Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
mechman vs singer alt
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="mrclean636" data-source="post: 8112946" data-attributes="member: 636269"><p>$44 more for 10 amps more. Have to decide for yourself if that is worth it to you. I'd say it would be if you actually get that extra 10 amps. A few things I would check to help your decision:</p><p></p><p>1. Make sure it is a direct bolt-on so you won't have to have a bracket made.</p><p></p><p>-Simply as stated</p><p></p><p>2. Find out if the upgraded alternator is in an OEM case or if it is a 3G or even 4G case.</p><p></p><p>-This has positives and negatives... an OEM case will be the same size, fit, and bracket with no worries. However OEM cases are meant to dissipate the heat of OEM components; as in your stock alt that pushes ~100-150amps depending on car. The case might restrict heat dissipationfor the H/O components and decrease it's life and output due to the temperatures.</p><p></p><p>-On the other end, a 3G or 4G case would be beneficial, and will most likely bolt right on too, but if it is a tight fit with the OEM case, the bigger case might not fit.</p><p></p><p>3. Find out the regulator that will be used (What voltage it will run at)</p><p></p><p>-If you are going to use AGM batteries such as XS, Kinetik, etc, you don't want to charge them above 14.8v . It will cause the batteries to expand. Not good even for the car electrical if it is sensitive.</p><p></p><p>4. Find out what each has for idle output and what actual ENGINE rpm you will see that number.</p><p></p><p>-I don't know what vehicle you have but if it's a smaller car and you idle around ~600rpm, you don't give two shits about a idle rating that is for about ~900rpm such as on a truck.</p><p></p><p>5. Find out what engine rpm the max output will be obtained.</p><p></p><p>-I've gotten quotes for an alt years ago when searching for my first car that obtained max output at 2,400 engine rpm... when the hell, besides flooring the car from a dead stop, would I ever see that.. oh.. NEVER!</p><p></p><p>Just a few ideas to look into as well. I've heard great things about both Singer and Mechman. DC power is a bit more expensive, I just ordered my alt from them last week. Just weigh the positives and negatives and you will figure it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mrclean636, post: 8112946, member: 636269"] $44 more for 10 amps more. Have to decide for yourself if that is worth it to you. I'd say it would be if you actually get that extra 10 amps. A few things I would check to help your decision: 1. Make sure it is a direct bolt-on so you won't have to have a bracket made. -Simply as stated 2. Find out if the upgraded alternator is in an OEM case or if it is a 3G or even 4G case. -This has positives and negatives... an OEM case will be the same size, fit, and bracket with no worries. However OEM cases are meant to dissipate the heat of OEM components; as in your stock alt that pushes ~100-150amps depending on car. The case might restrict heat dissipationfor the H/O components and decrease it's life and output due to the temperatures. -On the other end, a 3G or 4G case would be beneficial, and will most likely bolt right on too, but if it is a tight fit with the OEM case, the bigger case might not fit. 3. Find out the regulator that will be used (What voltage it will run at) -If you are going to use AGM batteries such as XS, Kinetik, etc, you don't want to charge them above 14.8v . It will cause the batteries to expand. Not good even for the car electrical if it is sensitive. 4. Find out what each has for idle output and what actual ENGINE rpm you will see that number. -I don't know what vehicle you have but if it's a smaller car and you idle around ~600rpm, you don't give two shits about a idle rating that is for about ~900rpm such as on a truck. 5. Find out what engine rpm the max output will be obtained. -I've gotten quotes for an alt years ago when searching for my first car that obtained max output at 2,400 engine rpm... when the hell, besides flooring the car from a dead stop, would I ever see that.. oh.. NEVER! Just a few ideas to look into as well. I've heard great things about both Singer and Mechman. DC power is a bit more expensive, I just ordered my alt from them last week. Just weigh the positives and negatives and you will figure it out [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif[/IMG] Good luck! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
mechman vs singer alt
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh