I'd like to learn

Currently i have 4 12" Kicker comps hooked up to a Kicker CX600.1. two of them are in a sealed box, and the other two are in a single port box with no divider wall. personally i like the sealed boxes better than the ported because they sound nicer to me so i'll probably end up making a sealed box for all 4 to sit in.

but is what i'm using doing me justice? should i be using a bigger amp or something?

 
you need 2kw rms if you want to run all 4 of those near the power they need. expect to need more money for electrical as well.

port all 4 of those and it'll sound a lot better, if you have the space. running 2 subs sealed and 2 ported on the same amp is a bad idea

 
Currently i have 4 12" Kicker comps hooked up to a Kicker CX600.1. two of them are in a sealed box, and the other two are in a single port box with no divider wall. personally i like the sealed boxes better than the ported because they sound nicer to me so i'll probably end up making a sealed box for all 4 to sit in.
but is what i'm using doing me justice? should i be using a bigger amp or something?
let me guess the ported box is something you can buy from amazon or ebay... Reason why it doesnt sound good because its designed by a monkey. A properly designed ported box can sound a lot better than sealed but it requires proper knowledge of the sub and how it will work in your car's acoustics.

 
more than likely it is some ****** prefab, i'm aware that this is why it's **** sounding, i got the box cheap as **** off the guy i got two of them from so i figured i'd use it temporarily until i built a box myself. i'm not sure how to build it correctly so i'm going to have to research that a little harder, but on the plus side i have all the tools i'd need already at my brother's house.

also why i'm waiting is to get a different car. the little bassmobile i have now is an '87 honda accord with bad inspection, plate tags, now my license is suspended for driving it to work and back so i just have it parked in my driveway. just have to pay off my court fines and i can get my license back.

anyway. each 12 is a 4ohm. they're wired down to 2ohm each i believe. i'm confused though whether it's mono block or not. kicker says it's a mono amp, but it's got two positive and two negative output connections. sorry if i sound ignorant on this, i don't know anyone else around here who ***** with bass like that lol

 
more than likely it is some ****** prefab, i'm aware that this is why it's **** sounding, i got the box cheap as **** off the guy i got two of them from so i figured i'd use it temporarily until i built a box myself. i'm not sure how to build it correctly so i'm going to have to research that a little harder, but on the plus side i have all the tools i'd need already at my brother's house. also why i'm waiting is to get a different car. the little bassmobile i have now is an '87 honda accord with bad inspection, plate tags, now my license is suspended for driving it to work and back so i just have it parked in my driveway. just have to pay off my court fines and i can get my license back.

anyway. each 12 is a 4ohm. they're wired down to 2ohm each i believe. i'm confused though whether it's mono block or not. kicker says it's a mono amp, but it's got two positive and two negative output connections. sorry if i sound ignorant on this, i don't know anyone else around here who ***** with bass like that lol
many monoblock amplifiers will have two terminals per pos/neg to make it easier to wire up. that way you're not shoving all your wire in one terminal if you're connecting multiple subs. makes it so you can wire in parallel at the amp rather than using a crimp or bolt

invest the majority of your time building the right box for your vehicle. keep in mind space makes bass, but you need to make sure you have the space that you need for 4 12s. 2 in a proper ported box will kill 4 12s in a small box. i have a single 15 killing people with 2 12s and im as loud as 4 12s in a wall. its all about the box

 
i have a single 15 killing people with 2 12s and im as loud as 4 12s in a wall. its all about the box
hell yeah, my buddy from where i used to live in minnesota was sending me snapchats of his boy's 15, and that thing was flexing hard. i noticed i have less flex for sure with the 4 than i did with the 2 in the sealed (i don't think i ran them bridged). but you say this is because of a sealed and a ported being wired up to the same amp? is there less resistance with a port then? i was always under the impression that sealed gave you a better sound on the low end vs just having the volume on the mid to high end. i'm not looking for more volume, rather, a better flex.

maybe it's my wiring though, i'll wade through the snow here in a minute and go look at/ take pictures of how exactly i have it wired currently. i bought a hundred foot roll of 14g wire the other day, that will work fine if i'm replacing all the wires, right? or will i need a thicker gauge?

for building a box to match my trunk, what do i do? measure the trunk out and get my specs from that? or figure the specs for 4 12's? why is a port more favored to you?

 
Your best bet is using the stock wiring for your door speakers and the 14 gauge wherever else you need it, it'll be fine for your subs. run a 9 wire conductor if you need to run wiring from behind your headunit to your amp in the back

You may be getting cancellation because of having two different boxes with different responses. There's a good picture I'll post showimg what I mean when I get on my laptop

Measure your max dimensions with a little wiggle room included and determine how much volume you have to work with.

Phase-Cancellation.jpg


 
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