JL Audio 1000/1 Problems

RamenNoodles
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Recently I purchased a JL Audio 1000/1 Class D Mono Amp. For the time being I had 2 12" kicker comps hooked up to it until my 2 12w7s came. I recently kinda blew the subbox with my new amp. (the top piece came lose and began to rattle, but subs still worked. Gave off this awful vibration noise) So i have been keeping my subs turned down very low so I dont really hear much bass.

When I went to turn up my subs to see if the box was still messed up, the amp just cut out. I have never had this problem before at the volume I had it at. The subs arent very power hungry at all so the amp should have been fine. I have a 2.4F cap by soundquest hooked up to the amp as well just for extra support and a soundquest 3 or 4 gauge battery wire as well.

Does anybody have any ideas what could have gone wrong? Is there a fuse blown in the amp somewhere? I cannot see if there are built in fuses on the amp. I am really hoping this thing isnt fried.

If anyone has any suggestions, please put your sought after input in!

Thanks

Shayne

 
I would check the fuse under the hood, and then check the exterior fuses on the amp. I can't remember if the 1000/1 had exterior fuses or not, but this should be your start. If that doesn't work, take the top plate off of the amp, and post the pics of the guts here online. Their are many things that can be determined from there.

 
Well Im not exactly as skilled as you all so Im not really sure what I am looking for when it comes to fuses. I opened up the amp/batt cable and looked at the fuse but couldnt really tell what I was looking at. And I looked around on the amp for any fuse slots and didnt see any. I Just bought the amp brand new so nothing should be seriously wrong with it. And I am pretty sure I am pushing enough power to the amp, I have a brand new Optima (red top) with 800 Cold Cranking amps and 1000 regular amps. But I Will have my friend take a looksee at the fuses.

ANy other suggestions?

 
These are fuses in this picture over on the left in red

OrionAmp4Sale2.jpg


 
Pull out the fuse, and see if it's blown. If it's blown, the connection inside of it will be separated, if it's good, then it should be still connected inside.

 
No, the retail is 1000$, I paid 650 shipped for it. All the car audio places near me try to nickel and dime you to death so I got it off ebay. But I did purchase a square trade warranty is anything happened to it, so hopefully if anything is seriously wrong with it, they will cover it. And I will check out those fuses tonight. Thanks man.

 
too much "special bass" power. get a new amp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif :laugh:

I read that too......

 
too much "special bass" power. get a new amp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
I dont get it. I didnt touch any of the knobs, they were all set on the lowest settings possible, I was straining the amp at all.

 
I dont get it. I didnt touch any of the knobs, they were all set on the lowest settings possible, I was straining the amp at all.
This has nothing to do with your post. That was said in an Egay ad, by some idiot trying to make a sale.

 
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RamenNoodles

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