LOUD 6.5 component set that bleeds ears and sounds good one 100+rms?

I think I may end up simply buying a set of Selenium St350's supertweeters.

I will then remove my PG rsd tweets and components, throw 4 RSD 6.5's in the doors and one ST350 in each door aswell. That way I wouldnt have to buy a single thing but the tweeters and build pods. I could continue to use my 4 chanel to give the rsd's about 65rms a piece. And I have a lower end 2 chanel that pumps 150rms bridged @ 4ohm. So 2 St350's would be getting 75 rms each which is perfect for them

Just gonna do some more research on the st350's

Does anyone have any experience on them? Do they still play vocals/singing etc well?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=264-362&vReviewShow=1&&vReviewPage=2&vReviewRand=7520607#reviews

 
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13969_Infinity+Kappa+60.9cs.html#

These are 1 step up from what i got and mine are clear and loud as ****... i highly recommend you try them regardless of what others might say

Most Best Buys have a set of these or similar setup and you can listen to them in person... just make sure you listen to a kappa or perfect series speaker, and not a POS Reference series //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13969_Infinity+Kappa+60.9cs.html#
These are 1 step up from what i got and mine are clear and loud as ****... i highly recommend you try them regardless of what others might say

Most Best Buys have a set of these or similar setup and you can listen to them in person... just make sure you listen to a kappa or perfect series speaker, and not a POS Reference series //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
Those are really nice and loud! I had the infinity 60.9. Then I got the infinity perfects 6.1 which are way louder and better sounding.

 
the words 100W and ear bleeding is kinda silly,100watts aint shit

You want ear bleading try 300W or more //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Id prefer stay away from Infinity products, havent had luck in the past at all with them

St350's are on my mind though, 2 of them. 4 of them if I feel like fixing the kicker amp and using it to power them all

 
Many years ago,I wanted the loudest ,most shrill tweeter in my 76' Grand Prix anniversary Edition.In 81' I had them all...Phillips,Seas,Becker...they kept blowing.Back then,they actually wound and put the capacitors when they did 3-way systems.Today we have it made.Back then you had to have someone who knew enough math to design a crossover.My right tweeter kept blowing,so ,I got desperate ,went to Radio Shack(they used to sell car-audio)if that's what you call it and found my tweeter fix.A Piezzo Tweeter horn looking thing that would handle 150 rms @4 ohms and would go to 60K hz.That tweeter was so shrill,it would cut you in 1/2.They were like $4.99 ea.I bought 3 of them ,blew one of them.I'm not sure if they were for home or car audio but at 4 ohms I knew it would work.The doors had a 6.5"mid-bass/a 4" speaker and a 1 1/2" tweeter and 2 10" free-air mounted Pyle Drivers,the original ones.Alpine 4 channel amp /and an Alpine 2 channel amp(100 rms per channel) I may have forgotten .My claim to fame was my head unit...Alpine 7307 cassette deck-pre-amp unit with a digital-time delay unit.the source unit sold in 1981 for $565.00,it had the sendust head,cro2 oxide capabilities.NO AUTO REVERSE..The real sound quality units didn't sport the auto-reverse,and a transport system that was smooth as butter.Sometimes,the solution is simple,sometimes not.Thanks for letting me go down memory lane..Alpine had just come on the scene in 1980...Alpine50

 
Go buy you some Infinity Reference Series speakers http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=REF6022I&cat=REF&ser=REF&Language=ENG&Country=US&Region=USA

I have four and they get LOUD while still very clear sounding running on a Rockford Fosgate P400-4 amp. It's been almost a year since I installed them and they have taken everything I have thrown at them without any troubles. They also have a switch that can run the tweeter at normal or at a 3 db boost. I play a very wide variety of music from the old to the new and they sound great.

 
8" seleniums will provde plenty of mid range

35648816.jpg


I would LOVE to know if I need to purchase the bass stoppers based off of there 4 ohm spec, or there 8ohm spec. Im assuming I need to go by the 4ohm spec since thats the load the amp see, but am not sure, since the drivers are 8ohm. so I can place my order Id like to get that out of the way.

 
8" seleniums will provde plenty of mid range
35648816.jpg


I would LOVE to know if I need to purchase the bass stoppers based off of there 4 ohm spec, or there 8ohm spec. Im assuming I need to go by the 4ohm spec since thats the load the amp see, but am not sure, since the drivers are 8ohm. so I can place my order Id like to get that out of the way.
your ****ing kidding me right?? yes caps will reduce bass, god thats going to sound like poop...

 
you need a new hobby. buying BS only to be loud..you don't like music that much is apperant.. with that much power any decent midrange will be loud ESP active. your going to ruin audio for everybody..
Buying Bs? Theres alot of people on here running ST350's and say they sound extremely good. Havent heard a single bad review by anyone whos owned them actually.

And to the post above, what do you mean? Why would it sound like poop. Im trying to cut the "poop" frequencies out like everyone is telling me, I guess shooting for a 5000hz crossover point on the ST350's, and thats how they have to be wired. I dont get why you feel the need to bash instead of maybe explaining why you would say that.

Can I get some help on the 4ohm 8ohm quesiton I posted 3 posts above please, its got me stumped

 
if you got some really well designed mids 100 is enough to cause hering damage when there ran active... you need to learn about imaging.. if you have to cross the tweeter that high your going to make the mid play that high and very few mid do well that high while sounding good.. the best mids don't need to exceed 4khz.. many good tweeters easily play down to 2500..

as for the caps,you need one per driver, and you need to go off the dcr of the driver. also the cap needs to be rated close to the voltage of the amps output. if you wat a decent "bass blocker" go to parts express and get you some goods caps..

 
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