Installing aftermarket with stock HU - a bit of questioning!

[Krimsonviper]

Please, any and all help would be much appreciated.

I'm integrating aftermarket equipment into my stock head unit, plus it's been awhile since I've done an install and things are a little hazy. I know my RCA's need to ran on the side where my power wire is not on, but what about my speaker wire? Does my speaker wire need to be ran on the same side as my RCA cables or can the speaker wire be ran along the power wire just fine? I'm calculating how much wire I'll be needing.

I'm going to run a four channel amp and a separate amp for my sub, the LOC I have just has four RCA plug ins. How do I get the extra two channels for my four channel amp? I'm assuming my in cabin speakers will be giving up the controls to be either front and back, and I'll be using a Y-connector for the extra two channels? What are the consequences of doing a Y-connector? If not Y-connecting, what supplemental LOC do I need?

I've never done a master and slave amp system before so if that's my best bet, I'd like to go that route, but I would need help. I don't really tune, though I know I should, but I haven't a clue what I'm doing other than installing. Would I be better served with installing my equipment and then going somewhere for a tune?

I do know I don't really need my back speakers and people say I won't notice sound difference, but I've been in the back seat and the front seat of a nicely tuned car, I do notice a difference in both cases and it's a personal preference to me to have both front and back.

My information:

2010 Mazda 3 sedan with Bose

LOC PAC AOEM-MAZ2

JL 300/4 & 600/1

Four in cabin speakers JL XR570-CSi and C2 570-CXi

One JL W6v3

Click to read more...

 

[Krimsonviper]

Anybody at all?

 

[The Camry]

oh boy.

speaker wire can be ran next to rcas. an Electro magnetic wave is caused by any conductor with electricity running through it. Rcas pick up those floating em waves and it causes noise but the speaker wire has a relatively low current and thus its generally safe to run them next to your rcas. if you can help it though. Run them seperate of both. just to be safe. but its not a HUGE deal if you dont.

What worries me is you have a bose system and if those high level wires are actually sending a full range signal or not.

Anyway, nothing wrong with Y splitting. I think it may cause you to have less voltage per rca but that just means your gain will be slightly higher. Wont cause clipping or anything as long as your gain is setting correctly afterwards.

you seem to be pretty lost man and id do a TON more research before you jump into this. learn about crossovers and what speakers need what frequencies.

forget the master and slave crap. Thats when you wire rcas to one amp, and then jump from that amp to another with the signal. your not doing that here. you are bi-amping

 

[The Camry]

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-reference-database/534269-useful-web-links-car-audio-references.html

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Most importantly, you may have the wrong PAC adapter. Note it says "Not compatible with Bose amplifier".

when bypassing Bose systems, it is an all or nothing approach. we are most concerned with where we run RCA cable because that signal is amplified later. speaker-level signals are already amplified and we have a much lower concern about induced noise. run speaker wires where convenient, even next to power wire. i typically use the middle of the car to run all signal cabling because it's easier.

there is no "master-slave" concept to be used - because that would imply one amp controls the other. i suspect you describe using the RCA outputs on one amp to feed the other. that's just feed-thru.

 

[Krimsonviper]

oh boy.
speaker wire can be ran next to rcas. an Electro magnetic wave is caused by any conductor with electricity running through it. Rcas pick up those floating em waves and it causes noise but the speaker wire has a relatively low current and thus its generally safe to run them next to your rcas. if you can help it though. Run them seperate of both. just to be safe. but its not a HUGE deal if you dont.

What worries me is you have a bose system and if those high level wires are actually sending a full range signal or not.

Anyway, nothing wrong with Y splitting. I think it may cause you to have less voltage per rca but that just means your gain will be slightly higher. Wont cause clipping or anything as long as your gain is setting correctly afterwards.

you seem to be pretty lost man and id do a TON more research before you jump into this. learn about crossovers and what speakers need what frequencies.

forget the master and slave crap. Thats when you wire rcas to one amp, and then jump from that amp to another with the signal. your not doing that here. you are bi-amping

I haven't had a chance to go through all of the provided links. From a beginning stand point, it's a little overwhelming. Could you help to narrow down the links to focus my research? I know on my amplifier, talking with some family who have done amateur builds, my four channel should be set to high pass and put the hertz at eighty. I mentioned bi-amping to them and they gave me a bit of a blank look, but said that for a daily driver and will not be in any kind of competition, selecting the bi-amp feature in my crossover is not needed. Could you expand a little since my family couldn't?

As for the he sub, the low pass is to be selected and set at eighty hertz as well. That's about as far as my hands on turning experience I have.

Most importantly, you may have the wrong PAC adapter. Note it says "Not compatible with Bose amplifier".
when bypassing Bose systems, it is an all or nothing approach. we are most concerned with where we run RCA cable because that signal is amplified later. speaker-level signals are already amplified and we have a much lower concern about induced noise. run speaker wires where convenient, even next to power wire. i typically use the middle of the car to run all signal cabling because it's easier.

there is no "master-slave" concept to be used - because that would imply one amp controls the other. i suspect you describe using the RCA outputs on one amp to feed the other. that's just feed-thru.

Yes, feed through. My amps have a feature for a slave and and master features, which is what I thought it was called.

The LOC I have has been used before in an intermediate build I've read on another forum featuring a Bose system in my year car, but in a Mazdaspeed3 Bose and not a 3i Bose like mine. The only problem I've seen reported is that the remote wire on this LOC doesn't work and I will need to tap into another wire for the remote to turn the amps off, otherwise my amps will be constantly on with the provided remote wire.

I'm told that the front signal gives a close to flat base EQ and use those for in cabin speakers, if that's what you guys meant by full signal?

