Line Out Converter issues

[Savan]

Okay so here's my setup...

2011 Toyota Corolla.

I started with everything stock and base. No pre-existing factory amplifiers or fancy stereo.

Using Factory stereo to 6 channel Line Out Converter (AudioControl LC7i). Then from the LOC to 4 channel Amp (Rockford Fosgate R400-4D) and Mono channel Amp (Rockford Fosgate R500X1D). Then from the amps to the respective speakers.

My issue is that when I have everything wired up properly, the speakers are getting a lot of static and random popping, like really loud random popping. Also, the music will be very very quiet and distorted at all volume levels. If I turn the volume up, it will randomly spike REALLY loud but will mainly stay at the same quiet volume level with more distortion and more popping and more static.

I have tested the amps by disconnecting the LOC and plugging in an RCA - auxiliary cable straight from the amp to my phone and it works fine. I also tried to bypass the amps/LOC stack and directly connected the wires from the stereo straight to the speakers using temporary electrical tape and it all works fine. So I am confident that all of my wiring from the stereo and my wiring to each speaker

is good, and that my amps are in good condition as well. It is evident, to me, that the LOC is the problem.

What I want to know is if there is something I am missing with the LOC install, anything else that could be causing this issue, or if I need to install something else as well to make this work. There is the potential that the LOC is faulty, but before I request an exchange I would like to cover all other possibilities of error from my end. The instructions didn't specify needing anything else.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

simple. Never use audiocontrol line out convertors. Return it and Get a proper head unit instead.

@Boomin_tahoe look another LOC victim

 

[Savan]

The point, though, is to keep my stock head unit to maintain the stock look. Any other advice you can offer? Perhaps a different method in which I can maintain my stock head unit without using an AudioControl LOC?

 

[wingless]

Here is the Owner's Manual for the AudioControl LC7i.

Has it been properly wired w/ +12V continuous power, terminal 4, ground, terminal 3 and an active-high amp enable signal, terminal 5? Has the pass-though amp enable output signal been wired to the external amplifier, terminal 6? Is the GTO jumper on the Defeat position?

Does the red Power LED illuminate when the system is on?

Does the setup use the AudioControl LC7i Accu-Bass to feed the subwoofer amplifier, instead of a dedicated sub feed from the head unit?

 

[Jcsaudio]

The JL Audio Fix 86 would work in interfacing with your stock radio and it will undo the factory EQ and it has some basic EQ adjustments as well.

 

[Savan]

Here is the Owner's Manual for the AudioControl LC7i.
Has it been properly wired w/ +12V continuous power, terminal 4, ground, terminal 3 and an active-high amp enable signal, terminal 5? Has the pass-though amp enable output signal been wired to the external amplifier, terminal 6? Is the GTO jumper on the Defeat position?

Does the red Power LED illuminate when the system is on?

Does the setup use the AudioControl LC7i Accu-Bass to feed the subwoofer amplifier, instead of a dedicated sub feed from the head unit?

Yes it's all been wired properly and I am getting power. I know this for sure because I am using the gto system to tell my amps to turn on and they do turn on and off as they should. Therefore, the gto is not switched to defeat.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

The point, though, is to keep my stock head unit to maintain the stock look. Any other advice you can offer? Perhaps a different method in which I can maintain my stock head unit without using an AudioControl LOC?

the stock stereo is boring anyways, get a double din touchscreen to liven things up. My buddy has a 2010 corolla and it definitely is 100x better looking with a touch screen not to mention the sound is 100x better. You can always keep the stock head unit and pop it back in when you sell the car. The stock head unit looks old and yucky aesthetics wise anyways.

The stock head unit has a sh*tty built in EQ curve and aggressive high pass filter to compensate for garbage factory speakers. When you line out convert that same signal, its applied to ALL your aftermarket equipment. Not to mention the inherent internals aka digital audio convertors of the head unit are 12-16 bit junk as well which is bad sound and dirty signal from the start. Bad source = bad system no matter how good the rest of your gear is.

a proper head unit will give you the ability to not only obtain a clean unfiltered signal, but also much better sound from the start because they are built with a quality 24 bit DAC. Then you have other tuning options such as 13 bands of Eq, time alignment(makes all the soundwaves from each speaker in your car reach your ear at the same time creating a live studio concert experience on your dash.

 

[Savan]

The JL Audio Fix 86 would work in interfacing with your stock radio and it will undo the factory EQ and it has some basic EQ adjustments as well.

This is a good thought, but a bit out of my price range. I'm not really looking for anything extreme but i also didn't want one of those cheap LOC's either. That's why I picked the AudioControl one, because it was kind of the middle ground. Is there another device within that $100-150 price range that you'd suggest using instead of the AudioControl?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This is a good thought, but a bit out of my price range. I'm not really looking for anything extreme but i also didn't want one of those cheap LOC's either. That's why I picked the AudioControl one, because it was kind of the middle ground. Is there another device within that $100-150 price range that you'd suggest using instead of the AudioControl?

If you dont want a touch screen, a double din non touch screen head unit will be in that price range, with all dash kit and wiring harness included.

