Kangaroux's 99 Pathfinder

Figured out the reason my door panel flexes so much. It's not because it doesn't attach well to the door, but it's because the whole inside of the door itself flexes a ton. Unfortunately there are so many curves it would be hard for me to brace it, especially without blocking the window. I was thinking of picking up some cheap resin and putting several coats on the door to stop it from flexing (not the outer shell but the inside). Any suggestions?
Also, running speaker wire through the grommets is a royal pain in the *** on this model (my 97 was moderately easy, this is just plain difficult). Does anyone have any experience with these newer pathfinders? The only way I will be able to do it easily is to take off the whole dash and I really don't feel like doing that
i thought i'd have to take the e-brake assembly off my buick....I ended up using a really thick piece of solder to get where I needed to go, it was flexible enough to bend but stiff enough to do what I needed. Wasn't easy by any means.

 
Out with the old

shmEz.jpg


In with the new

HcOlq.jpg


Also decided it was finally time to use up the rest of the roll of deadener I have (though I still have some left lulz). Covered the huge holes with straight up deadener, and for the larger gap I double layered it so I wouldn't run into issues with the deadener flexing around. The rest of the deadener will probably go on the hatch or something. Not putting more on the roof since I'll be spray foaming the ish out of that soon so the roof and my headliner don't flex anymore

fmKWH.jpg


 
They weren't actually old at all I got them like that with a raptor amp kit I got with my rockford amp. The knu's only costed me $7 and they come with a built in remote wire which is sick too

 
Was browsing through some forums and found this. Now, I hate lowered cars. I think they look terrible. However, this looks great IMO. Lifting isn't really an option because pathfinders are unibodies which means that unless I want to do anything over a 2" lift or lower I need to do some frame mods which includes welding, and I have 0 experience with that stuff.

Anyways, at some point I'm gonna want to lower it and possibly murder it out...not sure if I want to murder it or storm trooper. In the end it will probably look like this:

IMG00107.jpg


but lowered a little.

Minor update/whatever since I won't be able to do any work on this for a while and this thread was getting lonely

 
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Was browsing through some forums and found this. Now, I hate lowered cars. I think they look terrible. However, this looks great IMO. Lifting isn't really an option because pathfinders are unibodies which means that unless I want to do anything over a 2" lift or lower I need to do some frame mods which includes welding, and I have 0 experience with that stuff.
Anyways, at some point I'm gonna want to lower it and possibly murder it out...not sure if I want to murder it or storm trooper. In the end it will probably look like this:

IMG00107.jpg


but lowered a little.

Minor update/whatever since I won't be able to do any work on this for a while and this thread was getting lonely
my jeep is a unibody and i can get all the way up to 10 inch lift without having to do any major modifications. you just have to go with a suspesion lift instead of a body lift. at least that is the way it is with jeeps anyways and they are unibody. but maybe the pathfinder is different, was looking at some lifted pathfinders and they look pretty badas$ lifted.

 
my jeep is a unibody and i can get all the way up to 10 inch lift without having to do any major modifications. you just have to go with a suspesion lift instead of a body lift. at least that is the way it is with jeeps anyways and they are unibody. but maybe the pathfinder is different, was looking at some lifted pathfinders and they look pretty badas$ lifted.
I'd love to do a 4" or 6" lift on the pathfinder but every build log I've seen of one had to have some serious modding done through welding etc. I'm sure there are kits that will do it and maybe the build logs are for people that wanna do it themselves to save on cash?

 
Put the seats down and moved the box back to be about 16" from the hatch. Ironically the lows are a lot better now. Before I was getting heavy roll off from 32hz down but now it's a much smoother roll off. I'm starting to contemplate building my bandpass to be port up since firing at the hatch doesn't seem to yield such amazing results on the lows.

Also, has anyone ever used this, and if so, how sticky is it? Shop Dow 12 Oz. Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant at Lowes.com

I need to spray foam my roof and I want the headliner and the foam to stick really well so the headliner doesn't simply flex and slap the foam

 
I've used it a few times,most recently to seal the channel from my kicks to the back of the Xtra cab. Didn't like music coming from behind me. Worked good in that app,as now my old 4" Quart mids are playing down to 80hz,getting 150w/ea,from the bridged 900/5. It is pretty sticky stuff,especially when you get it on your hands.. Not sure how well it will work filling large,shallow expanses,like between roof ribs and a headliner. It doesn't have enough force to push the foam much farther than the end of the tube.

 
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Kangaroux

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