What do you mean after box rise? And my voltage even at full tilt never gets below 13.4V, the fuse block just to the right of the amp is also a voltmeter. Before I add more amps I wanna get a HO alt and do a full Big 3, currently I just added 2 more runs of 4ga CCA wire to my front battery grounds. 1 to the strut tower, another to the engine block. Upgrading alternator positive is a lot more work than I care to do right now, the wire runs through some ****-near impossible places to get to.yea that sub will take more then the 1k easlily. i would get another amp and strap it. After box rise and voltage drop the sub will probly still be fine IMO. As of right now the amp is """rated"""" at 1200 rms @ 2ohm. after rise and voltage drop you probly seeing more like 600 watts RMS, especially since its daily for music so the power is going to flux. so my vote would be getting another amp and strapping it
Thank you, this is the type of input I was looking for.You've got a mid level sub in a ported enclosure. Without a total overhaul your more or less at your limits, switching subs without switching boxes or upping power is going to be a very modest gain at best. If your looking to gain on a meter that could be possible, gain to your ears, doubt it, best case scenario you gain a little bass in one area and lose a similar amount somewhere else, which you may or may not find "louder".
this is true..... from my exp with hdc3's which i run now, they will take WAY more then 1k rms... im working on a build that i will be putting about 3600rms to 1 hdc3 18Hdc3 and xfl are pretty much the same woofer
the amp is rated at 14.4v so anything below that will reduce the power alittle. Well even though you "wire" to 2 ohms, after there is a load in progress your 2ohm Impendence will go up, in other words "rise" to what ever. so even though you wire to 2ohm you possible could be rising to 4ohms or more will playingWhat do you mean after box rise? And my voltage even at full tilt never gets below 13.4V, the fuse block just to the right of the amp is also a voltmeter.
Just took the speaker wire out of the amp and it read 2.1 ohms. Like I said earlier, it never dips below 13.4 on full tilt. I think you're lowballing the amp a bit.the amp is rated at 14.4v so anything below that will reduce the power alittle. Well even though you "wire" to 2 ohms, after there is a load in progress your 2ohm Impendence will go up, in other words "rise" to what ever. so even though you wire to 2ohm you possible could be rising to 4ohms or more will playing
That's not playing .. Subs playing music is a whole diff story ... I suggest you read up there's some good threads on hereJust took the speaker wire out of the amp and it read 2.1 ohms. Like I said earlier, it never dips below 13.4 on full tilt. I think you're lowballing the amp a bit.
i guess i could have said this instead of trying to really explain it lolDo some reading. That 2 ohms is NOMINAL. The impedance will change with the different frequencies.
Hdc3 and xfl are pretty much the same woofer
Prolly between 1000/1200 clean after rise and voltage dropNow I gotta try and figure out how that works. It's gonna bother me if I don't... What do you estimate I would get for wattage if I switched to a dual 2 ohm sub? The amp is 1600W RMS@1 ohm.
i would estimate probly about 800-1000 @ 1ohm, because when you lower the impendence on an the efficiency goes down. Also on "SOME" notes/hz lvls not all, yes you might actually touch the 1600 watt rating but not all but i think it would average out to be around 800-1000Now I gotta try and figure out how that works. It's gonna bother me if I don't... What do you estimate I would get for wattage if I switched to a dual 2 ohm sub? The amp is 1600W RMS@1 ohm.
hm, we were thinking about the same, i said 800 - 1000 on averageProlly between 1000/1200 clean after rise and voltage drop