kx2500 going into protect..

We're gonna try running all 0 gauge for power and ground and see how that works. We'll let everyone know when it comes in the mail, and when we get it installed, etc.

I am curious though as to why this amp works on some stock alt/1 batt setups yet it won't on all? Wouldn't it work on all stock electrical systems if it works on some? Given it's all 0 gauge wiring, which we are about to try.

Also, we need to get rid of that cap.

 
Also, I think he just wants what he can "get by" with at the moment. HO Alts cost money, sometimes a lot of money depending on the size, and not everyone can afford them at the moment...so temporarily he just wants something that will work (I.E. not go into protect mode) without having to spend all the money to upgrade his electrical system. Basically, if 0 gauge wire all around makes it stop going into protect, then he's satisfied and that's all he wants...for now.

 
I am curious though as to why this amp works on some stock alt/1 batt setups yet it won't on all? Wouldn't it work on all stock electrical systems if it works on some? Given it's all 0 gauge wiring, which we are about to try.

Also, we need to get rid of that cap.
Cause it could be alot of things but 99% chance it is that the voltage is 2 low.

Just cause your batteries dont drop below 11volts dont mean that amp is seeing 11volts. with that small power wire alot less current is getting to the amp.

If you use 1/0 gage it will be a different story.

4 gage wire will only allow so much current to run through it (around 150 amps) and once the amp draws more and cant get it. The amp will go into protect. (what is going on in this case.)

So the batteries are only droping to 11v but the amp could be well under that cause it is eating up more current then it is being supplied.

1/0 gage is going to let alot more current flow through the wire and should make that amp very happy and get rid of the cutting out.

That is why it works on other stock alts / batteries. /end of story.

Get the 1/0 gage and problem will go away.

Good luck and hope this cleared it up alittle.

 
Those were my thoughts exactly. I was just making sure. Now I am almost positive it will work once all the wiring is upgraded to 0 gauge. What I was trying to get across by asking was that if some stock electrical systems are able to push this amp, AT LEAST without it going into protect, then all should (given every setup had 0 gauge wire ran throughout). Thanks man for being very sensable.

And again, we'll update once we get it all installed.

 
Those were my thoughts exactly. I was just making sure. Now I am almost positive it will work once all the wiring is upgraded to 0 gauge. What I was trying to get across by asking was that if some stock electrical systems are able to push this amp, AT LEAST without it going into protect, then all should (given every setup had 0 gauge wire ran throughout). Thanks man for being very sensable.
And again, we'll update once we get it all installed.

No Problem.

You are going to have crazy voltage drops with that amp. which isnt healthy for the amp, or your car.
ALWAYS...upgrade your electrical system before you start buying audio equipment.
I agree but some people just dont know.

That is what these forums are here for to learn and have fun along with the head aces.

 
We tested the voltage at the amp, not the battery. I would like to appolagize to everyone that took offense to me trying to help as well. This is the first thread ive seen that has stated that length on a ground doesnt matter. Obviously i have ALOT still to learn, i think we all do in some ways. And as for T-money, come on down and you will find out how much of an "E-thug" i am. Once again, i am sorry i ever attempted to throw any bit of help out there.

 
We tested the voltage at the amp, not the battery. I would like to appolagize to everyone that took offense to me trying to help as well. This is the first thread ive seen that has stated that length on a ground doesnt matter. Obviously i have ALOT still to learn, i think we all do in some ways. And as for T-money, come on down and you will find out how much of an "E-thug" i am. Once again, i am sorry i ever attempted to throw any bit of help out there.
Yes but a dmm does not update in real time so the voltage could be droping and it not picking it up fast enough.

 
Ok i gotcha there. I have noticed mine is a little slow on the draw it seems, such as, it will hit a really peaky note and about 1-2 seconds later the voltage will drop dramatically. I think i understand what your talking about man. Well what do you guys think i can do to help, me personally on my voltage? Like i said before it idles around 14.4-14.5 or so, but it drops to around 11.8 max, usually stays around 12-12.5, what can i do to prevent this big of a drop? All big 3 is complete, ive got a nearly brand new iraggi 200 amp, 3 brand new batteries, 2 are everstart maxx's. I have 0 gauge ran throughout. Im open to any suggestions? Do you guys think i need another run from my alternator to my battery? Or perhaps another run from the front battery to the rear 2? Thanks guys.

 
wow...e-thug war and I missed it...dangiit!

anyway, I think the answer was pointed out, and has clearly shown it's not a bad amp.

PS me thinks Tommy was trying to help, don't know what all the other drama was directed towards him, for helping.

Just my $.02

 
Ok i gotcha there. I have noticed mine is a little slow on the draw it seems, such as, it will hit a really peaky note and about 1-2 seconds later the voltage will drop dramatically. I think i understand what your talking about man. Well what do you guys think i can do to help, me personally on my voltage? Like i said before it idles around 14.4-14.5 or so, but it drops to around 11.8 max, usually stays around 12-12.5, what can i do to prevent this big of a drop? All big 3 is complete, ive got a nearly brand new iraggi 200 amp, 3 brand new batteries, 2 are everstart maxx's. I have 0 gauge ran throughout. Im open to any suggestions? Do you guys think i need another run from my alternator to my battery? Or perhaps another run from the front battery to the rear 2? Thanks guys.
Did you upgrade all your big 3 wiring as well?

wow...e-thug war and I missed it...dangiit!
anyway, I think the answer was pointed out, and has clearly shown it's not a bad amp.

PS me thinks Tommy was trying to help, don't know what all the other drama was directed towards him, for helping.

Just my $.02
Thanks for the back-up tracy, I was trying to play nice this time. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Ok i gotcha there. I have noticed mine is a little slow on the draw it seems, such as, it will hit a really peaky note and about 1-2 seconds later the voltage will drop dramatically. I think i understand what your talking about man. Well what do you guys think i can do to help, me personally on my voltage? Like i said before it idles around 14.4-14.5 or so, but it drops to around 11.8 max, usually stays around 12-12.5, what can i do to prevent this big of a drop? All big 3 is complete, ive got a nearly brand new iraggi 200 amp, 3 brand new batteries, 2 are everstart maxx's. I have 0 gauge ran throughout. Im open to any suggestions? Do you guys think i need another run from my alternator to my battery? Or perhaps another run from the front battery to the rear 2? Thanks guys.
If you have 200amp alt, 3 batteries, lots of 1/0 gage and have done the big 3 and still got that much voltage drop you are going to need better batteries or a bigger alt.

Check all your grounds. big three done in 1/0 gage?

What else are you running?

 
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