I'm not familiar with the setup of that car.
Pics ?
Pics ?
- Thread Starter
- #5
Driver Side
Driver Side
Passenger Side
Driver Side
Passenger Side
i can help you.
- Thread Starter
- #7
Maybe we can meet up next week, and I will bring the car for you to look at.
Ignatowski
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
I would love to find someone to make me a pair for my new ride(06 F350)
The most car audio enept vehicle I have ever owned
The most car audio enept vehicle I have ever owned
- Thread Starter
- #9
well i think I solved my problem. I'm going to make my car a hand brake. Ordered the handle today. When I make my kick panels, which way do I point the speakers?
Make the baffle, install the speakers, wrap some towels around the rear of the speakers, and hook them up and play with the aiming until you find the positioning that sounds best.
It comes down to the vehicle, the speakers, etc. There is no one best aiming that will sound best all of the time.
You just have to play with it, and listen to it.
- Thread Starter
- #11
ok will do. Thanks
- Thread Starter
- #12
I had to call a shop near me to ask about a HU, so I asked how much it would cost to have my kicks done. He told me base price is $750, no speakers. I know that they do amazing work, but I'm glad I'm doing it myself. (OK, maybe a little help)
Yeah...anything that involves custom work and fiberglass is going to be very expensive for a shop to do, since it's both labor intensive and the materials are relatively expensive.
This is the way I have always used to get a starting point for kick aiming . It came courtesy of Matt Borgardt from Image dynamics //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
1) Put your front seats where you intend to either drive the car or where you will have them if you plan to compete, this is very very important. I am talking about fore and aft, height, seat back tilt angle. If not competing then where you will drive the car at and the passenger side the same.
If you are competing in car audio comps, then all the way back and low but even with the passenger side for height, lean the seats back a bit but not real far to make them uncomfortable.
2) Sit in your seat as you would driving or listening as per above, make sure you are correctly placed, if you tend to drive leaning way forward like some do, you should adjust how you sit, better for your posture anyway, lol, lean back in the seat
3) Have somebody you trust to do this correctly, critically important. Roll the windows up, have them look very very carefully at where the entrance to your eardrum is on your window side ear, left ear, mark it on the window or on the pillar with a small spot of tape.
4) Move to the other front seat and do the same except of course on the right ear this time.
5) Ok to get out of the car now Measure 5" forward and 1.5" down from the spot marked for your ear entrance points on each side of the car, should be two marks on the car now, one for your ears and one forward and down as above.
6) Build some temp baffles for the speakers or the ones you will use, what I do. Have the tweeters mounted very low and to the door side of the baffle, the woofers go furthest forward and low as well.
7) Aim the woofers(midbasses) exactly at the forward and down spot on the glass you marked.
This is the sweet spot, instead of fighting the glass reflections you are using them to your advantage. The right speaker will reflect off the left glass into your left ear and help equalize the sound you hear from both speakers, seems odd but it works, exceptionally well. I beat a prior world champ twice in two months, two seperate installs in my truck and two totally seperate comp installs in his truck and a customers truck using these methods of alignment.
8)Take a kitchen towel and put it behind the baffels can cover the back of the speakers, then do some serious listening tests to see if you need to align them differently but this should be pretty darn accurate.
9) Be very carefull when glassing the kicks as the glass can pull them out of alignment when drying as tends to shrink so mount the baffles very well before glassing.
10) Wire the midbass on the passenger out of phase with the drivers side midbass, you may lose some midbass output but the sub can help make up for that quite well when tuned properly, better yet to have some midbasses in the doors. Try all the phasing setups you can, sometimes the drivers side is best, sometimes but not often, both in phase works
It will get you in the ball park , then you can tweak to your liking from there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
1) Put your front seats where you intend to either drive the car or where you will have them if you plan to compete, this is very very important. I am talking about fore and aft, height, seat back tilt angle. If not competing then where you will drive the car at and the passenger side the same.
If you are competing in car audio comps, then all the way back and low but even with the passenger side for height, lean the seats back a bit but not real far to make them uncomfortable.
2) Sit in your seat as you would driving or listening as per above, make sure you are correctly placed, if you tend to drive leaning way forward like some do, you should adjust how you sit, better for your posture anyway, lol, lean back in the seat
3) Have somebody you trust to do this correctly, critically important. Roll the windows up, have them look very very carefully at where the entrance to your eardrum is on your window side ear, left ear, mark it on the window or on the pillar with a small spot of tape.
4) Move to the other front seat and do the same except of course on the right ear this time.
5) Ok to get out of the car now Measure 5" forward and 1.5" down from the spot marked for your ear entrance points on each side of the car, should be two marks on the car now, one for your ears and one forward and down as above.
6) Build some temp baffles for the speakers or the ones you will use, what I do. Have the tweeters mounted very low and to the door side of the baffle, the woofers go furthest forward and low as well.
7) Aim the woofers(midbasses) exactly at the forward and down spot on the glass you marked.
This is the sweet spot, instead of fighting the glass reflections you are using them to your advantage. The right speaker will reflect off the left glass into your left ear and help equalize the sound you hear from both speakers, seems odd but it works, exceptionally well. I beat a prior world champ twice in two months, two seperate installs in my truck and two totally seperate comp installs in his truck and a customers truck using these methods of alignment.
8)Take a kitchen towel and put it behind the baffels can cover the back of the speakers, then do some serious listening tests to see if you need to align them differently but this should be pretty darn accurate.
9) Be very carefull when glassing the kicks as the glass can pull them out of alignment when drying as tends to shrink so mount the baffles very well before glassing.
10) Wire the midbass on the passenger out of phase with the drivers side midbass, you may lose some midbass output but the sub can help make up for that quite well when tuned properly, better yet to have some midbasses in the doors. Try all the phasing setups you can, sometimes the drivers side is best, sometimes but not often, both in phase works
It will get you in the ball park , then you can tweak to your liking from there //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
And then you have those people (highly knowledgeable, mind you) that tell you to start with both aiming at the back of the headunit.
Then you have those who tell you to start with them aimed at the dome light.
Then you have those who.....
Yeah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
So many different ways to get a "starting point"...and by the time you finish aiming and find the best positioning, it will likely be way the hell off from your original starting point (whichever you choose) anyways......
Then you have those who tell you to start with them aimed at the dome light.
Then you have those who.....
Yeah //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
So many different ways to get a "starting point"...and by the time you finish aiming and find the best positioning, it will likely be way the hell off from your original starting point (whichever you choose) anyways......
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