ahh. missed the later post from him.OP stated that in his box requirements. 10.5 is not big enough for a 10 inch sub, IMO.
8's can play low.That did cross my mind about the size. I figured it would be ok because most 10's seemed to have a 9 inch mounting diameter. I could double check to see if 11 inches could somehow fit. If not, I did think about an 8 but didnt think an 8 could play low enough?
Outside dimensions 10.5x12x14 using 3/4in mdf is .683 to my math, am I right?I could be wrong, but by your measurements given you would have a box with 1.02ft^3. Which one of us did the wrong math? Probably me, but someone double check this.
Yes you're right. I didn't figure the 3/4 mdf in there. I used two different calculators online and got two different things. What's the right way to calculate box volume?Outside dimensions 10.5x12x14 using 3/4in mdf is .683 to my math, am I right?
Ok, the JL8w3v3 is 150rms and the Image Dynamics ID8V.3 is 150rms also. They are priced very low also so should I consider this as an option? Run either one of those subs with the Zapco 200.2 (200X1 @4ohms) and use the Zapco 350.2 to power a set of components with 100X2 ? And use the money I saved on a sub to get a better set of components? My budget plan is $500 for a sub and set of components.The new Assassins are D4s and the SS are out of stock. You could run the amp @ 8 ohms on a lower powered, more efficient 8 like a JL or ID. DLS might be an option as well.
Once you get out of the loud realm you step outside the knowledge base of most of this forum. The popular brands on here probably aren't going to have what you need so you'll probably have to expand your horizons a bit.
X2!^^^that's a definite option. A little more headroom on nicer components will make a bigger difference than the sub in the overall sound of the system anyway. Don't get too concerned with rated RMS numbers, either. Power with music is nowhere near a continuous level which is what thermal power handling is based on.