Looking at a first-time "serious" build.

[mahc 10+ year member]

That's what I expect from audio elitists.

The skar dual 12" pre-built keeps up with the dual JL 12w6 subs in custom enclosures. How do I know? I own both. Definitely not the same unique sound the JLs produce, but they do the job. $700 vs $2500.

I guess you haven't learned the simple rule, of the law of diminishing return. Throw up another meme instead of replying with some intelligence and logic.

My system is far from your $6k and you talk of diminishing return?

JL is **** and so is Skar. Stop failing, boy.

 

[Cee]

My system is far from your $6k and you talk of diminishing return?

JL is **** and so is Skar. Stop failing, boy.

Wow. I didn't know Canadians got so angry. I frequently go to Saskatchewan, nothing but polite there.

Both my auto's have advanced power upgrades. One for winches and bumper crane, the other to connect to a camper, or for power in remote areas in general, and for all the equipment we use when we chase tornadoes. Those would have been done with or without an upgraded audio system, and contributed to much of the overall cost.

I'm on the low end of cost vs many here. That ultimate JL box with the two subs is being sold over the winter to help fund my engine rebuild. I just can't justify breaking that law of diminishing return anymore, lol, and with the new power train I won't be able to enjoy subs as the engine/exhaust decibels will exceed the system itself at most times.

I get crapping on Skar, especially for someone that's never tuned a good skar setup in the trunk because of some name brand hate. The JL insult is a bit more, confusing, and ridiculous.

 

[Cee]

Let's get back at helping Garrett. So drop the hate.

 

[mahc 10+ year member]

Let's get back at helping Garrett. So drop the hate.

Yes, now I feel real bad of calling someone with ze's estrogen levels off the charts a boy.

 

[Garrett Morgan]

You'd need at least $300 in sound deadening alone for a 09. The doors on these are awful for sound, worse than most. Not much wiring to tape up quiet but one giant hole and super thin metal to deal with. The floors almost as bad until later models, after 2011, with better factory soundproofing. Rear hatch and cargo area very easy to quiet.

I've heard nothing about the head unit, amp integration or a subbox. Those can get spendy. Does your crv have a factory navigation screen?
Is there a subwoofer under your passenger seat?
Do you have speaker grills or cover for factory dash locations?
Are you using a PAC/Stinger wire harness, or a iDatalink adapter?
Mainly what's the source? I'm guessing not a bose factory system. And how will you be integrating the amps in? Aftermarket HU already installed?

If you plan on keeping that 09 for some time, hold off on equipment and sound deaden the entire thing first.

For subs and sub amps go Skar. Whether a basshead or not, it's the best option to save money for more the important components. I've had JLs best subs and I've had skar subs. I could only tell the difference, or hear any major differences, when subs were used in a pass through system where the subs are actually in the cabin and facing forward. For trunk or hatchback subs more properly placed and tuned, I could tell zero difference. What I'm saying is you don't need big bucks to get loud quality bass, if there is such thing.

The majority of build budget, unless you're a total basshead and only care about SPL, should be going into the front theater.

You had a lot to add, and I appreciate it. (In retrospect, before I post this, I'm realizing I've a lot to say, sorry)

Edit: It seems like sound deadening is super important, so would you think that installing my HU and buying only the speakers and sound deadening would work out? The radio only puts out something like 22rms, but those are 100w speakers. Add the amp in later, and the sub after that? Do you have a particular type, brand, or material to recommend? How would you spread that ~$300 over the car?

I've got an (quite) old Kenwood HU, it's a HD545u, but it's served me well in a couple of my previous cars, as well as my older brother's (I got his HU and Polk 6x9s and 5" speakers from him when he left for the Marine Corps, but I wanna say he bought those 2008-2010). I just plan on using that to start with. It's got 6 channel outputs, front, rear, and sub, so my plan was to just go from it to an amp.

I'm going from my 2010 Fusion that I upgraded with Alpine 6x8s in the doors, I added my Polk 6x9s in the rear deck (just wired them into the wiring for the rear speakers), and kept the factory tweeters. I really enjoyed this system, even though I'm certain the factory radio didn't actually push any of those speakers properly. It also had like little built in speaker housings in the door from the factory. It really did sound full, had some real depth, and I could actually feel the bass from those 6x9s in my chest.

The CR-V is just awful in comparison. It's only got the basic sound package, and the basic AM/FM single disk radio, so no tweeters, and no sub. The system is quiet, the bass roll off and EQ is just bad no matter how much I try to tinker with the radio's EQ or balance my EQ out from spotify (I primarily use Spotify through my phone, though I have a select few CDs I like).

I know sound deadening is so important, but I'm selling my Fusion, and I think I'll be lucky to make $1k profit, and whatever I make out of it is my budget for my new audio. I'm thinking about skipping out on the sub for now too, and just getting an amp to go with the composite and coaxial speakers.

