Lanzar HTG668BT 4000w amp fired? Or?

[LetMyBeatPound]

I been messing with this amp for two days now. It seems like no mater what I do it goes into protection mode... When I just am on assesory power not started it goes into protection, so I start my van an it stays on with the volume at 0. As soon as I hit play through the Bluetooth, protection mode. Or if I switch over to FM it goes into protection mode. I originally thought it may be my subs because I got em a lil hot n now they make some extra noise when when they really moving like some if the enamel or coil form starts touching inside a lil but they still pound an d with the other 2 hooked up you can't hear the lil raddle. Anyway my pioneer amp was referbished and was getting so hot, the day it literally burned my hand I sent it back. So that left me only bumping 2 12"s so I bought this Lanzar 4000w 6 Channel suppose to be 1000w rms on each of the 3 bridge channels but I wasnt expecting anything near that... I was hoping for 400-500w on 2 separate bridges... Anyway thought it was cuz my subs might look blown to the amp is why it was doing it. Hooked a brand new sub up to it and same thing every channel every bridge channel. Then I read somewhere that if you have a poor changing system this could cause this too... And I know my battery is toast... I used to be able to bump for 30-40 minutes n start no problem, now tho if I play it for 2-3 minutes I can't even start my van... But even still when it's running the amp is still getting 13.6 volts but I wonder if this might be the issue... But I'm supecting that the channels may just be fried... Cuz without any speakers hooked up it stays on and I use my multimeter but I'm not sure what to look for at the channels with it... Anyway this is super fustratin so any advice would be appreciated... Thx in advance

Click to read more...

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

yeah 1 of the subs could be messed up causing it.. or amp could be going out.. un hook 1 sub see if other plays, then switch to other sub, if 1 plays other don't u know it's sub.. after that get back with us an we can advise u on better subs and amp..

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

What is the impedance of the subs?

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

I tried it with my old blue waves, DVC, one is 3.8 both coils. The other is 3.8 also but when I switched boxes that other day it was reading 3.8 on one and 4.4 on the other but with them jumped and bridged both are at 7.9 and when put together reads a solid 4 ohms... Also tried my Dub Editions but they read 3.5 both of them and also 3.5 jumped and bridged... I also have a brand new blue waves I just took outta the box this morning and tried each of the 6 channels and it went into protection on each... Also tried hooking the single up to each of the 3 different bridge setups and same result... But if I leave it all disconnected from the channels and use the continuity setting on my multimeter I can reconize the baseline pattern of the song. I'm trying to get a good battery today because I'm thinking the voltage drop cuz of toasted battery but with no actually volume I don't see how it can be dropping voltage that much that it would make the amp protect... Which leads me to believe the channels are fried but idk what setting or what type of volts should be coming outta the channels or why it doesn't go into protection when I probe them with the multimeter but speaker turns it off right away. Thanks

 

[bigblank69 10+ year member]

Ok, let's start here, since I don't think some of the terms are being used accurately. Are you trying to hook up your subs in a Series (Positive from the amp goes to the positive of one of the coils, then the negative of that same coil goes to the positive of the other coil, and the negative from THAT coil goes back to the amp) or are you running the sub in parallel (Both positives and both negatives are hook up to same channel on the amp). If your running in Parallel, and your bridging your amp, you will go into protection on that amp (As you stated the DVC subs your using are DVC 4) as that amp is only 2 ohm stable in stereo mode, not bridged. If your running in a series and your amp is going into protection while your bridged, I would think you have an issue with the amp.

Your electrical may be an issue, but if your at a solid 13.6V then the electrical is not the problem.

Lastly, I'm not a gear snob, but your buying some cheap gear, expect some problems.....

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

yeah don't bridge 2 channels to a 2ohm sub.. wire sub to 2 ohm and just run 1 channel to each sub and see if amp play then.. or wire each sub to 8 ohm then u can bridge 2 channels to 2 subs.. other words u really need a 1ohm stable mono amp that don't say boss, planet audio lanzar autotek or hifonics on it ..

