installing a turbo

Well I just meant because your throwing more lbs. of boost, which is sort of irrelavent to his question, does not matter. It matters how much HP your putting down. It's all subjective to how much bigger the turbo is and EVERYTHING is tune dependent. Even your comment about the rings; tune dependent. If you have a good solid tune, you can make any mechanical part hold up. Hell I ran 300 HP on my fvckin Si for over 2 years before I built it, and even then my sleeves, rings and pistons (ALL STOCK) were still fine.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
wow, I love the childish online fighting. the dude is a noob trying to go Fast and Furious style. just point him to someone that really know the deal on DSM motors.

for DSM parts http://www.dsmtrader.com

for step by step DSM mods http://www.buschurracing.com

I built a 500+whp GSX back in '99 with Dave Buschur's step by step mods, which btw was mainly bolt-on and some ****** work. Dave Buschur even give you a step by step tune.

 
what are u kidding those cheaper rings will break after time with to much pressure even thoe its a turbo and would need heavier valve springs or it will make the valves chatter. but maybe im thiking he wants to race the thing everyday and beat on it. i might be thinking over kill then. my fualt.
no they won't. the rings are fine, good for 400hp all stock.

heavier valve springs my ***! no need for valvesprings unless you're putting a set of high lift cams in the head. do you even know what valvesprings do?

there is no correlation between valve springs and larger turbos.

300 whp is an easy cheap goal on these cars if you know what you're doing.

on a 2g its' a bit harder as the T25 just won't flow the air to make 300 hp.

so basically on a 2G this is the order to buy and install parts.

1. boost gauge and datalogger, so you know what the hell your ecu is doing. $100 if you know how to find deals.

2. fuel pump, without more fuel, you'll blow it up. $79 for a 255 lph. do the fuel pump rewire with a relay and run 15psi.

3. 3" downpipe and exhaust, no cats. $300

4. hi flwo air filter $40

5. manual boost controller $50

6. upgraded turbo, at least an evo3 16G. they can be had used for about $350. new they're about $500. keep it at 15psi or less until the new injectors are in.

7. front mount intercooler $250 off ebay, yeah they're chinese but they do the job.

8. safc, to control the fueldelivery, used about $150

9. injectors, about $200.

10. tune it at about 19-20psi and you'll easily be over 300whp.

anything else anyone says is bullshit.

http://www.dsmtuners.com

http://www.dsmtalk.com

http://www.vfaq.com

 
I'd try to find a Mitsubishi eclipse forum
no they won't. the rings are fine, good for 400hp all stock. heavier valve springs my ***! no need for valvesprings unless you're putting a set of high lift cams in the head. do you even know what valvesprings do?

there is no correlation between valve springs and larger turbos.

300 whp is an easy cheap goal on these cars if you know what you're doing.

on a 2g its' a bit harder as the T25 just won't flow the air to make 300 hp.

so basically on a 2G this is the order to buy and install parts.

1. boost gauge and datalogger, so you know what the hell your ecu is doing. $100 if you know how to find deals.

2. fuel pump, without more fuel, you'll blow it up. $79 for a 255 lph. do the fuel pump rewire with a relay and run 15psi.

3. 3" downpipe and exhaust, no cats. $300

4. hi flwo air filter $40

5. manual boost controller $50

6. upgraded turbo, at least an evo3 16G. they can be had used for about $350. new they're about $500. keep it at 15psi or less until the new injectors are in.

7. front mount intercooler $250 off ebay, yeah they're chinese but they do the job.

8. safc, to control the fueldelivery, used about $150

9. injectors, about $200.

10. tune it at about 19-20psi and you'll easily be over 300whp.

anything else anyone says is bullshit.

http://www.dsmtuners.com

http://www.dsmtalk.com

http://www.vfaq.com
What do ya know... Links to forums. ... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
i didnt want to be like this but my buddy brad at hahn racecraft the guru of those applications will tell him all he needs to know. call today i talked to him and he will be more that glad to tell him u dont know nothing.

ask for brad, hahn racecraft (630) 553-6830 yorkville, il

if u dont know bout them ur not a tuner at all.

 
I could get pretty close to 300 with one of these using mostly junkyard parts.

The problem is the head starts to be a bottleneck being only 8V, then you can either hog the piss out of it or do a 16v conversion

 
I could get pretty close to 300 with one of these using mostly junkyard parts.
The problem is the head starts to be a bottleneck being only 8V, then you can either hog the piss out of it or do a 16v conversion
4g63t's are 16v heads. stock head, stock cam is good up to about 400hp with the right turbo and tune.

 
i didnt want to be like this but my buddy brad at hahn racecraft the guru of those applications will tell him all he needs to know. call today i talked to him and he will be more that glad to tell him u dont know nothing.
ask for brad, hahn racecraft (630) 553-6830 yorkville, il

if u dont know bout them ur not a tuner at all.
i hope you 're not talking to me, because if you just talked to a guy at hahn, you obviously learned nothing from him, because all your info is wrong unless you're talking about the non turbo dsm's. maybe you need to call him again and listen to what he says closely. hahn definitely knows their stuff, they were one of the original 4g63 tuners but if this is the info you're getting from your guy up there, i suggest nobody ever go up there and buy anything from them or get advice ever again!

 
i hope you 're not talking to me, because if you just talked to a guy at hahn, you obviously learned nothing from him, because all your info is wrong unless you're talking about the non turbo dsm's. maybe you need to call him again and listen to what he says closely. hahn definitely knows their stuff, they were one of the original 4g63 tuners but if this is the info you're getting from your guy up there, i suggest nobody ever go up there and buy anything from them or get advice ever again!
yeah that my buddy thats the shop manager. he told me he would would do more upgrades but u didnt call him instead u want to talk shit on here while i offered a soutuion u just ignored so dont say anything more till u talk to brad aight. he said ur not the expert u clam to be i read to him the post and he laughted. dont get all mad.. he said ur a lil misinformed and that he would gladly talk this matter over with u on monday.
 
i got a quick question my friend has a 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX and wants to upgrade the turbo i was wondering if it was just as simple as changing the injectors and bolting on the new turbo
Throw on a 14b turbo off a 1g (90-94). There a little bigger than a t25 turbo which is what comes stock on 2g's (95-99). You can find a good condition 14b anywhere from $100-150. I actually have one layin around if your friends interested. You'll get a very noticable gain from doing this. Especially top end wise. Also get a boost controller and a boost gauge, and turn it up to 15psi. A full exhaust and a K&N air filter too. You'll swear you just picked up 100hp. A data logger is also a great idea as someone mentioned above.

