im completely lost. amp is super hot

[courtadk]

Hey guys and gals. So this isn't my first system or anything of that sort. I've alwas installed and troubleshoot my systems I've had. This one has got me stubbed. I need help. I have a autotek 3000.2 amp that melted two fuses. Got the system turned off before the amp went into protection mode. Note it was still hitting as they melted. So I went for the ground wire first and took the 8awg and put a 4awg in its place and ran it to another spot for a better ground. Replaced both fuses. And I took the cover off the amp to see if anything has melted and nothing on the inside has melted. And there is no burn or marks on the board. But now that I replaced the ground wire and the fuses the amp is getting super hot where I can't hold my hand on it for more then 2 seconds. Fuses are not hot either is the ground or power. Only the amp. My old amps when they would get that hot it would jump in protection mode. Anybody have this happen and know what I'm talking about.the amp is bumping two Kicker L7s squares 12". 8awg power cable 4awg ground power acoustics head unit. Autotek 3000.2 amp. System is bridged. Thank you for your time. (Note) reason for the 4awg on ground is cause it's short and won't reach from the battery to the amp. Amp is under driver seat and heat vents are blocked off to the driver side floor.

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[Tripn88]

It's under the seat... Horrible place. 8awg is way to small for a power wire.. Heat vents are blocked off. No Bueno.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

What impedance are you trying to drive?

 

[courtadk]

Heat vents are on the four corners of amp and it's sitting at a angle. None are blocked. And 4inches of space to the bottom of the seat. I know the power wire is just 8Awg but then how would that heat up the amp. Working to hard for power ? I've never ran 8awg and I really didn't want to. But it was the set up of my single 12" with a 1500 watt amp. Going to try and upgrade wire and big 3 upgrade. Plus I have a 2nd battery that came with the system. Hispls 4ohms is how its hooked up. Thanks for the replys

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Are those L7s Dual 4 ohm subs each?How do you have them wired/Have you checked with a DMM to find out what Ohm load you are at before connecting to the amp?Under the seat is prob one of the worst places for an amp to stay running cooler/collects alot of heat/poor air circulation,.Whats the model # on your subs?.Im thinking that amp is only 2 ohm stable, and you are running/wired for a 1 ohm load/Possibly.

 

[supra1987]

Does the amp get hot to the touch just powering on without subs connected?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Ill have to look that amp up /specs..Get a DMM out and check your ohm load on your subs disconnected from the amp and see where you are at

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Autotek ATX3000.2 (ATX30002) 3000W 2-Chan Class AB ATX Amplifier

This your amp???If so, its only rated for 4 ohms Mono, not 2,or 1 ohm..Minimum is 4 ohm rated

 

[Tripn88]

It's like trying to **** a thick milk shake through a small straw. You get a little but your blue in the face. And I was confused by your last sentence.

 

[courtadk]

Yes that is that is the amp. The subs are hooked up like this + - on one side hooked in alone on both. Then the + - hooked up carried over to the other sub then carried out to the amp and bridged on the amp. Unsure of the model number I will check in the morning. And no I havnt disconnected to see if the amp.heats up I will give that ago in the morning. As for now I'm going to unhook till I get a better wire ran for it. Only had two subs a couple of times. I mostly go for a single sub with a nice amp. But when I ran double subs that's how I hooked them up. Thanks again for the replys. As for the straw thing I know what you mean. I used to use 8awg for speaker wire when I had my 15 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I'll run a meter on it when I get to work. My foreman has one and I'll get a reading on the amp and put the numbers on here of what's putting out what. As well as the subs.

 

[courtadk]

No sticker or model number on subs. Older style if this is the same amp that was with the subs the whole time then it was bought in 2012.

SUB 1

Coil 1 3.9 4.0. Ohm

Coil 2. 3.9. 4.0. Ohm

SUB 2

Coil 1. 3.9. 4.0 Ohm

Coil 2. 3.9. 4.0 Ohm

Power 13 to 15 volts

Fuse 1. -0.1 v

Fuse 2. 1.0 v

Rem wire 11.45 v

Speaker output right and left all over the place. same when bridged . Does not heat up when unhooked to speakers popped to 30 fuses today when I was testing it. Seeing a problem area in the fuse and possibly the speaker outputs. Need a 2nd option on this please and thank you.

 

[shizzzon 10+ year member]

I dont fully understand the response on how it's wired but get a multimeter. measure ohm load with amplifier off at the speaker output.

 

[Jakerrr 10+ year member]

No sticker or model number on subs. Older style if this is the same amp that was with the subs the whole time then it was bought in 2012.
SUB 1

Coil 1 3.9 4.0. Ohm

Coil 2. 3.9. 4.0. Ohm

SUB 2

Coil 1. 3.9. 4.0 Ohm

Coil 2. 3.9. 4.0 Ohm

Power 13 to 15 volts

Fuse 1. -0.1 v

Fuse 2. 1.0 v

Rem wire 11.45 v

Speaker output right and left all over the place. same when bridged . Does not heat up when unhooked to speakers popped to 30 fuses today when I was testing it. Seeing a problem area in the fuse and possibly the speaker outputs. Need a 2nd option on this please and thank you.

Seems like you're running at too low an impedance. 2 dvc 4ohm subs can be wired in 2 different final loads, 4 or 1ohm. My guess is you have them at 1 ohm. Low impedance will raise current, making amp hot and fuses blow