no, it means your alt can't keep up.
- Thread Starter
- #3
I figured this much but I'm only running 1.2k and it's a brand new alternator. I'm just wondering why I'm not noticing any change. Most people suggest a bigger battery for dimming and my dimming is just as bad. Ugh this is a pain in the *** :-/ It almost seems like I have a bad ground... I did my big III and I can't see anywhere I went bad with it. I grounded to the factory ground spot cleaned it up and used true 0 gauge. I also have my amplifier set to 1.2k I know its not doing more than that. I start @ 14.4v and sometimes drop into the low 12's.
or i'm thinking its something else like maybe my idle is low this jeep has some miles and i've heard of this happening. I just need some suggestions and possible things to try out , if it's indeed just my alternator that ***** cause I woulda just got an alt for $300 lol. I just didnt want to put that much into my jeep since I'm getting a new one soon and it won't be the same mounting.
- Thread Starter
- #5
off battery sits @ 12.6-.8, Idling it's about 14.5v and when I'm just playing music it doesn't move when I go full tilt it starts to drop to 13-low 12's. maybe its low idle whats a normal Jeep idle @? If I give her like 1500rpm she barely drops.
- Thread Starter
- #7
Huh? what are you talking about? these are said to be one the most reliable and easiest to recover batteries? anyways its brand new and resting @ 12.7v I hardly concider that undercharged... Anyways I'm starting to think its my big III I have many wires... I have 0ga from alt+ to batt+ then I have 0GA from batt- to chassis, then I have 0ga from engine ground to battery negative then I use 0ga ran back to a 3 way splitter that does 3 4ga then I have my amplifier grounded to the seatbelt bolt. If I did that right I also have 2 smaller wires running 1 from the fuse box to the + on the battery and a negative that I think goes to my starter but I'm not sure.
So I have 3 wires on my + batt terminal and 3 wires on my negative terminal and 4 of the 6 wires are 0 gauged. I'm going to do more testing tommorow when it's day to see my voltages @ full tilt etc. and do some testing. I'm going to examine my wiring and do additonal testing. I just want some ideas on what to try while im out there tommorow.
Just saying I have 2 odysseys out in my garage that I am trying to recover now as well as about 4 or 5 that I have tried to recover over the past 2 years. Never have I gotten them to recover in under 5 cycles when sulfated if they come back. 5 cycles isnt a 1 day event, thats recharging a battery that doesn't initially want to take a charge then discharge it then recharge it then discharge it then recharge it again......Fun stuff
- Thread Starter
- #9
Ok I appreciate your concern but I don't see how this is helping me? I'd prefer Odyssey over a lot of other brands from what I've heard. I could have gotten an XS 3400 or HC1800 instead I got this it was the best of all 3 and everyone said to get one, now I just dont get WHY my **** voltage is dropping and my lights are dimming so bad when I've done all this to my vehicle and only runny 1.2k.
I just went over my Big III btw and it seems fine all the wires are snug and all are 0ga and all are going to the right places... Only thing I can think of is amp ground, batt ground or something else very odd...
Nothing wrong with them as with any battery you do not want to have it go undercharged. It gets undercharged it can get sulfation crystals and that is no fun to try to bring back. You will want to make sure it doesnt start resting low. IIRC that voltage is 12.65. I usually wait for the vehicle to be turned off for a few hours to let the surface charge from the alternator leave before I measure battery resting voltage and of course measure with the car off.
RAM_Designs
5,000+ posts
SketchUp Master
Batteries really don't help dimming unless you're dropping really low(like
Most of us just deal with the fact that we're going to have some dimming when our system gets past the amperage that our alt can provide. And we'll live with having a little wall of power at 13V via our batts to keep the voltage from dropping much further.
Most of us just deal with the fact that we're going to have some dimming when our system gets past the amperage that our alt can provide. And we'll live with having a little wall of power at 13V via our batts to keep the voltage from dropping much further.
CAT MAN
5,000+ posts
Banned
i buy redtops for upfront batteries. and mega crank yellowtop 100ah batts for the rear. (i have a ups batt now) redtops are great upfront batteries man oddysy batts are not the best to have upfront with 1.2k
This is right from their own manual
"MAINTENANCE
ODYSSEY® batteries are very different from standard liquid-acid batteries that are openly vented. The ODYSSEY
battery is and operates as a sealed battery, recycling nearly all gases internally under normal operating conditions.
There is no corrosion of the positive terminal or corrosion to the surrounding area. ODYSSEY batteries are shipped
fully charged from the factory, but prior to installation, check the battery’s voltage to see if it is 12.65 volts or
greater. If not, recharge it using the procedure below.
Do not charge in an air tight compartment
Never attempt to remove the top decal cover, as it will cause the battery to fail."
1200 mono amp + 400 watt mids highs amp on a 90 amp alternator? You do realize that the car needs 30 to 60 amps to stay running too right? Just saying on the audio side of it not counting the car I would want more than 90 amps just for the audio system as it can easily pull more than 100 amps itself (if that is 1600 watts rms) then you would be running the car and part of the audio system from the battery which discharges the battery. In a scenario like this you are going to want to atleast be sure your battery stays charged up without falling too low because an alt is nothing more than a good bulk maintainer until the battery runs low. After that alternators can over charge a battery and you could really but a lot of stress on the alt.
- Thread Starter
- #15
Ok thanks for the information but my battery was 12.7v when I first DMM it that aspect is fine. I understand my alternator is small, but do you understand theres MANY people running 1.5-2kw off 90a alternators and stock batts with big III getting no dimming and 13.6-13.8v is their lowest drop?... I'm not understanding why my new bigger battery big III and efficient amplifier aren't upto task. Something just doesnt seem right.
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