Yes, the design of the enclosure would still have control over the movement of the cone.so lets say i had a box tuned to 38 and it was peaking hard (mechanically) at 31... if i decreased tuning to 31 er 32 it would do better?
is that the same for sealed? i had a 10w6v2 built to specs on quite a bit of power, but it peaked mechanically at 43-48 hz range and eventually the surround tore so should i have made a bigger box?Yes, the design of the enclosure would still have control over the movement of the cone.
when i give my opinion, you guys tell me to just listen and ask questions to other people...Read a book.
Since when does JL know what I want out of my system? I've tried JL spec enclosures and they have always lacked in low end. I want a system that has authority around 25-35hz and they just don't do it for me.Why would you do that? You don't trust the the specs for a port or enclosure given by the people who designed the subs? I would think they know what works best for there equipment.
If I'm wrong please do educate me. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif That's what we're all here for anyways right?
No. In a ported enclosure, the cone movement is very limited around the tuning frequency of the enclosure. This is due to a high pressure impedance seen by the sub from the enclosure. The cone movement is controlled and limited slightly above and below tuning (usually by about 1/2 octave but that will vary with port area). Below that point, the port actually acts like an open circuit (or a hole in the box) and the sub begins to act like it is in a free air environment. Above that point, the sub begins to act like it is in a sealed enclosure with the equivalent volume.is that the same for sealed? i had a 10w6v2 built to specs on quite a bit of power, but it peaked mechanically at 43-48 hz range and eventually the surround tore so should i have made a bigger box?
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifRead a book.
You ain't gunna do jack shit.i'll upgrade eventually but first i'm gunna...
raise my back seat 2 inches with spacers and longer bolts...
drop 3 10w6v2 ported in place of the 2 10w3's sealed...
and replace the 500/1 with a 1000/1...
i've allready got the stuff laying around just trying to find time to build this STOOPID complicated F-Glass ported box...
it's actually gunna end up more like a T-line because of the way the space under the seat is more shallow in the back then in the front...
basically i'm thinking about the 10's all front-firing with 2 ports down firing on either side into the floorboard recession (if you can picture that) and whats more of a headache, it's all gotta be F-glass no MDF, so that means i'l be puttin about 30 layers on haha
should be schweet if i ever get it done... i'll post pics
anyone ever heard of front-firing subs/down-firing ports in a truck, i'm wondering if it will sound good... i love down firing subs in a truck but i just don't think i'll have the space to do it like i would want
W7s are dinosours and 800 bucks at CrutchfeildIMO they are 400.00 woofers(300 for sub +100 for name)
and an FI Q will own a W7 -
comparing tech in the 2 woofers is a joke too. I dont' care how new Fi is, there is nothing new about the design, uses older motor topology than the W7 I'd bet.Would you mind getting off of FI's sack for a minute?
The Q will not, "own" a W7. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif Truthfully, low end output wise I don't even think it can measure up TO the w7, none the less "own" it.