 

[Krimsonviper]

A link to one of the builds I'm referencing.

ETERNAL's 2010 MS3 SYSTEM BUILD LOG***UPDATE 13 DECEMBER PAGE 6...COMPLETED*** - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum

 

[The Camry]

Most importantly, you may have the wrong PAC adapter. Note it says "Not compatible with Bose amplifier".
when bypassing Bose systems, it is an all or nothing approach. we are most concerned with where we run RCA cable because that signal is amplified later. speaker-level signals are already amplified and we have a much lower concern about induced noise. run speaker wires where convenient, even next to power wire. i typically use the middle of the car to run all signal cabling because it's easier.

there is no "master-slave" concept to be used - because that would imply one amp controls the other. i suspect you describe using the RCA outputs on one amp to feed the other. that's just feed-thru.

hes feeding high level wires to a LOC. Just curious from your experience, how can a LOC not be compatible? Shouldnt it take a high level and convert it to the low level so he can send it to his JL amps. Like i said earlier. Im concerned that he isnt getting a full range signal from the High levels.

also, do you have any links for this guy so he a baseline of where to start getting information on install and tuning.

 

[The Camry]

I haven't had a chance to go through all of the provided links. From a beginning stand point, it's a little overwhelming. Could you help to narrow down the links to focus my research? I know on my amplifier, talking with some family who have done amateur builds, my four channel should be set to high pass and put the hertz at eighty. I mentioned bi-amping to them and they gave me a bit of a blank look, but said that for a daily driver and will not be in any kind of competition, selecting the bi-amp feature in my crossover is not needed. Could you expand a little since my family couldn't?
As for the he sub, the low pass is to be selected and set at eighty hertz as well. That's about as far as my hands on turning experience I have.

Yes, feed through. My amps have a feature for a slave and and master features, which is what I thought it was called.

The LOC I have has been used before in an intermediate build I've read on another forum featuring a Bose system in my year car, but in a Mazdaspeed3 Bose and not a 3i Bose like mine. The only problem I've seen reported is that the remote wire on this LOC doesn't work and I will need to tap into another wire for the remote to turn the amps off, otherwise my amps will be constantly on with the provided remote wire.

I'm told that the front signal gives a close to flat base EQ and use those for in cabin speakers, if that's what you guys meant by full signal?

Full range means 20hz-20khz. The bose system can split signals up to different speakers through the use of crossovers. For example it might send your door speakers 75hz-3khz and tweeters elsewhere 3khz-20khz. If you took the front high level wires and send them to an amp. You might be sending a 75-3khz signal to a subwoofer amplifier. You only want your subwoofer to play 80hz and below but if its not ever getting the 0-200hz(200 because crossovers let your speakers play frequencies after 80 hertz quieter and quieter(attentuated)) in the first place. you have an issue.

You are trying to get a full 20hz-20khz full range signal to your amp and then let your amps built it crossovers control what frequencies actually go to the speaker. This is an issue with Bose for the most part. Many aftermarket Head units will always give you a full range signal. I dont have any experience with Bose so its hard for me to really give you useful advice on that particular area.

 

[Krimsonviper]

I did a little digging after your explanation and this was probably the best I could come find that answers both of our questions about frequency. Look at post number nine. I think my signals should be good, if I'm understanding you correctly?

Need help, 2012 Mazda3 with Bose - Want to keep OEM H.U. but add sub/components/amps - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

If it is, maybe add it to a compendium of info for vehicle specific or system specific forum?

 

[The Camry]

I did a little digging after your explanation and this was probably the best I could come find that answers both of our questions about frequency. Look at post number nine. I think my signals should be good, if I'm understanding you correctly?
Need help, 2012 Mazda3 with Bose - Want to keep OEM H.U. but add sub/components/amps - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

If it is, maybe add it to a compendium of info for vehicle specific or system specific forum?

It seems to me then that your gold. Test to see if your Line out converter is compatible with your stereo or not. If its not, there are plenty of other options. I think its not compatible because the plug or wiring harness or whatever you want to call it, is designed to plug right into the back of your stereo. If it doesnt fit, you can easily just cut the **** plug off and splice the wires you need accordingly.

I think your golden on the 20-20khz

So heres what you are going to want to do.

Get the signal from the stereo to the amp. You will have to use your LOC to convert high level to low level. If you have just one pair of rcas that come out of your LOC. You will need to use two y splitters to get two left and two rcas. 4 single rca all together.

One pair of rcas goes to the left of the amp. One pair goes to the right. Set each on HPF( Not LPF and not OFF) and set it to around 80 with a -24 db slope.

then take the speaker leads cable out and wire it to the passive crossovers. This should be easy. there should be a place for a positive in and a negative in. Then a place for a positive out and negative out for your 6x8 and a place for your pos/neg out for your tweeter.

Youll have to use a y splitter again to get the L/R rca out for your sub amp. as for your sub amp. its similiar. plug in your rcas. set subsonic filter on. set LPF(not HPF not OFF) on 80 at 24 db, run wires to subs

You posted the speakers you are going to use. Did you mean just the speakers, or are you planning on hooking up the external crossovers(do you know what those are?) as well?

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-1188-xr570csi-jl-audio-5x76x8-xr-series-component.html

Thats what i get when i google your speaker. so just to clarify, you are installing the 6x8 and the tweeter yes?

Only issues i foresee are getting a LOC that works with bose. Many cheap locs have ground and noise issues. as well the amount of times you are using a y splitter. I dont know if that degrades the signal or severely lowers your voltage out from your rcas. This is when someone else can give you an answer on that.