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Yea it's cheap gear but I'm on a slim budget, n my bad about terms I just starting to learn... How I have them wired(idk if this is right) is where I've brought each sub down to 8 ohm at the box terminals then I have each of the 2 wires from the terminals meet up to bring it back to 4 ohms then connected into the bridge... This is how I've been doing it for months since I got my ported box... I had a sealed box n had the wire going to the next chamber and directly into the next ones terminal but I didn't wanna do that with my ported box. I working on getting some new amps I was thinking 2x Pioneer GM-D9601 amps and some Soundstream T5 124 2000w DVC 4ohm... Which is still a bit outta my budget but the reviews I read seem like that's some pretty solid gear for the price... I know Pyle is cheap gear too, but it seems to be pretty solid subs these 1200w PLBWs... With 4 of them on less that 800w rms were pounding super hard... I think this Lanzar is just got bad channels... I got it cuz a review I read said it was the 3rd best ranked 6channel amp of 2016... But now I'm thinking that guy did that review off of a spec sheet instead of actually using em

Also like I said I tried my new Pyle Blue Wave by it self in each of the channels and it goes into protection right away. And that is a brand new first time outta the box sub... I'm waiting for the 2nd one on Wednesday. Think I'll go bring it down to 8ohm and trying running it in each channel... The Lanzar manual shows 8ohm-2ohm usable in all the channels maybe that'll make it work...

 

[bigblank69 10+ year member]

Dude your losing me again... describe where each wire is going to bring you to 8 ohms. If you have a DVC 4, it should be EXACTLY how I described a SERIES wiring up above. Then how many sub are you hooking up per channel and how your wiring them together. If you are doing a series on each sub, then parallel back to the amp then yes your at 4ohms at the amp and your safe to bridge. If your amp is going into protection at that point you could have other issues or the amp itself is busted. BTW how is your amp grounded?

Next it doesnt matter how long you have been doing something if you've been doing it wrong the entire time.

Also please stop describing your amp as 4000W and your Subs at 1200W, neither of those are accurate. Blue Waves or anything Pyle wouldn't last 30 seconds with a true 1200W to it, and that Lanzar couldn't hit 4000W even if a lightning bolt hit it.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Yea it's cheap gear but I'm on a slim budget, n my bad about terms I just starting to learn... How I have them wired(idk if this is right) is where I've brought each sub down to 8 ohm at the box terminals then I have each of the 2 wires from the terminals meet up to bring it back to 4 ohms then connected into the bridge... This is how I've been doing it for months since I got my ported box... I had a sealed box n had the wire going to the next chamber and directly into the next ones terminal but I didn't wanna do that with my ported box. I working on getting some new amps I was thinking 2x Pioneer GM-D9601 amps and some Soundstream T5 124 2000w DVC 4ohm... Which is still a bit outta my budget but the reviews I read seem like that's some pretty solid gear for the price... I know Pyle is cheap gear too, but it seems to be pretty solid subs these 1200w PLBWs... With 4 of them on less that 800w rms were pounding super hard... I think this Lanzar is just got bad channels... I got it cuz a review I read said it was the 3rd best ranked 6channel amp of 2016... But now I'm thinking that guy did that review off of a spec sheet instead of actually using em
Also like I said I tried my new Pyle Blue Wave by it self in each of the channels and it goes into protection right away. And that is a brand new first time outta the box sub... I'm waiting for the 2nd one on Wednesday. Think I'll go bring it down to 8ohm and trying running it in each channel... The Lanzar manual shows 8ohm-2ohm usable in all the channels maybe that'll make it work...

