These are some immediately post-paint pics (hosted by a girl I've never met 7 years ago... I'm amazed they're still up heh):
http://www.angelfire.com/games2/alicia/sbt/index.html
Apparently I don't have any recent pictures with the current wheel/tire setup (got some from 2 years ago when i first put the wheel son and tires that were too big, but its got a major 4x4 look in those... i'll have to take some soon and post them). But imagine the above with 15" chrome torque thrust IIs and dropped an inch, and there you go.
My stereo will be kind of similar:
HUD: Pioneer DEH-P4000UB
Amp1: Kenwood KAC-8403 800w (60w RMS x 4), powering the speakers
6x9s: KFC-M6930 60W RMS
6.5s: Polk Audio DB651 60W RMS
Amp2/Sub - Hyphonics Zeus 600W/300Wx2 amp to a kicker CVR-12 w/ generic box (for now, might try to get one that works in the classic better)
Speaking of which, if you know any place that makes them or have any general tips for properly finding and installing a sub box so that I feel the sub and my whole car doesn't rattle... I'm all ears...
Don't dog those old 6's. They were renowned for being bulletproof and even without OD (my dad had a 200ci in his 65 mustang) could hit 20 mpg... pretty good for a car that old. With OD mid-to-high 20s is doable. But yeah... they are painfully slow.
351s are the way to go IMO... except for the whole changing plugs thing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif (except its not funny, it really is a pain in the ***).
351W's (what I have) are pretty much overgrown 302s... you can reuse all your accessories, brackets, etc (from a 289/302, not sure about the 6.. 289/302 stuff is easy to find though).. only things different are the intake and a few minor pieces. That being said, they're MUCH more durable... stronger block, bigger head bolts/con rod bolts, better oiling, etc... and more cubes is always better.
351C's are a bit of a different animal... they need more parts to get them in (though much of the 289/302 stuff still translates) and are usually a bit wider. Also not known for being quite as durable as the 'W', though plenty unless you're planning on really building them. The big advantage of a 'C' is those heads though... the '4V' heads are capable of 500 hp stock without breaking a sweat, where 302/351 stock heads start hitting their ceilings around 300-350 hp. Of course, 302s and 351s have piles of aftermarket heads that even things up quickly... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
I also would advise you to get an AOD (if you wanna stay auto) or a T5. Overdrive is a wonderful thing... reasonable economy (my 66 will get 21-22 on the freeway, and thats with a cam/heads/bigger carb/etc), less engine wear, less noise, can run lower gears, etc. And conversions are cheap enough if you do your research. Nothing wrong with a C4 (what I used to have) or C6, except C6s are pretty heavy, but as soon as your car slips into OD for the first time you'll appreciate having it.
Rust wasn't tooooo bad on my car, but my car is a california car which helps. We had some in the engine bay and the cowl (the cowl is a major trouble spot on early mustangs, almost all of them are rusting as we speak). Had some minor traces on the floorpans too but threw some bondo at it and called it a day.
If you have any other questions, feel free to ask //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif As you can tell, I do enjoy talking about this.
