looking to add midbass

so what you are saying is i should make a 3/4" mdf ring and mount the ring on the outside of the door panel and then mount the speaker, and with the baffle the magnet should fit in through the existing hole? should i also fiberglass the door panel from behind for extra strength?
Were saying you have some cutting to do... also your door can never be strong enough //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif do all that you can in terms of bracing and damping. Fiberglassing behind is a great idea... If you can use MDF for bracing as well great (cheaper too)!

 
Were saying you have some cutting to do... also your door can never be strong enough //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif do all that you can in terms of bracing and damping. Fiberglassing behind is a great idea... If you can use MDF for bracing as well great (cheaper too)!

but if i mount the mid and mdf ring on the outside of the panel, where you can see it inside the car, i wouldn't have to make the hole that much bigger right? plus i have all the supplies to fiberglass. then should i deaden the hole door panel and seal off the outer doorskin?

 
but if i mount the mid and mdf ring on the outside of the panel, where you can see it inside the car, i wouldn't have to make the hole that much bigger right? plus i have all the supplies to fiberglass. then should i deaden the hole door panel and seal off the outer doorskin?
well you would still need to make a hole -- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=295-364&DID=7 is the ideal driver unless you don't like a detialed sound -- in which case a vifa with a poly cone at about $50-60 wouldn't cost that much more and still sound good... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

If you run into troubles with mounting depth you can gain a little over an inch by removing the shielding cup and bucking magnet... I already have a very nice design with that driver and the dayton RS tweeter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
well you would still need to make a hole -- http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=295-364&DID=7 is the ideal driver unless you don't like a detialed sound -- in which case a vifa with a poly cone at about $50-60 wouldn't cost that much more and still sound good... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
If you run into troubles with mounting depth you can gain a little over an inch by removing the shielding cup and bucking magnet... I already have a very nice design with that driver and the dayton RS tweeter //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

well i have a set of boston acoustic pro 6.5's i think i'll mount in my doors now. the mounting diameter is 5" and the opening in my door is 4.25" so i won't have to cut too much.

 
well i have a set of boston acoustic pro 6.5's i think i'll mount in my doors now. the mounting diameter is 5" and the opening in my door is 4.25" so i won't have to cut too much.
that works //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif those BAs are nice -- not in the same league as the dayton drivers //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif but still great nontheless

 
so what you are saying is i should make a 3/4" mdf ring and mount the ring on the outside of the door panel and then mount the speaker, and with the baffle the magnet should fit in through the existing hole? should i also fiberglass the door panel from behind for extra strength?

I don’t know if have taken your door panels off yet. But just the cosmetic grill might be mounted to the door skin. Take your door panel off. I wouldn’t be surprised if the speaker is actually mounted to the steel part of the door.

If I were you, I would look into mounting the speaker to the metal part of your door, not the plastic. Make those MDF baffles to space the speaker off the metal part of the door so they just clear the underside of the plastic grill. You won’t need to reinforce the plastic; maybe just some sound deadening is you want.

If you want to keep the stock look, you could even oversize the speaker larger than the grill and have it overlap the grill slightly (go 6-1/2”). It’s not ideal (since your blocking part of the speaker) but again you keep the stock look.

 
I don’t know if have taken your door panels off yet. But just the cosmetic grill might be mounted to the door skin. Take your door panel off. I wouldn’t be surprised if the speaker is actually mounted to the steel part of the door.
If I were you, I would look into mounting the speaker to the metal part of your door, not the plastic. Make those MDF baffles to space the speaker off the metal part of the door so they just clear the underside of the plastic grill. You won’t need to reinforce the plastic; maybe just some sound deadening is you want.

If you want to keep the stock look, you could even oversize the speaker larger than the grill and have it overlap the grill slightly (go 6-1/2”). It’s not ideal (since your blocking part of the speaker) but again you keep the stock look.

the speaker is attached to the plastic panel and not the metal doorskin.

 
pull a gcadidas and do what is linked in my signature under koda pods. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

you could not even imagine the mess i would have if i tried to make fiberglass pods like that. the magnet on my BA's fits through that hole in my door it's just the basket i'm worried about. i'll just extend outwards till it fits. might do i little fiberglassing, but not much.

 
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