Installation Power-Up Issue - Resolved

[Kapt67]

I have a a 2019 Ram 1500 Classic with the non Alpine 8.4 Nav system in it. Standard six speakers. I upgraded the dash speakers to Infinity 3.5" coaxial's, and the front door speakers to Alpine Red-line series 6x9's. It sounds pretty good, but is lacking some oomph. So I bought a Rockville 10" (Rockville RW10CA) under the seat subwoofer in an attempt to keep rear seat storage. I didn't want to go with a high level input, so I also bought a Kicker KISLOC2 line out adapter

Today I did the install and tapped into the driver rear door speaker from inside on the B Pillar. As soon as I connect a speaker wire (the negative to be specific. And the ground) to the inputs the LED in the converter lights up and won't go off. This also turns on the amp. Can't have an amp on all the time right. So I rechecked my tap connections and all seems to be OK. No shorts that I can find, or anything else that seems weird. So I figured since I'm at it, I''ll try the high level input connection

I disconnected the converter and connected the plug for the high level input. Connected everything and the amp lit up without the radio on. I turned on the radio and it sounds pretty good. I turned everything off and waited a bit to see if the amp would turn off after a little bit. It did not, and just made noise out of the sub even though everything was off

I'm lost here. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'll pull it back apart and recheck my tap, but I don't think that's the problem because with the amp disconnected that speaker sounds fine. With the amp connected, that speaker still sounds fine

Any ideas?

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[Kapt67]

Apparently I cannot use signal sensing to do this. I need an actual switched power supply. I think I can grab power from the center console and call it good. That's a tomorrow project though. There's football on today

 

[SlugButter]

This is the Rockville powered subwoofer? Similar to the Infiniti bass link? If so, it should get power just like an amplifier, with a remote input coming from the head unit to tell it to turn on.

 

[Kapt67]

That's what I ended up doing. I grabbed switched power from the cab and ran it to the remote. Works perfectly. The built in remote switch on the Kicker LOC stayed on constantly, not letting it turn off. Same with the automatic signal sensing setup on the high input. Now it works perfectly, although I might have to upgrade to a LC2i due to how bad the bass falls off at higher volumes. That's simple though

 

[SlugButter]

im building something similar for my Jeep from scratch. Using bare amplifier boards from Sure Electronics, and building the amp inside a custom 4th order bandpass enclosure. The powered subs on the market just aren’t enough for me. Im doing the same for door pods, with amps built directly into each pod inside the doors. i Like the idea of not having amps laying around inside my vehicle.

 

[Kapt67]

That sounds interesting for sure. Love to see pictures when you're finished with it

 

[SlugButter]

I will post them on here once I actually hear it work. I’m not all that confident yet, as this is a new type of project for me. These amps do not run on 12 volts, so I’m a little nervous about how efficient it will be to boost voltage. I know I will lose a little power in the conversion process.

 

[Kapt67]

Good luck