As for sub enclosure, whether I do the sub sooner or later, my step-dad has a mostly full work space in his garage that I could very easily just get some wood and carpet to make a basic sealed box (though I've seen about adding things inside the enclosure, I'm not sure how popular that is). I've been planning on trying to put an amp under one of the rear seats, and a vertical sub box across the trunk, behind the seats.
Edit: I'm thinking about going for an open air subwoofer, so I can install it in one of the side panels of the trunk, for a little bit more low-key of a look.

I just got the CR-V from an elderly family member, so it's in good shape, and I plan to drive it until there's some sort of catastrophic damage. I think I can deal with having imperfect, but better sound than what I've got now.

Edit 2: I'm seeing things like 1mm-2mm thick, and around 25% coverage at the bare minimum (I'm really fine with the bare minimum), but not sure how accurate that is really kinda looking at just doing the doors and hatch at the moment. But I'm also seeing people (seemingly super comprehensive builds) that are deadening pretty much as much of the doors and other areas as they physically can. Though, it seems like Amazon Basics is solid, for a pretty darn good price.

Are there any liners that you'd recommend more while I'm still kinda shopping?

 

[Old_Slapper]

Edit: I guess for whatever reason, the links don't actually work.

What are your thoughts on 5 channel amps? It seems like it could help reign in the budget and foot print a bit.

For instance the Precision A1000.5D
~200
- 4 ohms - 60w x4 + 250w
- 2 ohms - 100w x4 + 450w

Or for roughly the same price (I think) of running two amps:
NVX VAD11005
~$320
- 4-ohms 80w x4 + 350w
- 2-ohms 125 x4 + 600w

I'm also looking at the 5 channel amps and realizing that I don't really think I need to be pushing the speakers all the way, and that even pushing them at 60-80w is still going to be a vast improvement, and a good experience.

This kinda effects my sub choices a bit, and trying to shop by price, and with how few people leave reviews, it's kinda hard.


JL 12" SVC 4-ohm 75-300w RMS, 600 peak | ~$150
I think this one works well with the Precision

Kicker 12" DVC 2-ohm 150-400w RMS, 800 peak (wired series for 4 ohms) | ~$130
I worry a bit about this one with the Precision, seems like it may be underpowered, seems fine with the NVX

Kicker 12" DVC 4-ohm 500w RMS, 1000 peak (wired parallel for 2 ohms) | ~$145
I think this is solid for the Precision, and I'd need to watch the gain with the NVX

Pioneer 12" DVC 4-ohm 600w TMS, 2000 peak (wired parallel for 2 ohms) | ~$180
Seems like a solid pick for the NVX, but I'll be honest, this is only because it's the cheapest on Crutchfield, and the budget is just bad.

Alpine 12" DVC 4-ohm 600w RMS, 1800 peak (wired parallel for 2 ohms) | ~$220
Seems like the better choice of the two, and I've liked my Alpine (Coaxial) speakers in the past, but is like the next cheapest on Crutchfield.

I think This Crutchfield kit works with both, 4 gauge, up to 1100w, with the proper fuses.

Five channel amps are great. If you are looking to save space, then a 5ch is the way to go. I have the Precision Power PC1000.4D in my truck. I love it. It has a little more power than the A1000.4D.

The NVX amp is a good amp. Reliability is still unknown, but it is a China made amp. Korean amps are well known for being more reliable, and that is where the Precision Power amps are made.

For subwoofers, I would recommend one 12" sub in a ported box. A ported box is about the same size as a sealed box for 2-12" subs, but is louder than 2-12" subs in a sealed box.

As for the brand, I have a 12" NVX in my son's truck. I'm not finished with the install, but I heard it in other, and it sounded pretty darn good.

For a sub, check out the Fosgate 12" P3 dual 4 ohm sub. It pushes a lot of air for a $200 600 watt sub.

 

[Garrett Morgan]

Five channel amps are great. If you are looking to save space, then a 5ch is the way to go. I have the Precision Power PC1000.4D in my truck. I love it. It has a little more power than the A1000.4D.

The NVX amp is a good amp. Reliability is still unknown, but it is a China made amp. Korean amps are well known for being more reliable, and that is where the Precision Power amps are made.

For subwoofers, I would recommend one 12" sub in a ported box. A ported box is about the same size as a sealed box for 2-12" subs, but is louder than 2-12" subs in a sealed box.

As for the brand, I have a 12" NVX in my son's truck. I'm not finished with the install, but I heard it in other, and it sounded pretty darn good.

For a sub, check out the Fosgate 12" P3 dual 4 ohm sub. It pushes a lot of air for a $200 600 watt sub.

After looking at what I'm working with space-wise, I'm really leaning towards the PC1000.5D, seems like a pretty good pick there. If I'm getting this right, my door speakers being rated for 100w rms, but driven by 60w leaves me a pretty good amount of headroom without damaging the speakers, and the same with the 600w driven at 450w?
Is having the amp rated lower, but working harder more of the time the way to go? Is this where speaker sensitivity comes into play?

Again, thank you so deeply for all of the input/advice.