 

[Savan]

the stock stereo is boring anyways, get a double din touchscreen to liven things up. My buddy has a 2010 corolla and it definitely is 100x better looking with a touch screen not to mention the sound is 100x better. You can always keep the stock head unit and pop it back in when you sell the car. The stock head unit looks old and yucky aesthetics wise anyways.
The stock head unit has a sh*tty built in EQ curve and aggressive high pass filter to compensate for garbage factory speakers. When you line out convert that same signal, its applied to ALL your aftermarket equipment. Not to mention the inherent internals aka digital audio convertors of the head unit are 12-16 bit junk as well which is bad sound and dirty signal from the start. Bad source = bad system no matter how good the rest of your gear is.

a proper head unit will give you the ability to not only obtain a clean unfiltered signal, but also much better sound from the start because they are built with a quality 24 bit DAC. Then you have other tuning options such as 13 bands of Eq, time alignment(makes all the soundwaves from each speaker in your car reach your ear at the same time creating a live studio concert experience on your dash.

This is exactly what I was aiming to do initially, but after adding in the idatalink for the stearing wheel controls and whatever else I will need, it was just come out to be crazy expensive. I mean, I know you get what you pay for. But we're talking $120 that I paid for the AudioControl, versus almost $650 to get the head unit I was initially looking into.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

This is exactly what I was aiming to do initially, but after adding in the idatalink for the stearing wheel controls and whatever else I will need, it was just come out to be crazy expensive. I mean, I know you get what you pay for. But we're talking $120 that I paid for the AudioControl, versus almost $650 to get the head unit I was initially looking into.

Return that audiocontrol and get a temporary head unit instead. The dash kit will be included and wiring harness so you can recycle those when you upgrade to a better head unit.

This would do wonders compared to the audiocontrol ghetto fix. 3 pairs of 4 volt pre-outs, 13 band eq, time alignment, active network mode all packed in one.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130S701BS/Pioneer-FH-S701BS.html?tp=5684

You can resell the head unit for a decent amount of money easier than that audiocontrol.

Its a much smarter upgrade path since you get a lot of stuff done with MUCH better results.

I wouldnt worry about the idatalink stuff until you get a touch screen later, its not really necessary at all compared to having a properly sounding system that works flawlessly.

 

[Savan]

Return that audiocontrol and get a temporary head unit instead. The dash kit will be included and wiring harness so you can recycle those when you upgrade to a better head unit.
This would do wonders compared to the audiocontrol ghetto fix. 3 pairs of 4 volt pre-outs, 13 band eq, time alignment, active network mode all packed in one.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130S701BS/Pioneer-FH-S701BS.html?tp=5684

You can resell the head unit for a decent amount of money easier than that audiocontrol.

Its a much smarter upgrade path since you get a lot of stuff done with MUCH better results.

I wouldnt worry about the idatalink stuff until you get a touch screen later, its not really necessary at all compared to having a properly sounding system that works flawlessly.

My issue with changing the head unit was actually with the microphone for Bluetooth. I currently have the 2nd tier stereo option that Toyota offers. It's better than the base, but it's not a full screen with GPS and all that. It's in the middle and it adds the Bluetooth functionality. I was told a while back that if I upgrade the head unit to aftermarket, I would lose functionality of my nicely integrated microphone, and instead would have to use the one that comes with the aftermarket head unit, which would clip onto my visor or wherever. Is it possible to use my integrated microphone and bluetooth module? Or do I have to use the microphone that comes with the aftermarket stereo?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

My issue with changing the head unit was actually with the microphone for Bluetooth. I currently have the 2nd tier stereo option that Toyota offers. It's better than the base, but it's not a full screen with GPS and all that. It's in the middle and it adds the Bluetooth functionality. I was told a while back that if I upgrade the head unit to aftermarket, I would lose functionality of my nicely integrated microphone, and instead would have to use the one that comes with the aftermarket head unit, which would clip onto my visor or wherever. Is it possible to use my integrated microphone and bluetooth module? Or do I have to use the microphone that comes with the aftermarket stereo?

That should be of no issue at all, just use the aftermarket bluetooth mic. It can be double sided taped somewhere thats not visible to others if thats your main issue.

There's no reason to even consider keeping the factory bluetooth mic's functionality when you have an aftermarket setup with a better mic.

gotta weigh your options, do you want your setup to sound good or do you want to nitpick about useless stuff and have a crappy sounding audio system?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Listen to Jeff. You want those problems/issues to go away, all the annoying noises that WE have experienced and gone thru, your best bet is a aftermarket HU and get rid of that converter. Just makes more headaches for ya. Take another Advil.

 

[Savan]

Listen to Jeff. You want those problems/issues to go away, all the annoying noises that WE have experienced and gone thru, your best bet is a aftermarket HU and get rid of that converter. Just makes more headaches for ya. Take another Advil.

Yeah I'm sold. Thanks guys. I'll be shopping for a new HU now and sending back the converter. Just need to find a good one that let's me add SWI. That's been difficult without going up to a touch screen model.