Im getting old too fast, so can we cut to the chase??


G8or76

CarAudio.com Newbie
May 1, 2020
7
0
GA
Hello All, im Chuck! I'm 49 and a longtime lover of all things car audio, you could actually call me a journeyman, but unfortunately mostly on the Shade Tree side. I quickly starting to forget alot of things I was never taught and am becoming more confused everyday as the basic truths like is there such thing anymore called "True" Wattage? Example Punch 45, 75 that could power a small concert KICKER ZR 240&360 that could power 2 comp 8 and some component speaker to 127 spl on the 1st try. Oh well, here's my ?, If its not too silly, I finally was able to purchase an old Kicker 12" l7(08S12L74) but only have access to 2 amps for now. Id LOVE to rule 1 out so is there a chance in hell that a BOSS AUDIO CHAOS cer450.2 Erupt "900" watt amplifier gonna be able to give the L7 a chance or will the Square Monster **** that amp inside out? BTW I'm familiar with RMS(minimum wattage Amp requires) & MAX(peak handling, but no for extended periods) ohms, dvc, series/parallel. Still can't understand the inconsistencies like why, hypothetically, is PYLE'S 300rms/600max subs & Amps so much Different than say KICKER or Rockford Fosgates products with the same specs?! Lastly, im on a SS disability budget, so please keep that in mind with this question, if well since the amp in question won't fit the bill, what would be the least expensive amp, with atleast the required amount of all the important things numbers rms, .5 ohm stable(lol as if that was budget friendly) would you guys recommend? Ill take any and all answers along with all the whys&why not. Thank you guys in advance and I'm proud to be in here with ya'll
 

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ThxOne

AudioFreak
Jun 8, 2018
2,499
450
Saint Marys, GA
Short answer. The likes of Pyle and Boss use high power numbers to lure would be new to car audio customers to purchase their products by assuming that new customers don't know any better. More often than not, this IS the case. Kicker and RF do not do this but instead charge more for a quality product assuming the customer KNOWS what they want. So they give them, more often than not, more than their stated power. They also will use much better components in their amplifiers.

Will the boss work... sure. Will it put out what they say? Nope.
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
559
160
Pharr, Texas
The difference between brands is that lesser brands lie about their output, whereas better brands underrate theirs. My amp repair guy said that a good rule of thumb is to go by the fuse rating of a class D amp. The total fuse rating multiplied by 10 will give you the best rms estimate. 40 amp fuse x 10 volts = 400 watts rms. I actually have found this to be quite accurate. Best deals in ebay imo, are DB Drive a8 1750.1d and DB Drive a7m 750.1. They are both 1ohm stable and cea2006. So ratings are true. The power of either of those will be more than enough for your setup.
 
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hispls

CarAudio.com Veteran
10+ year member
Sep 10, 2009
11,181
375
Central Maine
why, hypothetically, is PYLE'S 300rms/600max subs & Amps so much Different than say KICKER or Rockford Fosgates products with the same specs?
This is what is know in the industry is "bullshit". It has been going on since you and I were in high school where companies would throw some enormous power number on a product that's just a flat out lie in order to con people into buying them. It was easier back pre-internet when you didn't know better and really how would you know your "1000W" amp wasn't really making 1000W? Many of the old favorites like the original Punch amps VII and VIII Hifonics were thought to be under-rated largely because most of the companies were just liars. Anyway, these days it's pretty easy to Google up anything and find a youtube video of actual power measurements. And of course those 100W amps used to sound super loud because all the speakers were built for that power range. A late 80's Punch 45 would barely tickle your L7.

So that all said, if you don't have a big budget you definitely can't afford to get something that performs poorly will fail prematurely, and will hold no resale value down the road! Save up until you can afford something good or look around for something solid used. High end (good) Rockford Fosgate is never going to be budget friendly. Kicker may be better but they're nothing special these days.

You can use your Boss amp if you own it, but even back when they first came out and were made in the USA (actually pretty nice amps) they only ever made about 1/4 of the number printed on the heatsink. As far as something better, which coil configuration is your Kicker? How much were you intending to spend to power this?

The total fuse rating multiplied by 10
Many of the bullshit brands are wise to this little bit of conventional wisdom and just over-fuse. This may not be reliable.
 

Bobbytwonames

Conspiracy Theorist
Aug 28, 2018
2,443
-98
Hello All, im Chuck! I'm 49 and a longtime lover of all things car audio, you could actually call me a journeyman, but unfortunately mostly on the Shade Tree side. I quickly starting to forget alot of things I was never taught and am becoming more confused everyday as the basic truths like is there such thing anymore called "True" Wattage? Example Punch 45, 75 that could power a small concert KICKER ZR 240&360 that could power 2 comp 8 and some component speaker to 127 spl on the 1st try. Oh well, here's my ?, If its not too silly, I finally was able to purchase an old Kicker 12" l7(08S12L74) but only have access to 2 amps for now. Id LOVE to rule 1 out so is there a chance in hell that a BOSS AUDIO CHAOS cer450.2 Erupt "900" watt amplifier gonna be able to give the L7 a chance or will the Square Monster **** that amp inside out? BTW I'm familiar with RMS(minimum wattage Amp requires) & MAX(peak handling, but no for extended periods) ohms, dvc, series/parallel. Still can't understand the inconsistencies like why, hypothetically, is PYLE'S 300rms/600max subs & Amps so much Different than say KICKER or Rockford Fosgates products with the same specs?! Lastly, im on a SS disability budget, so please keep that in mind with this question, if well since the amp in question won't fit the bill, what would be the least expensive amp, with atleast the required amount of all the important things numbers rms, .5 ohm stable(lol as if that was budget friendly) would you guys recommend? Ill take any and all answers along with all the whys&why not. Thank you guys in advance and I'm proud to be in here with ya'll
This amp should get it moving.
Screenshot_20200813-191416_Samsung Internet.jpg
 

1aespinoza

Junior Member
May 22, 2013
559
160
Pharr, Texas
Many of the bullshit brands are wise to this little bit of conventional wisdom and just over-fuse.
I've wodered about that, but then I thought they would run the risk of frying the amp when pushed beyond it's capacity. Like overfusing a circuit that keeps popping and end up melting the the wires.
 

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