Jl Audio Sucks...

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

well jl sucks too and i got **** jl's

but when u get buy 1 get 1 free, you tend to say that they don't ****....

after blowing like 4 of them though and yet another one yesterday.....

they pretty much ****.....

(w6v2 and w7 don't **** - but JL sucks for pricing them mo fo's so dang high) Also for makin w7 3ohm DUMB A$$ STUPID SUMMMA *ITCHES!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

 

[denim 5,000+ posts]

who was the one that just blew a W3?

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

ME I BLEW W3

LIKE 4 DIFFERENT ONES BACK IN JULY...

JUST BLEW A DANG JLW3V2 THREE DAYS AGO.

 

[MikeofTulsa Moderator]

just a quesiton about you blowing your w3's.....how much power were you sending them and how were they wired and were your gains set right???? cause i doubt you'd have blown them if all 3 of those things were set properly

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

umm

ok, the place where i got them installed the subs.. and wired everything

i had 2 d4's wired at 1ohm.

running 1000 watts total, 500 a piece..

i konw its the max,

i was told if u send them subs pure watts w/o distortion and clipping, they won't blow

umm, had amp tuned and everything

now i'm tryint somethin different

2 d2 wired where they are 2ohms total

um, amp sending 750 watts now 375 a piece

75 watts over rms per sub..

the d2 supposed to have better exh. too so i'm told than the d4's

 

[Gauntlet 5,000+ posts]

i konw its the max,i was told if u send them subs pure watts w/o distortion and clipping, they won't blow

Um, maybe for a short little span it wont blow, but constantly they will. Although you know this seeing as you blew 4 of them. Did the shop installing your system tell you that?

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

yup...... shop said

if u send it clean watts good box etc......

bunch of crap

i'm gettin my 3rd one.... kid is selling me a 12w3v2 for $50 tomorrow....

might as well have three shoot!

 

[excelonperu 10+ year member]

500 RMS for each w3 is too much, they can go only up to 300RMS

I dont think they ****, I plan getting a single 10" w3v2 d4 for $130, I dont think thats expensive, and I would say their SQ with the proper RMS is awesome

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

ok good for you....

i know the rms .......

i am now sending about 375 to each speaker......

we'll see if it blows now....... its still in a ported box made by the shop to match specs on the website.... we'll see.......

 

[Gauntlet 5,000+ posts]

What are the port dimensions? I wouldnt trust anything that shop says/does after telling you that with a clean signal you can send a sub its max power constantly and it wont blow.

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

not in a ported box u can'T SEND A SUBS ITS MAX ....

both subs didn't blow the 4th time just the sub righ tnext to the port

i trust the shop..........

its called hifi buys........

pretty large around here.......

AUDIO, VIDEO, AND A BOAT LOAD OF KNOW HOW.....

 

[Gauntlet 5,000+ posts]

not in a ported box u can'T SEND A SUBS ITS MAX .... both subs didn't blow the 4th time just the sub righ tnext to the port

So you say its not in a ported box, but the one sub right next to the port blew? Which is it? And you should NEVER send a sub its max, regardless of the enclosure, thats why its called the max. You should always follow the RMS, or root the mean square. Its simple mathematics and basic knowledge (no offense to you, but to the shop that told you that)

I wouldn't trust the shop if I were you. Those subs never should have blown once, much less 4 times. My friend as 2 JL 12W3V2's hooked up to a Crossfire VR600D (300x2 @ 2 ohms). It has decent SPL, **** good SQ, and has shown absolutely no signs of coming close to blowing in the 6 months hes had them. That shop telling you it's ok to send a sub its max is absolutely retarted.

Also, Best Buy is pretty big around here, very big actually, yet I would never buy a product from there other than wires or something of the like, and I sure as hell wouldn't ask them for advice on a system or installation. The analogy may or may not apply in your case, but you see the point i'm making.

The amp you have now should be much more efficient, just be careful with the gains.

That's just my 2 cents.

 

[limitkid7 5,000+ posts]

yea i know about hte rms...

i knew then too..

they were just tellin me that jl is supposed to be that **** good where it don't matter.....

of course then i was dumb and didn't know stuff and was like really a jl can handle that, they like yup....s o i did it..

i had subs in ports and sealed boxes....

but after gettin their box from the store that matched specs and stuff, supposed to be the correct box and everything, w/slot port on right side of box in front, i don't have a pic.... but yea it blew...

so now i'm sending 375 when rms is 300 everything should be fine now...

but i want to add another sub...... have it running at 1.3 ohm then.... thanks for info though, its always good to have reassurance.....

 

[ss3079 5,000+ posts]

Just thought I'd add one thing - the peak power of a sub literally means nothing...pay attention to the RMS and you'll be fine.

- Steve

 

[BenTLocK 10+ year member]

i dont understand people! why people will go back to a sub after its blown on them..

sure theres that 50%, that dont hook it up right or volume masters..

but after about the 2nd sub blown.. dont u think its time to move on and find better?

jl is sq...

i shit on sq.. lol