LosIsATool
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
2v preouts are fine. Take out the 6 x 9s and make sure the settings on the amp and HU are correct. You can cut a sheet of MDF to level out the floor but its only cosmetic.
audioholic
5,000+ posts
not a moderator
Let me guess, he has just the deck to sell you, and custom box too.
Like said above, 2volt preamps is fine. Higher voltage pre outs simply help reduce the noise threshold in the system. So unless you are experiencing a buzzing or whining sound, it wont help to increase your signal voltage. And even if you do have noise that is audible with that 2volt signal, the problem is bad enough that it should be addressed directly, not attempted to cover over with a higher signal voltage. If that car audio expert is really an expert, he knows this, and is just trying to make a buck off you. If he doesn't know that, he isnt an expert.
Your amplifier's gains are adjusted to compensate for signal voltage. Increasing signal voltage simply means you would be required to lower your gain adjustment. This is why gains are commonly referred to as 'sensitivity adjusters'. So knowing this, you can understand that a higher signal voltage wont make your system any louder, at all.
THATpurpleKUSH
5,000+ posts
Fuckyou
Do a big 3 upgrade and add get an alternator or at least a 2nd battery....in that order. Those little jap econoboxes have super weak alternators/electrical systems....not good for high powered stereos.
WheresTheButta
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
I agree with this approach. You don't have sufficient electrical support for your amplifier, and that's what is holding you back. Upgrade your electrical and then go from there.
I'd also like to agree with Audioholic - it sounds like the guy who is giving you advice is trying to sell you something you don't need.
Bettr n' Revrse
5,000+ posts
I do what I want
Its a W6 on an Alpine 1000 he is just fine for voltage Im sure lol...
as previously mentioned, unless you are hearing noise with zero volume, your 2v hu is okay. the box should be fine as well, assuming that the sub was made specifically for that enclosure, jl does a pretty good job of building a properly tuned enclosure for their subs. i doubt most shops could make a signficantly better sounding overall box for your sub. sounds like the shops trying to see you some things. not sure what sound issues you are exactly experiencing, but you might have trunk metal rattling that may be degrading your sound. you could try putting the trunk carpet back in, or putting some sound deadening material in the trunk, or repositioning the sub box also, just to get you started.
WheresTheButta
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
he has a 75 amp alternator. If his 1000 watt amplifier was 100% efficient, it would draw 83 amps. That's above the capabilities of his tiny alternator, which is already expending much of its output to power the vehicle's systems and charge the battery.
His amplifier is not 100% efficient, so at full tilt he will draw more than 83 amps. His electrical is less than what's required for that setup.
Further, small gauge wire has more resistance and further hampers power delivery. Upgrading his wire will reduce the resistance and allow his electrical system to be more efficient. At the very least he should upgrade his wire and get another battery, but I'd recommend a better alternator too. This way when he inevitably upgrades in the future, he'll have enough juice to support it.
audioholic
5,000+ posts
not a moderator
Most amplifiers are around 80% efficient at full tilt. Both class A/B and class D (contrary to popular belief). So simply multiplying estimated current draw by 1.2 should give you a rough idea what the amp is capable of drawing from your charging system. Obviously this is a generic equation, and not amplifiers hold true to this, but its a pretty good rule of thumb.
from what i've seen, class d amps are in the 70's to 90's percent at full power, class a/b's are around 60's to 70's at full tilt, both dependent on load presented to the amp. where the real advantage comes in with class d amps is at lower power levels (which is typical when you play music and not test tones). at these levels, say 1/3 to 1/2, the drop in efficiency is much more significant in class a/b amps, anywhere in the 20's to 40's, whereas class d amps maintain their efficiency much better.
this being said, i don't think that's the issue with the op's sq problem.
this being said, i don't think that's the issue with the op's sq problem.
audioholic
5,000+ posts
not a moderator
Yes, class D amplifiers have their big efficiency advantage at low to moderate power levels. Once higher to maximum output levels are reached, their efficiency levels are similar to a class A/B.
- Thread Starter
- #13
Thank you for all the help, i actually saw the first two posts then my internet cut out. I actually ended up fixing the problem. I experimented around and found out that on the headunits sub level should be at 9 out of 15 instead of 15 out of 15 which i have used on all the other subs i have used. Everything sounds real amazing now whereas the 15 out of 15 didnt have the jl sound quality. Thanks for all the help, it really helped me narrow down that there was no problem with my system and allowed me to find a solution.
Bettr n' Revrse
5,000+ posts
I do what I want
You really think he is putting 1000 watts to a w6? No he isn't so his electrical is probably fine... I'm running a big belle at 1 ohm in my Honda //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
akheathen
Premium Member
trianoacitol contraceptiv
lol, remember that "sound quality issue" sound...... whenever you hear it, you are clipping/distorting, and that is the #1 cause of failure. avoid it like herpies. as for the class a/b, well, i can tell you at full tilt and the proper ohm load, they are almost the same, even the ones advertizing low efficiency, becuase there is a point in an a/b that the power supply is used by the rails, and that rail sag is not that bad. for instance, kicker zr series amps would be far over 80% efficient at 2.66v, because it will pass pretty much full current, yet not have substantial rail sag (output voltage drop, basically) yes, class d does have an efficient way of pulsing the putput at high frequenciy, thus keeping a higher charged output from a source voltage, but, really, it is only 5-15%max gain in efficiency over class a/b. also, remember many class a/b amps were rated conservative, as to keep the numbers low so you could push it to higher effeciency, and thus much more than rated power. honestly, 90% of the feeficiency comes strait out of how well the power supply is built, and has nothing to do with what class output it is.... and many factors i do not care to go into.
back to topic-
that being said, your high output box is genaric, really, not to say it may not be good, but i havve a feeling it is tuned a bit high, and if you had to pull your spare tire to fit it, you may be loosing out some by dropping it at the back of the trunk. a well built box, probably designed by someone on this site as a supporting vendor, could get you some better sound and output, but 'eh...... as for your power source.... yes, i have seen many hondas, and other imporyd, and they are not liberal on the main power cables.... just enough to support some stock low current bullshit. i would upgrade to at least a 4awg big 3 and make sure your grounding system is up to par. likely, it is good enough for a 40-60a load, if that.
back to topic-
that being said, your high output box is genaric, really, not to say it may not be good, but i havve a feeling it is tuned a bit high, and if you had to pull your spare tire to fit it, you may be loosing out some by dropping it at the back of the trunk. a well built box, probably designed by someone on this site as a supporting vendor, could get you some better sound and output, but 'eh...... as for your power source.... yes, i have seen many hondas, and other imporyd, and they are not liberal on the main power cables.... just enough to support some stock low current bullshit. i would upgrade to at least a 4awg big 3 and make sure your grounding system is up to par. likely, it is good enough for a 40-60a load, if that.
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Similar threads
- Started by EricF
- Subwoofers 2 3
- Started by Rhino3207
- General Car Audio
- Started by Cromer
- General Car Audio
About this thread
- Start date
- Participants
- Who Replied
- Replies
- 18
- Views
- 3,110
- Last reply date
- Last reply from
- dipitydoo