i'll let u sort out the wire i'll find diagram for u.. don't get the pioneer amp. not cause they bad but they don't have ss filter and u have i assume a cheap ported box probably tuned to 43hz so u must set ss filter at 40hz or subs will rip.. also i highly doubt u need 2 of those amps, your 4k lanzar is about a 1k amp maybe., so just get ppi p1k like mine they have tested to actually do 1160rms @1 ohm. pyle subs don't need more that that with gain at like 35%.. this is how to wire to 8ohm subs don't have to be wired together like picture https://www.sonicelectronix.com/product/img/subwoofer_wiring/2_subs_SVC_8_ohm_2ch_bridged.jpg this is what a sub wired at 2 ohm looks like ifthis is how your subs are wired inside box just run 1+&1- from 1 channel to each terminal not bridged http://www.vmaudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/wiring.png

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Wow, don't have to get all uppidy. I'm just describing them by what's on the product. I know its capability is less than as described, even being very new to all this I know that. Just trying to get some advise. The problem isn't with the subs I dont believe because hooked to my 300w RMS Dual they work fine aside from the lil bit of roughness in the one that got hot. I check the ohms before I ever even hook to an amp to make sure they are in spec. Regardless of how they are wired if they are at proper ohm n have good continuity none of that should be the issue. My subs are + of the 1st coil jumped to the - of the 2nd coil on both, then I have the + going to the + and - to the - of the 2nd sub to the other then the line coming out of the that sub from the from the + and - where the 2nd sub is going into it. I think this is called being wired in Series Parallel. To get 4ohm final out of 2 4ohm DVC subs hooked together. Hope I said all that right. Sorry I'm only 4 months deep into this stuff and still learning.

I just wanting to know how to check my channels with the multimeter. I have it powered up no RCA, no subs attached. Input coming from my Bluetooth on my phone directly to the amp.(so cool to be able to do that) The channels show perfect continuity with no input. When I hit play, I can reconize the song through the beep of the continuity test. Also probing the channels on any setting doesn't cause it to go into protection. But as soon as I hook any speaker to it, be it a sub or this little 5.1 surround sound center channel speaker or one of my 5.25 Sony from my dash, it goes into protection mode the instant I hit play on a song.

I have it powered with 4g awg cca at 16.5 feet and grounded with 3 feet of the same 4g awg cca to my inner fender flap where it is point welded to the next panel (double thick panel area) which I sanded and lighting coated with dielectric grease. Also sand the patina off of the nut and bolt I used to bolt it there.

That is the frustrating part is that when everything works on my little amp which is powered and grounded with 8g awg of at the same lengths also the 4g is fused 16" from the battery with an 80amp and the same for the 8g only a 60amp fuse.

I'm hoping this is something I'm doing wrong or because if my battery issue, but I think it's more likely an issue with the amp. I just don't know, that's why I'm here.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

just get 2ga wire run it to back then spit it between amps with distribution block with 4ga wire to each (i think u said u had 2 amps in that i hope is what u were sayin, if not u need 4 ga ground wire too not 8) just look at diagrams

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Yea, I have a 460w 300w RMS Dual on 8g and later added 1000w 500w RMS pioneer that I had to return because it was over heating to the point of burning me without going into protection mode and only after 15-20 minutes of mid volume playing. That was on the 4g later added.

I plan on upgrading to 0g and trunk battery, also a hi-output alternator and big 3 upgrade.

My system was breaking my interior panels and cracked my windshield and broke my review before the pioneer went bad. My box is a 36hrz dual slot ported box, that's what the guy said that I bought it from anyway. Paid $50 for it from Facebook marketplace​.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Yea, I have a 460w 300w RMS Dual on 8g and later added 1000w 500w RMS pioneer that I had to return because it was over heating to the point of burning me without going into protection mode and only after 15-20 minutes of mid volume playing. That was on the 4g later added.
I plan on upgrading to 0g and trunk battery, also a hi-output alternator and big 3 upgrade.

My system was breaking my interior panels and cracked my windshield and broke my review before the pioneer went bad. My box is a 36hrz dual slot ported box, that's what the guy said that I bought it from anyway. Paid $50 for it from Facebook marketplace​.

i would love to see it get dimensions and port width and length from u and tell u how far off it is.. did he make it or it's prefab? click reply then go advanced then manage attachments and u can up load photos on your reply. like this, it's box i designed 15 yrs ago it was tuned to 35hz with 1 port if yours has 2 the box would have to be huge or ports small to be tuned right..

