure it is a direct bolt-on so you won't have to have a bracket made.

-Simply as stated

2. Find out if the upgraded alternator is in an OEM case or if it is a 3G or even 4G case.

-This has positives and negatives... an OEM case will be the same size, fit, and bracket with no worries. However OEM cases are meant to dissipate the heat of OEM components; as in your stock alt that pushes ~100-150amps depending on car. The case might restrict heat dissipationfor the H/O components and decrease it's life and output due to the temperatures.

-On the other end, a 3G or 4G case would be beneficial, and will most likely bolt right on too, but if it is a tight fit with the OEM case, the bigger case might not fit.

3. Find out the regulator that will be used (What voltage it will run at)

-If you are going to use AGM batteries such as XS, Kinetik, etc, you don't want to charge them above 14.8v . It will cause the batteries to expand. Not good even for the car electrical if it is sensitive.

4. Find out what each has for idle output and what actual ENGINE rpm you will see that number.

-I don't know what vehicle you have but if it's a smaller car and you idle around ~600rpm, you don't give two shits about a idle rating that is for about ~900rpm such as on a truck.

5. Find out what engine rpm the max output will be obtained.

-I've gotten quotes for an alt years ago when searching for my first car that obtained max output at 2,400 engine rpm... when the hell, besides flooring the car from a dead stop, would I ever see that.. oh.. NEVER!

Just a few ideas to look into as well. I've heard great things about both Singer and Mechman. DC power is a bit more expensive, I just ordered my alt from them last week. Just weigh the positives and negatives and you will figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Good luck!

240 amp

500 rpm turn on

650 rpm - 100 amps

800 rpm - 140 amps

1500 rpm - 240 amps

$399

casing comes off of a 09 malibu they use. talking with mechman they also said since my car is heavily modified and since it idles at 900ish. has a large stall and cruises at 80mph at around 2700 rpm and shift points between 6700 and 7000 with a limiter at 7200 that i would benifit from an overdrive pully so i dont destroy the alt vs the typical underdrive that most dealers put on. he said the overdrive pully is very close to the stock size pully

 

[mrclean636 10+ year member]

240 amp500 rpm turn on

650 rpm - 100 amps

800 rpm - 140 amps

1500 rpm - 240 amps

$399

casing comes off of a 09 malibu they use. talking with mechman they also said since my car is heavily modified and since it idles at 900ish. has a large stall and cruises at 80mph at around 2700 rpm and shift points between 6700 and 7000 with a limiter at 7200 that i would benifit from an overdrive pully so i dont destroy the alt vs the typical underdrive that most dealers put on. he said the overdrive pully is very close to the stock size pully

Oh good, those are solid specs. Well comes down to your call man. I don't think you would make a mistake either way. Correct me if I am wrong but a overdrive pulley has a smaller diameter so it would actually turn faster than say the larger stock pulley. So with the high rpm shift points, wouldn't the overdrive pulley be a bad idea?

 

[Falcons 5,000+ posts]

with my past experiences i will only use singer and ohio generator. maybe dc if they arent backed up.

 

[mclerico83 5,000+ posts]

Oh good, those are solid specs. Well comes down to your call man. I don't think you would make a mistake either way. Correct me if I am wrong but a overdrive pulley has a smaller diameter so it would actually turn faster than say the larger stock pulley. So with the high rpm shift points, wouldn't the overdrive pulley be a bad idea?

yes he said he recomends putting a underdrive lol sorry. its a little bigger than a stock to slow the alternator down because at shift points of 6700rms could be hard on any alternator he said

 

[mrclean636 10+ year member]

yes he said he recomends putting a underdrive lol sorry. its a little bigger than a stock to slow the alternator down because at shift points of 6700rms could be hard on any alternator he said

Ah okay, I figured you mispoke lol. Probably would be a good idea then! Well now just compare singer's specs if you asked him.