Looking for budget 6.5" comp set in the $200 price range.

Any options I should consider besides the PHD 6.1 PRO KIT for around $300 ( I believe they cost more than 300 but I'm a little flexible) If you didn't read the original post update I just ordered a 200x2 rms Boston acoustics amp so I can pretty much go with anything.

Other brands I am looking at and would like opinions on are

CDT

HAT

MOREL

IMAGE DYNAMICS

anything you guys can come up with?

 
At this point these are the options I'm looking at. Which set do you guys think would meet what I'm looking for?

HAT Unity U61-2, $399

PHD 6.1 PRO KIT, $300 - $400ish?

Morel Tempo 6, $329

Image Dynamics - CXS64 V2, $299

Hertz ESK-165L.5, $280

( there is also a ESK - 165.5 set for same price, what's the difference and is this set better than the ESK high energy set? )

Now the Hertz set is 120 cheaper than the Hat's but if there is not a huge difference I would obviously prefer to spend less if possible. However I am willing to spend a little more if it's worth it.

 
Hertz isn't supposed to be sold online at all, so I'd be wary of those options unless you're buying locally. Honestly, none of these options are bad. Based on your amplifier thread we listen to some of the same bands, and for me I need a metal dome tweeter to make the midrange and treble pop out like live music. I'm not certain, but I believe all of those sets have silk dome tweeters. I still think for a lower cost good set JBL MS-62C should be in consideration. It's $299, but it's been selling for much less online.

You're going to have to be conservative with your high pass filter with a 200x2 amp. Instead of pounding the **** out of them at 50-60 Hz I recommend 80 Hz, 24 dB/octave, or a higher frequency if you have to use a lower slope. Sound deadening is going to be a must to make any of these speakers sound great in your doors. I applied vibration damper, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl on the inner side of the door and bagged pink fiberglass insulation is placed inside the door cavity for absorption. Some doors really require a lot of attention, others, not as much.

 
I could sell you a set of BNIB Alpine SPX17PRO's for $350 shipped. I listen to a lot of metal and rock also and loved how it all sounded on these when I auditioned them at a local shop.

 
Hertz isn't supposed to be sold online at all, so I'd be wary of those options unless you're buying locally. Honestly, none of these options are bad. Based on your amplifier thread we listen to some of the same bands, and for me I need a metal dome tweeter to make the midrange and treble pop out like live music. I'm not certain, but I believe all of those sets have silk dome tweeters. I still think for a lower cost good set JBL MS-62C should be in consideration. It's $299, but it's been selling for much less online.
You're going to have to be conservative with your high pass filter with a 200x2 amp. Instead of pounding the **** out of them at 50-60 Hz I recommend 80 Hz, 24 dB/octave, or a higher frequency if you have to use a lower slope. Sound deadening is going to be a must to make any of these speakers sound great in your doors. I applied vibration damper, closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl on the inner side of the door and bagged pink fiberglass insulation is placed inside the door cavity for absorption. Some doors really require a lot of attention, others, not as much.
I am going to dampen the doors very well and seal up as many of the holes as I can. I will be careful with the gains and I do plan on HP at 80hz. My Hu is a Pioneer 80prs so I have good active xo's on it so will run the amp full range. I believe the xo on my HU is 12db slope. As far as the JBL'S go I have read good reviews on them but some people say they can't handle the power of the lower model the p600. Is that true? The MS is only rated at 90 rms.

You may be right about tweets. The best sounding speakers I have ever heard in my life by far were the Focal Polykevlar's. My buddy used to have them in his Silverado. They were freaking amazing but VERY EXPENSIVE. I think he paid like $750 for the set or something.

BTW, I may actually HP my set a little lower like at 60 or so until I get my subs. When I get my subs I will run the LP 80 then my comps HP 80. I'll baby all my gear though. I plan on investing a good amount of money in the equipment and install. I want my system to last me for years to come.

 
I am going to dampen the doors very well and seal up as many of the holes as I can.
This can make for an audible improvement, but in my experience the outcome was dwarfed by putting up a sound barrier(the mass loaded vinyl with closed cell foam as a gasket) and also by adding the fiberglass for absorption. I recommend you very strongly consider doing all of these steps.

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I will be careful with the gains and I do plan on HP at 80hz. My Hu is a Pioneer 80prs so I have good active xo's on it so will run the amp full range. I believe the xo on my HU is 12db slope.
With a 12 dB slope you may need a higher crossover frequency. There's still a lot of output below 80 Hz with a 12 dB slope.

As far as the JBL'S go I have read good reviews on them but some people say they can't handle the power of the lower model the p600. Is that true? The MS is only rated at 90 rms.
While I have not used either of these sets, they're rated only 10W RMS apart. MS-62C is 80W RMS, while P660C is 90W RMS. A few people have had one of the tinsel leads break on their MS-62C sets. I don't know under what conditions this failure occurred, but it's possibly it's from abuse by testing the limits on the low end. With a safe crossover setting you can maximize the output and lifespan of the speaker and increase power handling while minimizing excursion. Another good side effect of minimizing excursion is reduced distortion.

 
This can make for an audible improvement, but in my experience the outcome was dwarfed by putting up a sound barrier(the mass loaded vinyl with closed cell foam as a gasket) and also by adding the fiberglass for absorption. I recommend you very strongly consider doing all of these steps.
Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

With a 12 dB slope you may need a higher crossover frequency. There's still a lot of output below 80 Hz with a 12 dB slope.

While I have not used either of these sets, they're rated only 10W RMS apart. MS-62C is 80W RMS, while P660C is 90W RMS. A few people have had one of the tinsel leads break on their MS-62C sets. I don't know under what conditions this failure occurred, but it's possibly it's from abuse by testing the limits on the low end. With a safe crossover setting you can maximize the output and lifespan of the speaker and increase power handling while minimizing excursion. Another good side effect of minimizing excursion is reduced distortion.
Can you explain how to do the foam gasket? Is that basically like a box for the midwoofer using foam or something? I don't really get it but I want to do everything in my power to get the absolute most out of my speakers. I want really great sq and loudness.

 
I found the JBL MS-62 set for $218.95 shipped. I think I am just gonna go ahead and order them. The JBL's paired with the Boston Acoustics GT-2200 I ordered today will only run me a total of $408.95 leaving me with plenty of money to get some sound dampener, amp wire kit, and the foam stuff. I need to learn how to do the foam stuff and how to properly seal up the holes in the door. Do I use like Butyl rubber stuff to seal up the holes then use dynamat over it or what?

 
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