Here's a link for a few free mods.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/sub.php?page=2gtstage0power

Also have your friend read the entire vfaq a few times over. This will tell you almost everything you need to know about DSM's.

http://vfaq.com/

Make an account on dsmtuners so you can ask any questions if you need help with anything.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/

If you have any other questions about anything feel free to PM me.

Have fun!!!!

 
http://www.team-2g.com

A new turbo isn't a bad idea you just need to know the limits. On a GSX or anything with the 4G63 you can go up to (I believe) 12psi and I think you need a t3/t4 flanged turbo or else you'll also need a new header.

The turbo install itself is pretty easy. There are a few steps you need to consider first before you go run the car on a track because you WILL **** up your engine if you don't prime the turbo. You will also want the **** thing tuned or again, you will either **** up your engine or the turbo. I would tell your friend to do some serious reading before installing. If he doesn't want to take the time to learn up on his car then he should pay a shop.

Luckily for him there is a TON of info on eclipses. Good thing he has a gsx too. AWD launches are fun. I'm stuck with an RS and I wish I would have known more about eclipses before I bought mine. I bought mine thinking I could swap a 4G63 into it...LAWL

 
Well I just meant because your throwing more lbs. of boost, which is sort of irrelavent to his question, does not matter. It matters how much HP your putting down. It's all subjective to how much bigger the turbo is and EVERYTHING is tune dependent. Even your comment about the rings; tune dependent. If you have a good solid tune, you can make any mechanical part hold up. Hell I ran 300 HP on my fvckin Si for over 2 years before I built it, and even then my sleeves, rings and pistons (ALL STOCK) were still fine.

There is of course a limit. And PSI (boost) creates HP so while your argument is valid that HP is what kills engines, PSI is what is creating the HP when applied with turbos. I can't remember the exact number of a 4G63 but the boost on a 420a is 8psi with stock internals. Anything over that and you'll be running into problems over time. That is why boost gauges and monitoring equipment is so important. Maybe you have 20psi coming from the turbo but you've got a boost leak from the stock intercooler so your car only sees 12psi at the engine. Gotta fix those leaks too.

well I'm rambling and I'm also not the guy to ask. I have a general knowledge of turbos, especially on 420a's but the specifics are something you need to find for yourself.

Everything that you could learn from this thread is NOT enough info to do a turbo build. It's probably just enough for you to go to a DSM thread and not get laughed at.

 
There is of course a limit. And PSI (boost) creates HP so while your argument is valid that HP is what kills engines, PSI is what is creating the HP when applied with turbos. I can't remember the exact number of a 4G63 but the boost on a 420a is 8psi with stock internals. Anything over that and you'll be running into problems over time. That is why boost gauges and monitoring equipment is so important. Maybe you have 20psi coming from the turbo but you've got a boost leak from the stock intercooler so your car only sees 12psi at the engine. Gotta fix those leaks too.
well I'm rambling and I'm also not the guy to ask. I have a general knowledge of turbos, especially on 420a's but the specifics are something you need to find for yourself.

Everything that you could learn from this thread is NOT enough info to do a turbo build. It's probably just enough for you to go to a DSM thread and not get laughed at.
The 420a didn't come boosted... It's a ****ing Neon engine, crammed in the DSM to make it cheap. A 420a DSM runs a 16.6 in the 1/4, IIRC.

 
teh stock turbo head is good for 400 hp.stock internals can handle ~20psi on 93 octane on a good tune, and 24-25 psi on race fuel.

the manifold is fine. there are many large turbos that bolt right onto the stock manifold; FP green FP red, mitsu flanged 50 trims, 60-1's, etc.



400+ on a 2nd gen WILL produce crankwalk in a gst with 5speed. No doubt in my mind. A gsx with 5 speed is a little less likely to get it, like a FRACTION of a percentage, but it will still happen. A DSM isnt a bullet proof system. And yes, I would DEFINATELY change the head. Specifically a 1g head. The runners are larger and smoother. I put a 1g head with HKS cams and I was at 315 at the wheels along with the normal intake/exhaust system, with a warlboro 255 hp in the tank. And that was on the T-too-tiny25 turbo. After it was all said and done, I WANTED to go with the FP Green, but I ended up with a MachV Rocket Alpha turbo. Had a little lag, but my X was auto, so I was able to build boost for the launch. I went with 770 injectors, a GReddy e-manage, GReddy profecB, and the turbo timer as well. I had a B&M FPR, and I think it was Venom fuel rail. Cheap for me. Was given to me. LOL. Was a very fun car to drive, and it was mostly budget built. My very last mod was the exhaust manifold, I went with an equal length tube one from SS Autochrome...huge difference. O, my wastegate was a tial 46mm, and my bov was the GReddy type RS, venting to the atmosphere, and I had the GM MAF conversion with that retarded lil box under the hood. as far as my FMIC, I got one off ebay with piping for like, $300. Was pretty nice.

 
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