 

[LetMyBeatPound]

Awesomeness, I'll do a pic with LxWxD n port lenght n demetions in the morning, it does seem rather bigger than boxes I looked at online but idk. I pretty much a completely newbie to all this stuff but I like to consider myself to either be well informed, or in the process of schooling myself... I'm very good at hooking stuff up(50+ systems thrown together that to my ear sounded excellent... But the last 2 months have been a worlwind of terms terms and etc I didn't know even existed or mattered... I got about $1000 coming in a few weeks to make my system pound hard, relyibly, and with that amount of budget... So far I been looking at tho sound stream subs, 1000w rms dvc at $160 each on sale... Or some pioneer type R 15s... xs 900 series battery, 50 ft role of 0g ofc, and 2 or 3 1000w to 1500w rms 1ohm amps. Idk if I can accomplish what I want with 4x subs I may need to go up to 6... But I wanna try completing in an ametur bass comp. Idk what exactly this entails but I know since I went up to 4 12s and am back to 2 I am unhappy and am fiending for bass like I used to fiend for heroin... Lol 2 1/2 yrs clean and in college for engineering now tho I may switch to electrical engineering as my major. I just know I must be involved with pretty and loud cars... Thx for yals advice so far, it's all very much appreciated...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yea it's cheap gear but I'm on a slim budget, n my bad about terms I just starting to learn... How I have them wired(idk if this is right) is where I've brought each sub down to 8 ohm at the box terminals then I have each of the 2 wires from the terminals meet up to bring it back to 4 ohms then connected into the bridge... This is how I've been doing it for months since I got my ported box... I had a sealed box n had the wire going to the next chamber and directly into the next ones terminal but I didn't wanna do that with my ported box. I working on getting some new amps I was thinking 2x Pioneer GM-D9601 amps and some Soundstream T5 124 2000w DVC 4ohm... Which is still a bit outta my budget but the reviews I read seem like that's some pretty solid gear for the price... I know Pyle is cheap gear too, but it seems to be pretty solid subs these 1200w PLBWs... With 4 of them on less that 800w rms were pounding super hard... I think this Lanzar is just got bad channels... I got it cuz a review I read said it was the 3rd best ranked 6channel amp of 2016... But now I'm thinking that guy did that review off of a spec sheet instead of actually using em
Also like I said I tried my new Pyle Blue Wave by it self in each of the channels and it goes into protection right away. And that is a brand new first time outta the box sub... I'm waiting for the 2nd one on Wednesday. Think I'll go bring it down to 8ohm and trying running it in each channel... The Lanzar manual shows 8ohm-2ohm usable in all the channels maybe that'll make it work...

all the gear you just mentioned are the lowest ranked garbage in all of the car audio world. Literally everything else is better. You need to stop looking at top 10 or something and just save up and we'll point you into what actually gets you loud because all you are doing is just buying garbage over and over and never achieving results while all that money you keep blowing on it could have gotten you a respectable sound system.

pyle, dual, pyramid, lanzar, hifonics, power acoustic, planet audio, autotek, boss, soundstream, dub edition, performance tecknique, audiobahn, are all brands you avoid and dont even touch with a 50 foot pole. Its that horrible of trash companies with disgraceful manufacturing and marketing tactics that should never EVER get any money from you unless you like buying doorstops.

That top amplifier site is made by some nobody that doesnt know the first thing about car audio, all he did was pick a product with lots of selling potential, posted it on his site and had an affiliate link with amazon/ebay/jet or whatever he's promoting. They just need to find the link of the particular product and if the customer buys it, and he gets a 4-8% cut of all sales. Its call associative marketing that amazon, ebay offers. They prey on noobs like you to make their fast cash.