Lanzar HTG668BT 4000w amp fired? Or?

Yea, I have a 460w 300w RMS Dual on 8g and later added 1000w 500w RMS pioneer that I had to return because it was over heating to the point of burning me without going into protection mode and only after 15-20 minutes of mid volume playing. That was on the 4g later added.
I plan on upgrading to 0g and trunk battery, also a hi-output alternator and big 3 upgrade.

My system was breaking my interior panels and cracked my windshield and broke my review before the pioneer went bad. My box is a 36hrz dual slot ported box, that's what the guy said that I bought it from anyway. Paid $50 for it from Facebook marketplace​.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif

 
Awesomeness, I'll do a pic with LxWxD n port lenght n demetions in the morning, it does seem rather bigger than boxes I looked at online but idk. I pretty much a completely newbie to all this stuff but I like to consider myself to either be well informed, or in the process of schooling myself... I'm very good at hooking stuff up(50+ systems thrown together that to my ear sounded excellent... But the last 2 months have been a worlwind of terms terms and etc I didn't know even existed or mattered... I got about $1000 coming in a few weeks to make my system pound hard, relyibly, and with that amount of budget... So far I been looking at tho sound stream subs, 1000w rms dvc at $160 each on sale... Or some pioneer type R 15s... xs 900 series battery, 50 ft role of 0g ofc, and 2 or 3 1000w to 1500w rms 1ohm amps. Idk if I can accomplish what I want with 4x subs I may need to go up to 6... But I wanna try completing in an ametur bass comp. Idk what exactly this entails but I know since I went up to 4 12s and am back to 2 I am unhappy and am fiending for bass like I used to fiend for heroin... Lol 2 1/2 yrs clean and in college for engineering now tho I may switch to electrical engineering as my major. I just know I must be involved with pretty and loud cars... Thx for yals advice so far, it's all very much appreciated...
Luckily you stumbled on the site where people actually get loud and know the best low budget setups to recommend you. I know money is tough, we all know whats the best bang for buck so seriously, just run purchasing decisions to the forum before wasting money again and again.

As an engineer, you must have taken some physics classes, everything having to do with sound, audio, wave reflections, phase cancelations etc will serve you best here. Along with reading everything about the basics first.

Basic Car Audio Electronics

As for your setup, save that 1000 dollars and dont buy anything yet until you are WAAAAY more educated i mean you have A LOT of catching up to do bud, you dont know the first thing about proper system design sad to say. Soundstream subs are junk dont even bother. here is where the competitors shop for big boy gear that actually wins competitions.

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/

https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/

 
While I strongly disagree about cracked windshields from a single or even a few drivers, it sounds like you have multiple issues going on with perhaps a big issue going on....in other words, you say you have a bad battery, which could lead into more issues with your amps/subs etc. How you have the amp installed, and what size wiring your using is just as important as upgrading the big 3 BEFORE upgrading your stereo, or any other car audio components.....and this thread is a perfect example why. Bad ground, pinched wires, too low of a final ohm load, etc will put your amp at risk, possibly damaged. protect mode happens for various reasons:

Ground isn't sufficient enough. Bolted to the seat belt bracket is unnacceptable, and isn't a good ground. Chassis or bottom of floor is more suitable. Also no paint, bare metal to metal.

Too low of an ohm load for the amp to handle.

Amp is mounted in an area with no ventalation.

Bad connection(s) from/to amp...check all see if any or lose.

Gain is too high.....set properly for longterm amp useage.

 
Just built one, build over at caco w/ lots of pics. I need to find another web hosting site...PB sucksass now
facebook messenger is great for me. I forgot my password at CACO so that site is completely fked for me, i'll probably never visit it again.

just send yourself a picture message, open the message up, right click, choose copy image address then go to the forum and paste onto the insert image tool on the forum.

this is from 2014

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while i like the SQ and bandwidth, ported gets louder. I'm not into full SQ builds yet.
only reason why i'm saying this is because in the space of what a T line for an 8 takes, you can basically fit two 10s ported on more power which will technically get much louder. However on the same power and cone area, T lines will be louder due to extreme efficiency.

 
only reason why i'm saying this is because in the space of what a T line for an 8 takes, you can basically fit two 10s ported on more power which will technically get much louder. However on the same power and cone area, T lines will be louder due to extreme efficiency.
Yeah?! this is a 1st t-line for me....CSCStang designed it for me for a m3 8.

 
Yeah?! this is a 1st t-line for me....CSCStang designed it for me for a m3 8.
yeah dude T-lines are impressive killers for that wow factor and have good SQ. Just arent good on the termlab but still impressive sounding. Thats why i recommend one if you dont have a lot of power, have plenty of space and want great SQ with respectable output.

I've heard many of chris's T-lines all good sh*t.

 
yeah dude T-lines are impressive killers for that wow factor and have good SQ. Just arent good on the termlab but still impressive sounding. Thats why i recommend one if you dont have a lot of power, have plenty of space and want great SQ with respectable output.
I've heard many of chris's T-lines all good sh*t.
Gonna be feeding it 800 watts....sucker is gonna be loud in my s10 lol.....building amp rack for it also. Didn't realize t-line was SQ oriented tho....I did notice it's not as boomy as my 15's enclosure.

 
Gonna be feeding it 800 watts....sucker is gonna be loud in my s10 lol.....building amp rack for it also. Didn't realize t-line was SQ oriented tho....I did notice it's not as boomy as my 15's enclosure.
that boominess you are used to, thats basically a typical peaky bass response, typical ported style response curve. T lines actually play flat so 135 db at 50hz will be the same as 40hz and 35hz sort of thing. So its actual SQ style bass you are hearing for the first time in your life haha.

Thats why when i hear people claim their subs play flat in a ported box without any EQ adjustments in the bass section(basically flat), i laugh.

But yeah man, try out all the genres and turn your S10 into a pure SQ vehicle. Fully active

 
that boominess you are used to, thats basically a typical peaky bass response, typical ported style response curve. T lines actually play flat so 135 db at 50hz will be the same as 40hz and 35hz sort of thing. So its actual SQ style bass you are hearing for the first time in your life haha.
Thats why when i hear people claim their subs play flat in a ported box without any EQ adjustments in the bass section(basically flat), i laugh.

But yeah man, try out all the genres and turn your S10 into a pure SQ vehicle. Fully active
Meh, SQ is hard to do. I should seek out papermakers advice on that....lmao. I'm more of a basshead than SQ oriented anyway...you know that!! I can very easily play high freq songs in this enclosure vs the x 15's. I can easily play up to 92Hz!! Was messing around with some test tones the other day..

 
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