mazda flex (vid)

proffessa
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la
this is my daily drive. 2 HCCA 12.2's and 4 USAmps MD2D's. roughly 3200wrms if power supply keeps up!

Peak= 147.7dB @ 30Hz

40Hz= 146.1dB

33Hz= 147.6dB

25Hz= 147.6dB

20Hz= 144.9dB



this is my boot which has been welded back up since this happened thanks to jay from carcruizing. i also ratchet strap it shut too.



safe, Henry:)

 
Looks like your steering wheel is on the wrong side..//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

Haha just kidding man, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif.

Nice to see people over the pond are bumping too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
cheers guys //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Maybe try a more solid car next time? could probably have another full db or more if you weren't losing so much energy into the car itself and outside
no shizzle, dude!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif check this, when i got the car the clever japanese designers had decided that they would install flip out rear quarter windows held in loosly with three studs on each side! these the studs were beginning to smash their way though the window glass whilst i played. i then treated the windows and bonded them in with wind screen pu bond from an auto glass repair place. after fixing this, our friend pressure decided that it would muller the boot hinges and latch instead! the roof also properly dented in in multiple areas during playing. i took down the classic rod hung style cloth roof lining and 'fibro fill' stuck the roof bracing back to the outside roof skin. i then layered over the whole roof with 9 layers of dynamat.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif the roof now sounds like a big sheet of thick rubber when u tap on it. the ripped out boot hinges were repositioned and welded back on with a large plate of 3mm steel reinforcing the hinge base's (fooking indestructible) thanks to Jay at carcruizin. the base of the boot is then ratchet strapped on left and right sides, through the sections in the inner boot skin and down under the exposed chassis arms. these jump across the enormous tyre well that dominates the boot floor. the only other things i can easilly do are to install blocks of wood, coach bolted behind the number plate, linking the back of the boot to the box and reinforce the rear quarters which i'm gonna do in th next couple of weeks. as for db gains, i have already had a 2 db's from doing the roof, boot and quarter windows. unfortunately, there is alot of force into the boot area and the huge back window is a completely flat pane! the lack of contour on this vast panel allows massive glass flex of up to 1/2" peak-peak in the centre. this remains a major loss and potentially an annoying mission, should it break, as the car is from 1989 and glass is a little to hard to come by:crap:! Henry;)

 
the tuning is 31hz in this instants. sealing off one port with a purpose built blocker tunes me in around 22hz. this allows me to bring up the bottom end for my Propper droppers average. the cab is 7.9 cube gross with a rather unique interior arrangement. flat as fook from 27hz to 53hz with a gentle wide peak around 30hz. 147.7db @ 30hz TL on the passenger head rest, door open. does 148.9db @ 30hz on the windscreen with the door open. safe, Henry:)

 
cheers mang!

thats pretty dark dude!



//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif:laugh://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
yeah, it seems that they are very potent on the very bottom end which is very useful for what me and my mates like. to be honest, i've never tried them in small cabs or tuned them higher. to be honest, to me, they don't really look like they'd follow a very fast intricate mid bass line very accurately. the moving parts are quite heavy and carry a lot of inertia in play. this is why the motor is so huge, to try and turn the moving parts around and back at the top and bottom of each cycle. to be honest they do follow tune information very well up to 50hz in the box's we've designed for them. this is quite interesting though as it highlights the difference in trends across the pond if u know what i mean. to me it seems that the US loves it's hard 40's, accurate 50's-60's and if it hits 30 within -3db thin its all good. now over here, u could count the number of really loud real streetbassers on one hand. england is tiny! all the streetbassers over hear are interested in 40hz to 20hz and if it hits 50 ok then it's all good. theirs an octave shift as u cross the atlantic:laugh:. this is possibly why the drivers have flopped in the US as u say.

you guys aren't gonna by a woofer that only likes the 30's down however if it's mentle, 30 and below, me and my mates will love it!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif we'll just get loads of front end with other drivers to play 40 up in the array. it's a shame that these woofers aren't liked in the US. they are definitely not xxx's but can be fcuking hammered alot harder! i love the sound from them in the 25-35hz range but i guess thats not what u guys get up for in the morning really. safe Henry:)

some magnetic fun with my HCCA!



 
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