kick panels

And then you have those people (highly knowledgeable, mind you) that tell you to start with both aiming at the back of the headunit.
Then you have those who tell you to start with them aimed at the dome light.

Then you have those who.....

Yeah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

So many different ways to get a "starting point"...and by the time you finish aiming and find the best positioning, it will likely be way the hell off from your original starting point (whichever you choose) anyways......

You are correct sir , the way I mentioned works to get a good starting point with cone mids . Now if your using dome mids that's a whole nother animal in itself //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
a dash, what its made from/covered with, center consoles, glass all play roles in what things will do


Speaking of which , what would you recommend for sealing up the underside of a dash ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Speaking of which , what would you recommend for sealing up the underside of a dash ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Another good method is to get some chicken wire (very open wire mesh), eggcrate foam and regular open cell foam. Stick the chicken wire between the eggcrate foam and open cell foam, then sew or glue them (the eggcrate and regular open cell foam) together.

Reason for this, instead of using a hard surface behind the foam, is so that any waves that "make it through" the foam won't just be reflected straight back down from a hard surface directly behind the foam....it will go up into the dash cavity, bounce around a little bit and be reflected back into the foam a 2nd time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Seems to work well. I believe Scott Buwalda was the one who I originally heard mention the above method...and many people who've tried it since have really like the results.

I believe it was Derek (from forums like SIN and DIYMA) who did the above, and said he virtually eliminated the need for equalization above 1khz in his system.

 
I have a sheet or two of sonex 2" . Think I'm gonna have a whirl with it and see what the results are . Gettting some nasty reflections from under the dash . Partly due to how far back the mids are placed in the kicks , but mainly due to the pos solid plastic panels under the dash . silly japanese engineers went to the trouble to try and seal up under the dash area , yet used 5 screws to assemble the entire interior of the car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif There are literally more screws holding the head unit in , than all the interior panels combined //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Look on the bright side....should make removal of the panels easier //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

But yeah...ditch those plastic under dash panels.

 
Many moons ago , when I was working at the shop . I recall myself shaking my head in disbelief at how anal retentive this one customer was . The guy was competing in IASCA PRO 601 and up at the time. I used to think , this dude is fugging ridiculous about this crap . Now the reasoning why is starting to hit home more and more each day //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Look on the bright side....should make removal of the panels easier //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

But yeah...ditch those plastic under dash panels.
True , I can rip the entire interior out in a matter of minutes . Just about the only upside to having a pos car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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