JL Audio HD1200 with Alpine Type R Help!

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tjmackay

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Hello All,

Really appreciate all of the information available in this forum and have been setting up purchases based on many of the threads. I have a 2009 Dodge Ram and after driving my son's car (not factory audio) I realized I needed to upgrade my factory stereo. I can only get away with so much at a time (being married with children), so I am starting with an amp and subwoofer addition to the factory audio and will go from there (eventually plan on all new speakers and head unit). I love music (all genres sans "country" or "western" and have no interest in letting other people hear what I am listening to. That being said, hearing AWOL Nation's "Sail" in my son's car sounded REALLY good.

I have purchased a Fox DQC-212-V box (2-12" VENTED SUB BOX, AIR VOLUME: 1.55 CUBIC FEET PER SIDE, DIVIDED: YES, PORT/VENT TUNE FREQUENCY: 35 Hz, MAX FRAME SIZE: 13", MOUNTING HOLE SIZE: 11.125", MOUNTING DEPTH: 7.25" WITH A 6.5" DIAMETER MAGNET). I have read everything I could find on the topic and have discussed the options with Mr. Fox and it appears as if the 12" Alpine Type "R" is the way to go (12" subwoofer with dual 4 or 2-ohm voice coils, Kevlar reinforced pulp cone with HAMRS Santoprene rubber surround, frequency response: 24-200 Hz, power handling: 300-1,000 watts RMS (500 watts per coil), peak power: 3,000 watts, sensitivity: 84.7 dB, top-mount, depth: 6-3/8", sealed box volume: 0.75-1.00 cu. ft., ported box volume: 1.25-1.50 cu. ft.). Moreover, I am inclined based on suggestion to go with the JL Audio HD1200 amp ( mono subwoofer amplifer 1,200 watts RMS x 1 (rated power from 1.5 to 4 ohms), variable high- and low-pass filter (50-500 Hz 12 or 24dB/octave), switchable subsonic filter (30 Hz) and output polarity control, Single Cycle Control Class D amplifier design, 10-13/16"W x 2"H x 8-13/16"D) and hear good things about this combination in this box with my truck.

My questions for those of you who have more experience and knowledge than I (which is basically everyone who reads this) is; 1) high / low converter to use the stock head unit versus a digital audio output option, 2) 2 ohm versus 4 ohm option on the Type "R" with this or a similar amp, 3) opinions on the set up I am looking toward?

Appreciate advice, feedback, warnings, etc. ~ and extend thanks in advance for your effort!

 
I would save the money your gonna spend on a converter box and get a new head unit first. Factory head units clip low, and they sound like **** when amplified with line level. Get yourself an aftermarket double din first, then upgrade subs from there. My shop did an install for a customer, all custom, 28 speakers in a f-350 dually with a stock head unit ($5k+). Sounded like crap even with 2 JL subs. Upgraded to an aftermarket unit and removed the line driver and holy **** what a difference. Just my

Opinion though. Good luck!

 
I would save the money your gonna spend on a converter box and get a new head unit first. Factory head units clip low, and they sound like **** when amplified with line level. Get yourself an aftermarket double din first, then upgrade subs from there. My shop did an install for a customer, all custom, 28 speakers in a f-350 dually with a stock head unit ($5k+). Sounded like crap even with 2 JL subs. Upgraded to an aftermarket unit and removed the line driver and holy **** what a difference. Just myOpinion though. Good luck!
Really appreciate the advice! I took it and went with a PIONEER AVH-X5500BHS instead of the converter.

 
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tjmackay

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