it has to be the alt right?

Ok, so I am charging my batt now. Used my batt tester to check the alt and it says it is bad. I am really confused, cause this is suppose to be a tested, working alt. I am going to take it off tonight or tomorrow and have it tested and possibly rewound. I have checked as much as I can see between the alt and batt, and nothing seems to be bad, and none of my fuses are burnt. So I am stuck in a ****** position. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Ok, so I am charging my batt now. Used my batt tester to check the alt and it says it is bad. I am really confused, cause this is suppose to be a tested, working alt. I am going to take it off tonight or tomorrow and have it tested and possibly rewound. I have checked as much as I can see between the alt and batt, and nothing seems to be bad, and none of my fuses are burnt. So I am stuck in a ****** position. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
did you turn the car on and use your dmm to see voltage right off the charging post?

 
did you turn the car on and use your dmm to see voltage right off the charging post?
No, what setting do I set it to? Dont use my DMM much, Lol. I will do that in a lil. Lets say that it is giving off between 13.5-14.4 (I assume this is good), then there is an issue between the batt and alt, right? My car is cheap and not very electrical, so I would assume there is a burnt wire or something in this context. My PCM could be bad, but I would doubt that it would start at all, also I am going no fault codes at all. Just the electrical system light... And you said use the case as the negative, right?

 
No, what setting do I set it to? Dont use my DMM much, Lol. I will do that in a lil. Lets say that it is giving off between 13.5-14.4 (I assume this is good), then there is an issue between the batt and alt, right? My car is cheap and not very electrical, so I would assume there is a burnt wire or something in this context. My PCM could be bad, but I would doubt that it would start at all, also I am going no fault codes at all. Just the electrical system light... And you said use the case as the negative, right?
use the bracket as negative. but just turn your dmm on voltage as you would to check the voltage in your batts. if your running around 13.5-14.4 then yeah your within tolerance.

 
You get it figured out? Ive put 2 diff alts in, including the stock, and my **** is still messed up... Its gotta be an issue in the wiring, relay, etc. I took one of the alts off and the guy said it was fine. I actually removed it, not testing it through the batt. And the batt is good too, got it tested.

 
got into my car this morning and while i am pulling out of the drive way i see my voltage at 11.7 WTF. so i stopped turned off my radio and unpulged the power on my amps and drove to work. i figured i had been draining the electrical too much and the batts needed a charge. as i am driving my voltage dips down to the 10.9x and it starts to worry me. i thought maybe a fuse between the alt and the voltmeter is blown but nope there was not a blown fuse anywhere. so i take out my multimeter just now while i am on lunch and see that with my car on my front batt is at 11.5V.
it has to be the alt right?
here is what happened. all that **** killed your alt. get a better/ stronger alt and double check the batteries, make sure they are all good. and then check for shorts

 
You get it figured out? Ive put 2 diff alts in, including the stock, and my **** is still messed up... Its gotta be an issue in the wiring, relay, etc. I took one of the alts off and the guy said it was fine. I actually removed it, not testing it through the batt. And the batt is good too, got it tested.
its in the wiring. check in the fuse box under the hood for the main alt fuse/relay.

 
its in the wiring. check in the fuse box under the hood for the main alt fuse/relay.
Yea, thats what I am doing now. I did some more research and some people were saying that the volt regulator is in the PCM. I found one for $160 but dont want to spend that if that isnt it. One guy said I could buy a 14V regulator between the alt and batt and that would work, but I am having trouble finding one.

 
Yea, thats what I am doing now. I did some more research and some people were saying that the volt regulator is in the PCM. I found one for $160 but dont want to spend that if that isnt it. One guy said I could buy a 14V regulator between the alt and batt and that would work, but I am having trouble finding one.
it doesnt surprise me at all that the regulator is ran through the PCM. thats what i was saying to one of you earlier in the thread. yeah you could but that probably wont solve your issue, especially if the PCM controls the alt. Also who tested the alt for you?

 
There is a fusible link that goes from the alt to the starter and it was burnt up! I am so relieved. There was no current going form the alt to the batt. Thanks for all your help! For real! I am going to replace it now, wish me luck.

 
There is a fusible link that goes from the alt to the starter and it was burnt up! I am so relieved. There was no current going form the alt to the batt. Thanks for all your help! For real! I am going to replace it now, wish me luck.
good luck bro. glad you figured it out, and i could help (if indeed i did at all). now go get it fixed and get back to bass

 
Glad u found the problem bro. I replaced my alt and bat and now everything is going well. I left my amps unplugged so I can charge the batts I'm the trunk for a while. Hopefully tomoroe my batts will be up to 14 volts and I'll have my bass back!!!!

 
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