Mag D2 Installed..

Why is the sub tilted that way? Is it because the cutout is messed up? If so that could be a big problem. I would also try putting some weather stripping on the sub. Second, why would you choose to put the port up there? Theres plenty of room next to the sub. If anything that could be the bigger problem because I dont see that much clearance for that port. The sub is fine the way its facing but if I were you I would build another box a little bigger and put the sub and port on the same side.

That is basically what i plan doing, making around 2.4cf with the sub and port firing in the same direction. Does the way the sub is tilted make any diff? i didn't think it did..no reason in paticular it is that way..

 
That is basically what i plan doing, making around 2.4cf with the sub and port firing in the same direction. Does the way the sub is tilted make any diff? i didn't think it did..no reason in paticular it is that way..
for trunk type cars its usually alot louder to have the sub facing outwards. It usually doesnt matter on what way you fire the port but in your certain setup it doesnt seem like there is much clearance. Firing upwards would probably have more cancelation issues. If you fire the sub towards the interior car you would have to seal the box completly from the trunk which is usually alot more work.

 
.27085...thats the port area i'm getting, i'm not sure if im calculating it right though. itook the 2 port walls, added them up, took that times the port width and times the height of the interior of the box

 
Its the port, and the box needs to be larger. I had an RE12 in a 2.0ft^3 @26hz, then I decided to change to a 1.5ft^3 box tuned to 32hz. Big difference, actually HUGE difference, but it was not good. There was WAY less low end and dramatically less output.

Bigger box and properly aimed port and you will be happy.

 
Why is the sub tilted that way? Is it because the cutout is messed up? If so that could be a big problem. I would also try putting some weather stripping on the sub.
OK for the part I agree with you... but weatherstripping???? Honestly, why would he need weather stripping when the entire mounting flange has a butyl gasket surrounding it?

Not trying to get on your case man, I just saw that, and it was bugging me, if there really is a good reason why he'd need weather stripping on top of a gasket, I'd like to hear it. (Seriously I would)

I too suggest a new box with 35^2 in of port, subs and port both facing b the back of your car. There's really no need in car to go below a 28hz tuning. (Unless you're using an RL-s) 2.5 cubes has been quite good to me. (Basicly I'm reccomending you the exact same box as me, but for 1 sub instead of 2. I get a TON of LOWEND.

 
I'm at work and can't really do numbers, but this would give you 40.5^2 in of port area, 2.4ft^3 internal volume and tune you to 34hz.

30"W x 15"H x 18"D with a 3" wide port with a port length of 32.59" This might boost your output, but I don't know where it will peak or roll off.

Although, the SI website recommends 2ft^3 tuned to 28hz.

 
I'm at work and can't really do numbers, but this would give you 40.5^2 in of port area, 2.4ft^3 internal volume and tune you to 34hz.
Althought the SI website recommends 2ft^3 tuned to 28hz. This might boost your output, but I don't know where it will peak or roll off.
... in general a 2.4 cu.ft., 34hz box with 40.5 in^2 of port should have more output than a 2 cubic foot 28hz box given that every thing else is the same. Granted that this depends on the resonant frequency of the car and a bunch of other little variables, but in general that's how it is.

EDIT: no pic when I relpied, so I had no idea WTF he was talking about.

 
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