Mechman 240, red top, and big 3 dimming lights

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Mrcash05

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Just installed my Mechman S 240amp alt and big 3 with 0/1 ofc. Mi headlight are still dimming. I have a. 3 month old Otpima Redtop under the hood. Would a Xs power D3400R make a difference? Second battery in rear make it stop? To small of power wire to amps cause a drop? I'm using 4gauge to amps instead of 0/1 as at the time wasn't plan on running 1300rms.

Diamond Audio D3 amps

1100rms@. 1 ohm on sub amp

100x2@4 ohms for mids and highs

Thanks

Nick

 
more batteries won't stop dimming. dropping from the alt output of 14.4V to the battery float voltage of 12.8V will cause visible dimming.

most alts only make half as much current as rated at idle.

get a volt meter in the car (cig lighter style is fine) and monitor actual voltage, then report back with numbers at idle and at 2k RPM.

 
What's the biggest power/ground wire that amp will accept? Go with biggest possible. Could be a loose connection somewhere around electrical area.
@Loudz help this fella out. He's near you.
 
Amps will only accept 4g. When I run 0/1 back to amps I will use 0/1 with 4 gauge reducers I guess. Current distrobution block only accept 4 guage also. Prs 80 has volt meter. Is it accurate enough to use? If not I will order one and report back. Lights dim only when I go full tilt but at idle and cruising rpm's. I grounded alt to firewall and cleaned up some other stock grounds as well. I have another 4ft pcs of 0/1 guage that I can use for a 3 ground on big 3 if it's worth it?

 
Or you can run 1/0 right up to the amp and use a distro and a 6"-8" 4awg to the amp from there. At full tilt that amp is trying to get as much voltage as it can. try ******* a shake through a small straw and then through a bigger McDonald's straw.......

Use a meter on the amp as the display shows on the HU and see what the difference it. It may be, but I still wouldn't trust it.

 
Just ordered a stinger volt meter. Funds are low for an SMD right now. Is ok to run 0/1 to distortion I have with a 0/1 to 4g reducer or just buy new distobution with 0/1 inputs? I haven't heard anyone doing that to distrobution block yet with reducer.

 
Reducer would be ideal, but if you happen to have a block use it. Since you're going to buy anyways, just get reducers. Also, Doesn't make a difference Stinger/Meade, etc. Don't get to caught up in "brands" for little things like that. I've been running a blue Stinger for years now. Unless you just want "fancy". If so, start saving your money now.....

 
calibrate the meter with a known accurate dmm probing where the meter wires are touching otherwise you may be off a lot

one bank of caps can make a big difference if your voltage drops a lot quickly because your alternator cant keep up. the only other thing id consider doing is running a dedicated ground to your front battery

 
I thought grounds were supposed to be close to amps as possible? Myth or time and place for it? I'm assuming battery neg straight it ground on distribution block and no chassis ground by amps?

Thanks for everyone's input so far.

 
Time & place imo. I've done it both ways. Just recently I changed it from 2 runs ground (1/0) from battery (15ft ea) to 2 runs 10" ea to frame. I've noticed no difference.

 
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Mrcash05

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