Iraggi alt whining

oh so they have a fan in them didnt know that, that maybe what it is then, ut hopefully tommorrow i can get some strain applied to the alt so i can see whats up wit it, see if its working properly

 
yea that supercharger sound gets on my nerves, cause i know i dont have one. Do u still get surges when playing wit ur power windows and locks, mines is slight but i would think a bigger alt would eliminate that with the big three done

what do you mean surges? confused

 
yea that supercharger sound gets on my nerves, cause i know i dont have one. Do u still get surges when playing wit ur power windows and locks, mines is slight but i would think a bigger alt would eliminate that with the big three done
That's caused by bad grounds in your factory electronics... Power windows are known for this. it's also because the power supply for window regulators are, um, unregulated... They'll take in tons of power, and almost always cause voltage drops.

Honestly, you may wanna get a cap...... They give all your electronics that burst of power they need and prevent voltage drops between the time your accessories take those big gulps of power, and when your alt. starts making the power to compensate for it.

So rather than your alternator's exciter line getting signals like /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\, it gets smoothed draws like ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If that makes any sense?

I've got two caps, two batts, and that iraggi alt now, and it's the first car i've ever owned where i can pull the window switches up, while the windows are already all the way closed, and my lights don't dim. It's impressive in an extraordinarily dorky way. Before, even with my stereo turned off, if i was sitting at idle, and pulled the switches up, my headlights and dash lights would dim, and my idle would drop a few rpm's.... If that's what's going on with yours.

 
That's caused by bad grounds in your factory electronics... Power windows are known for this. it's also because the power supply for window regulators are, um, unregulated... They'll take in tons of power, and almost always cause voltage drops.
Honestly, you may wanna get a cap...... They give all your electronics that burst of power they need and prevent voltage drops between the time your accessories take those big gulps of power, and when your alt. starts making the power to compensate for it.

So rather than your alternator's exciter line getting signals like /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\, it gets smoothed draws like ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If that makes any sense?

I've got two caps, two batts, and that iraggi alt now, and it's the first car i've ever owned where i can pull the window switches up, while the windows are already all the way closed, and my lights don't dim. It's impressive in an extraordinarily dorky way.

yea thats kinda weird that it does that i hate that, i will post pics of my engine bay and system installed as soon as i get my cousins camera cause mines ****

 
That's caused by bad grounds in your factory electronics... Power windows are known for this. it's also because the power supply for window regulators are, um, unregulated... They'll take in tons of power, and almost always cause voltage drops.
Honestly, you may wanna get a cap...... They give all your electronics that burst of power they need and prevent voltage drops between the time your accessories take those big gulps of power, and when your alt. starts making the power to compensate for it.

So rather than your alternator's exciter line getting signals like /\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\, it gets smoothed draws like ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

If that makes any sense?

I've got two caps, two batts, and that iraggi alt now, and it's the first car i've ever owned where i can pull the window switches up, while the windows are already all the way closed, and my lights don't dim. It's impressive in an extraordinarily dorky way. Before, even with my stereo turned off, if i was sitting at idle, and pulled the switches up, my headlights and dash lights would dim, and my idle would drop a few rpm's.... If that's what's going on with yours.

never thought of getting a cap for that reason. where do you have it located or wired too? thanks

 
I think they make window regulators that way so they still have enough ballz to crank your windows up when your car is off.

Same reason the motors burn up so easy if they're frozen and you try and crank 'em.

 
i have my caps wired directly to the second battery, have a zero gauge positive and a zero gauge negative coming directly off the batt, going to a 1 0-gauge in, two 4-gauge out distro. block, and they're just hooked straight up to the caps.

I don't think you need anything that big, tho, you could probably get a little .5 farad cap, and wire it up to the battery cable leading into your car, under the hood. I just happened to have these caps lying around, because both of them came with prior wiring kits i had in my cars, and figured they couldn't hurt to toss 'em in. But ya, it's just a little bonus. Idle doesn't drop anymore if the a/c kicks in at idle, either, or the rad. fan kicks in. Nothing anyone but me would notice in my car, ya know?

 
i have my caps wired directly to the second battery, have a zero gauge positive and a zero gauge negative coming directly off the batt, going to a 1 0-gauge in, two 4-gauge out distro. block, and they're just hooked straight up to the caps.
I don't think you need anything that big, tho, you could probably get a little .5 farad cap, and wire it up to the battery cable leading into your car, under the hood. I just happened to have these caps lying around, because both of them came with prior wiring kits i had in my cars, and figured they couldn't hurt to toss 'em in. But ya, it's just a little bonus. Idle doesn't drop anymore if the a/c kicks in at idle, either, or the rad. fan kicks in. Nothing anyone but me would notice in my car, ya know?

yea, so you have your caps wired under your hood on the wire that goes off your batt for your stock electrical stuff?

 
yea, so you have your caps wired under your hood on the wire that goes off your batt for your stock electrical stuff?

It's all one circuit, so it doesn't really matter where it is. Just like how you can unhook your under-the-hood battery, and the battery in the back will still power the car. Mine are in the back, on batt. #2, and it's still helping for said problems. But getting a small one under the hood would also work, if you didn't want to have a cap in the back.

I actually have the two caps ziptied together, and they're mounted along with the second battery in the factory cd-changer compartment in the back, just for asthetic reasons. They're both chrome, and black was my system's theme, also nice in case they decide to blow up or something crazy, the fenderwells are decked out with fire insulation from the factory.

 
It's all one circuit, so it doesn't really matter where it is. Just like how you can unhook your under-the-hood battery, and the battery in the back will still power the car. Mine are in the back, on batt. #2, and it's still helping for said problems. But getting a small one under the hood would also work, if you didn't want to have a cap in the back.

cool thanks man. i think im going to get (2 or 3) 1 farad fosgate caps then to help with that rpm dim. i notice weird stuff like that in my car. i think i watch my volt meter more than my speedometer. lol

 
Isn't there such thing as a batt-cap, too? Like a battery, with a quick output, fast recharge powercell built in? You could replace a battery with something like that, and save yourself extra wiring.

Don't know how much stuff like that costs, tho.

And one farad's probably good for that purpose, isn't a farad like 100A for 1 second or 1A for 100 seconds or something like that?

Remember, you're just trying to supply those instant-on electronics with power for that short instance between when you switch it on, or when it switches itself on, and when your voltage regulator triggers your alternator on, which is 1/10ths of a second.

There was a link to an article explaining the true usage of caps a few weeks ago, i'll see if i can find it before i leave for Philly.

 
Isn't there such thing as a batt-cap, too? Like a battery, with a quick output, fast recharge powercell built in? You could replace a battery with something like that, and save yourself extra wiring.
Don't know how much stuff like that costs, tho.

And one farad's probably good for that purpose, isn't a farad like 100A for 1 second or 1A for 100 seconds or something like that?

Remember, you're just trying to supply those instant-on electronics with power for that short instance between when you switch it on, or when it switches itself on, and when your voltage regulator triggers your alternator on, which is 1/10ths of a second.

There was a link to an article explaining the true usage of caps a few weeks ago, i'll see if i can find it before i leave for Philly.

i had batcaps...they sucked lol im gonna go back to caps then haha

 
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