Kangaroux's 99 Pathfinder

Got the amp hooked up and this thing is a tank...much louder on the lows because of the efficiency. Driving around today playing some full tilt white girl my voltage literally wasn't even moving.

 
Hey man, I have the same volt meter as you. I put it in the same spot.

I wired it up to my amp.. and it doesnt turn off when the car does. DOH. Its the same as hooking it up to my battery.

What did you wire yours to so that it shuts off? I have to wire to the amp + no matter what... is there a such thing as a switched ground?

 
Hey man, I have the same volt meter as you. I put it in the same spot.
I wired it up to my amp.. and it doesnt turn off when the car does. DOH. Its the same as hooking it up to my battery.

What did you wire yours to so that it shuts off? I have to wire to the amp + no matter what... is there a such thing as a switched ground?
Wire your 12v constant to the amp, ground your other wire... There should be a third wire, hook that one up to your remote wire from your HU.

 
Wire your 12v constant to the amp, ground your other wire... There should be a third wire, hook that one up to your remote wire from your HU.
Nah there are only 2 wires. Hook up the +12v positive (red wire) to the headunit/acc ignition wire on your headunit harness (should be a red wire)

 
Yeah these ones are kinda funky. I guess you could hook up a relay to the battery if you wanted to but the acc wire works just as good
Wait, I thought I was supposed to be measuring the voltage that the amp is getting?

If I hook into the power wire behind my HU, wouldnt I be measuring the voltage my headunit is getting? lol

 
i have a stinger volt meter with three wires, a hot, ground, and remote. I wired mine up directly to the wire that goes to the amp, and also the remote at the amp, and the ground at the amp... if there are only two wires then its remote wire at amp and ground at amp.

 
i have a stinger volt meter with three wires, a hot, ground, and remote. I wired mine up directly to the wire that goes to the amp, and also the remote at the amp, and the ground at the amp... if there are only two wires then its remote wire at amp and ground at amp.
Remote wire for the amp isn't a good idea you want to measure the voltage coming from the battery not what's being put out by your headunit which is why the ACC wire works good, it's just on a relay with the battery and gets power when you turn the key

 
I have a sneaking suspicion the reading comes from the + on the volt meter, not the remote... so how it turns on is pointless in the equation. Thats my take on something I've been doing the same way since 1999...

 
I have a sneaking suspicion the reading comes from the + on the volt meter, not the remote... so how it turns on is pointless in the equation. Thats my take on something I've been doing the same way since 1999...
Thats great, but I have 2 wires. + and ground.. no remote

 
I have a sneaking suspicion the reading comes from the + on the volt meter, not the remote... so how it turns on is pointless in the equation. Thats my take on something I've been doing the same way since 1999...
Nooo I mean that you want to attach the positive wire for your volt meter to something that is directly coming from the battery. The remote wire that comes out of your headunit isn't something that is direct from the battery, so the voltage may not be the same.

On another note, I've been doing some upgrades lately. As you guys know I swapped out my 2500 for a 2200, I also ordered a roll of 60mil b-stock from coleman (great stuff!) and as of a couple minutes ago ordered a Pioneer MVH-8200BT for a headunit upgrade. My alpine is good but because my ipod is newer the functionality is a bit off...random pausing, skipping, etc. I got the pioneer for a good price and one of my buddies has one and I love using it so it only seemed obvious that I get one for myself //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Deadener will be going in soon enough, hopefully one of these days will be fairly warm and sunny out. I need to get me a roller first, though. I'll do a before/after of the deadener install to show you guys how much of an improvement there will be.

My next plan for the build is to get some wire and hook up my rubicon 4 channel I have here. After that happens, I'll be picking up a good battery for the back and then I need to start saving up for a second 18. I don't want to dump $$ into an alt because they aren't exactly cheap, so I'm just going to stick with one 2200 for now and run it at .5 (hence why I want to get the second battery). If funds allow, I'll swap out my 2200 for a 3500 so I have some more power on tap. Though I think I will just build the box to be efficient so I don't have to go that route (~7-8 cubes per sub, plenty of port area as well for extra output)

 
Decided I'm just gonna rock a single 18 instead of the 2. Going to do a 4th order tuned to 40hz for some good lows (25-40hz with authority is what i am looking for). When I get the cash I'll be buying the wood and making that. Hopefully the output is a lot better. Gonna use some of that cabinet grade ply from lowes to save on weight as well as the box will look nicer than just MDF

 
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