JL Audio 10W1v2-4

IMHO not a very good sub. Lot's of better options in that price range and just a little more. If you already have it, JL is notorious for recommending too small of a box. What you get is higher spl and less low end bass. The .7 is fine. Also a pound of polyfill would help. The shame is this is not a very good sq sub, which I am assuming is what you want it for. As for your amp the gain could be turned down where it could be safe for the sub.

There are dozens of good subs in that price range. Here is one example Eclipse SW6010 - 10" Subwoofers - Sonic Electronix Run it from 350-500 with your eclipse and it will sound wonderful. They sound better than a w3v3, much less a w1v2.

Blessings

 
Awesome. Yeah I didn't get the JL yet. Figured I would post on here first for an opinion. I do want the sub for SQ purposes. I listen to a lot of rock music and want to hear HARD clear bass drum hits. I assume the sealed box is better for that? Never dealt with polyfill before.

Just checked out that Eclipse sub and the specs look great for the price. I think i'm gonna snag it. I never wired a Dual Voice Coil sub before. Do I just bridge the connections on it?

Thanks for your reply.

 
Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams, One 4 ohm Dual Voice Coil (DVC) Speaker Use the top one for a 2 ohm load @ 500 watts. Both positives to single positive output on amp. Both negatives to single negative output on amp. Don't just trust my opinion either. There is a lot of brand loyalty in car audio. Personally I run more w7 than any other subs, but at any rate I could be a schmuck that thinks brand x is the best out there even though it's not so wait on more input or search online for reviews of the sub. But yes it will kick hard to rock accurately. It is by no means an spl sub but will put out descent sound levels and more importantly sound good doing it. They even handle the crazy sub bass like korn has.

Sealed boxes are good for tight quick response. The sub can generally recover quicker for extremely fast drum beats like say slipknot or classic metallica. They are generally regarded as the best sq boxes. Maybe one of these guys can link you up to a polyfil tutorial. Basically it can give you a small percentage of db output. It is just pillow stuffing from walmart.

 
Sub Box Polyester Fiberfill

Generally most folks use a ratio of 1lb/1ft3. I use a little over usually 1.25 or so per cubic foot. The stuffing increases db of the low notes. .5-1.0 lb would most likely get you going well. The idea is for it to break up the internal waves and dissipate heat. So it needs to be fluffed up. I use wood glue to secure it in several places and just try to keep it in one big piece. What you are doing is making the box act as if it is larger than .7. The bigger the box the more pronounced the low deep bass. An easy way since you have not used it before may be to use none at all. Listen for a while, then put in a full pound. If you do not like, grab a hand full and try again. Each person's likes are subjective, so just tune it how you want it to sound. When you get it there just secure what's left with wood glue or staples. It would probably never hurt a woofer. But the stuff feels coarse and I just never liked the idea of it rubbing on a cone for years on end. If you ever go ported you can use it as well. Just staple screen to the back of the port to keep little puffs from blowing all over the car.

Good Luck

 
I'll give the polyfill a shot. Seems straight forward enough. Will probably use a lb judging by your recommendation or slightly less 9/10ths of a pound. I'll see what I can do about securing it in a slight distance from the woofer. The eclipse sub is getting to my place on 5/19 so i'll come back and tell you what I think =D. Thanks man.

 
No, problem just pm me if you run into any trouble. If the box is not sealed up inside you may want to go ahead and put silicone in every corner internally. Just caulking. Wear a rubber glove and run your finger over the bead to make a uniform seal. Allow 24 hours to dry before the sub goes in. The fumes during drying can damage some subs.

 
Never had a problem with the W1's for budget, low-power SQL. They can be had for ~$99.

Though there are many other options, my experience with these guys was overall positive.

I experimented with a 12w1v2 and it proved very hard to blow even when abused, decent SQ and output when in a quality enclosure.

I will add that I haven't had an Eclipse sub that didn't impress me. Just no experience with that exact woofer.

Best of luck, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

 
Quick question I thought up. The Eclipse amp is 350rms @4ohms. 500rms @2ohms. Is the DVC sub I'm getting going to be running at the 2ohm 500rms? I'm almost certain you answered this. Is that what you meant by "2 ohm load @ 500 watts"? You were speaking with my current amp in mind? I'm just a very specific person. Sorry if its a dumb question. haha

 
If your sub is DVC 4 ohm, then yes it will be wired in Parallel to 2 ohm and you should just be more mindful when setting your amp's gain. Headroom is a good thing, not a bad thing. So don't be worried about it.

If it is a DVC 2 ohm sub then it can be wired in Series to 4 ohm, which would work just fine as well.

There are many wiring support pages to use when it comes to this, I'll try to find one...

Here:

JL Audio - Car Audio Systems

Best of luck //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Also you of coarse don't have to run it at 500 rms. Blend it in with the gain to match your system. Depending on your highs, 250-350 should be plenty. There is only 3 db output difference between 250 and 500 rms. The one I have is in a 32 ford coupe, not very big inside. It's running off an orion hcca 250 @ 400 watts, but really about 250-275 with the gain down. You can face the sub 4 or 5 inches from the rear of the trunk and pick up 6-12 db. In doing so it loads the sub so you can apply less wattage. Less wattage means a longer life for the sub and amp. My orions are 15 years old or better and still going strong.

 
I've got some Polk db401 in the front and db651 back. Just powered by the Alpine head unit they sound excellent. Good mids and they have a great tweeter for the highs. Either of you ever dealt with Alpines and the settings for a sub?

I used to have the bass center frequency set to 200Hz @ the second lowest bandwidth. Sounded really good with my MTX thunder4202 amp and my Infinity Kappa Perfect VQ 10" SVC sub. I currently have the Infinity sub in the box(and xa1200 amp) I plan on using for the eclipse sub. The Kappa in the old box and mtx amp sounded really clear and got surprisingly loud at -7 bass setting(all the way down). In the new box and amp, It seems I have to have the bass set to 0 or 1 for it to be as loud as the old setup, I also changed the head unit to 80Hz bass center frequency @ the same bandwidth because it sounds better than 200Hz in this setup. How will the new eclipse sub compare to the kappa(when it was new)?

I also realize my Infinity sub is probably nearing 5 years old now. But it doesn't seem to be hitting correctly anymore no matter how I fine tune the amp and head unit. There is also a slight rattle sound coming from the woofer, I've read before that can be the glue coming off of the dust cap.

When I swap out the Infinity for the Eclipse sub i've got some really good wood glue from a guy I work with. I'm going to seal the screw holes before putting in the new sub. Should I cut away the carpeting and seal from the outside? I'm not sure how this is typically done, but I've read it's recommended.

 
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