Jbl club - car sound install to a 3 door polo

[THEGTOWNER]

Hi There.

I am new here.

So I have done a couple (like 5 installations) into my own vehicles and fiends cars.

Anyways I fitted some new kit and can't figure out why my amp is over heating and only shutting down the sub's channel any help would be appreciated.

The install.

Pioneer Bluetooth head unit.

JBL S3-1224 sub (switch flipped to 2 ohm)

JBL 6500 Club splits

JBL Coaxial's (can't remember the product code but it's from the club range)

JBL CLUB 4505 amplifier.

Wiring kit - mtx street.

Amp is mounted directly to the back seat.

All speakers are wired direct to the amp with new wiring didn't use any of the wiring in the harness.

Signal is sent to the amp with 4 rca cables (1 splitting into 2 so I have 6 inputs into the amp)

The door speakers are not bridged connected normally into their own channel.

The sub has a switch to take it down to 2 ohm's which I did.[emoji39]

Power to the amp is via a 4 gauge power cable and 4 gauge to the ground connection.

Tested for shorts to the body work and didn't get any. (Used a fluke multi meter to do this)

The amp is apparently 2 ohm stable. Advertised and on he box.

The issue I'm having is after an hour of playing time at high volume the amp gets really hot to the touch.

Also the sub channel will cut off for 2-3 seconds during a song with heavy Base.

I haven't installed a cap and do notice the interior light dim when the Base is playing.

Just looking for advise on these two matters.

Would the heating be due to the amp not getting enough juice or poor grounding?

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[Wellyboy]

Hi There.
I am new here.

So I have done a couple (like 5 installations) into my own vehicles and fiends cars.

Anyways I fitted some new kit and can't figure out why my amp is over heating and only shutting down the sub's channel any help would be appreciated.

The install.

Pioneer Bluetooth head unit.

JBL S3-1224 sub (switch flipped to 2 ohm)

JBL 6500 Club splits

JBL Coaxial's (can't remember the product code but it's from the club range)

JBL CLUB 4505 amplifier.

Wiring kit - mtx street.

Amp is mounted directly to the back seat.

All speakers are wired direct to the amp with new wiring didn't use any of the wiring in the harness.

Signal is sent to the amp with 4 rca cables (1 splitting into 2 so I have 6 inputs into the amp)

The door speakers are not bridged connected normally into their own channel.

The sub has a switch to take it down to 2 ohm's which I did.[emoji39]

Power to the amp is via a 4 gauge power cable and 4 gauge to the ground connection.

Tested for shorts to the body work and didn't get any. (Used a fluke multi meter to do this)

The amp is apparently 2 ohm stable. Advertised and on he box.

The issue I'm having is after an hour of playing time at high volume the amp gets really hot to the touch.

Also the sub channel will cut off for 2-3 seconds during a song with heavy Base.

I haven't installed a cap and do notice the interior light dim when the Base is playing.

Just looking for advise on these two matters.

Would the heating be due to the amp not getting enough juice or poor grounding?

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Play it at the highest volume that it will allows you to, check the power led on the amp to see if it flickers, if it does its either a power issue or if it's flickering in tune with the sub cranking bass notes it cannot handle the subwoofer. You also need to check the AH on your battery.. Any less than 80 an your asking for trouble. The amp heating problem is due to the fact that it may not be putting out enough power to keep everything going an is being strained
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[THEGTOWNER]

Play it at the highest volume that it will allows you to, check the power led on the amp to see if it flickers, if it does its either a power issue or if it's flickering in tune with the sub cranking bass notes it cannot handle the subwoofer. You also need to check the AH on your battery.. Any less than 80 an your asking for trouble. The amp heating problem is due to the fact that it may be putting out enough power to keep everything going an is being strained
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Thank you what does AH stand for? If it's less than 80 how can I get it up?
The gains are only at 60 % and the amp is stronger than everything except for the sub that is matched w for w

 

[Wellyboy]

Your speakers + sub is asking for over 2200watts (not rms) your amp is only putting out 1800watts max.... There's your deliemma.

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[Wellyboy]

Thank you what does AH stand for? If it's less than 80 how can I get it up?
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It stand for amp hours... That's the batterys electrical endurance for your cars electric system... I normally suggest 100ah with an upgraded alternator.
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[THEGTOWNER]

Your speakers + sub is asking for over 2200watts (not rms) your amp is only putting out 1800watts max.... There's your deliemma.
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I get that but I haven't turned it up all the way or will the amp imediatly just try to deliver that regardless of the gain settings
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[THEGTOWNER]

Ok cool thank you. If I upgrade the alternator and battery do I need a cap?

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[Wellyboy]

Thank you what does AH stand for? If it's less than 80 how can I get it up?
The gains are only at 60 % and the amp is stronger than everything except for the sub that is matched w for w

Their matched in rms not heat rating.. You amp needs to have atleast a 40% higher heating rating (watts) than the sub so that it can run cool or it will overheat in minutes at high volume
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[Wellyboy]

Ok cool thank you. If I upgrade the alternator and battery do I need a cap?
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I Dnt ever recommend one no matter the setup. But if you upgrade both then no you won't need one your not running any real power. It's a polo I know polos have 55_65 AH batterys.
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[THEGTOWNER]

Their matched in rms not heat rating.. You amp needs to have atleast a 40% higher heating rating (watts) than the sub so that it can run cool or it will overheat in minutes at high volume
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Shoot so the right way is to get a strong mono block for the sub and let the 5 just run the 4 speakers?
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[Wellyboy]

Shoot so the right way is to get a strong mono block for the sub and let the 5 just run the 4 speakers?
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Get an amp that's cea rated to 500rms an 2000watts for the sub I recommend you the alpine MRX M55.. Then you should do fine.. An run those speakers 2ohm.
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[THEGTOWNER]

I'd like to stick with JBL if possible. The door speakers are currently set to 2.5 ohm from the factory don't know how they got that right

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---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

 

The sub is rated 500 w rms and 1500 max

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[THEGTOWNER]

Thank you for the advise I'll look into the changes

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[Wellyboy]

I'd like to stick with JBL if possible. The door speakers are currently set to 2.5 ohm from the factory don't know how they got that right
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---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:47 AM ----------

 

The sub is rated 500 w rms and 1500 max

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Well.. Tbh... Jbl makes good subs. But their amps are nowhere near as good especially in the lower to mid range ones... An in what you have posted you prove me correct.. Alpine make **** good amps.. The 1 i recommended won't cost you neither arm nor leg. Do some research. Ask around an hear what other people have to say. If you really wana stay jbl then the GTR 1001 is your best option.
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[THEGTOWNER]

Awesome thank you for the advise I'll look into all the upgrades.

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