IA 40.1, optima, nsb90, 250A alt, still not enough,

I know he tried it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif
No big 3 wouldnt kill an amp

Prolly just beat the crap out of it and excessive low voltage killed it, big3 wouldnt have helped nor did it hurt not having it
If the battery(ies) is/are low on voltage and the vehicle is trying to charge them through small wire you are going to get voltage drops.

Will it blow right away? Probably not, but over time as you drain the batteries, it will every time.

Where do you think voltage drops come from?

 
Correct. But grounding to a seatbelt bolt isnt a good ground no matter how long the wire it.
With that much current anyways. You can probably get away with it on under a 1000 watts but I still wouldnt recommend it.
I won't disagree with that. I prefer to do runs for my grounds.

 
Here is a little example to clear up this big 3 confusion

When replacing an exhaust system, the bigger the pipe, the less back pressure there is the faster the air can escape.

When emptying a bathtub full of water, the bigger the drainpipe, the faster the water can leave.

When current is running from one place to another, such as an alternator to a battery the bigger the wire, the more capacity it has for current transfer.

Thus the stock wiring coming from the alternator and going to the battery which is usually 8 gauge, depending on your car, can only handle a certain load, like 100 amps or something (I don't know exact amount). While 0 guage can facilitate up to 300 amps. So if you have an aftermarket alternator producing 250 amps, and you are still using 8 gauge, you will either burn up your wire, or charge your batteries with only 100 amps. You will not be getting the full benefit out of your alternator.

More Current can travel on bigger wires. So if your battery has 1/0 gauge running to the amplifier, and your alternator has 8 gauge running to the battery than the batteries will be losing at most 300 amps while only gaining 100 amps. Causing the batteries to discharge before they can charge. The more a battery has discharged the lower its output voltage. This phenomenon is known as voltage drop. No matter what you are running the Big 3 is a great idea, and is why I won't drive my car with my new alternator in it until my 1/0 gauge arrives in the mail (hopefully tomorrow!!!!). I don't want to have voltage drops.

If I had a picture of the mermaid ejaculating all over the place I would paste it here... you'll have to settle for a mental image.

 
Ok well here is the deal. I didnt smoke the amp, I just smoked the sub. The smoke I smelt was from the sub. I just hooked it up in my bro ole ladys car..

So why would just the sub blow. and it being the sub that was making the noises at low levels?

Also I am running low on 0 gauge wire and am fixing to move so I cannot order any, are ALL a must or can I get away with batt to frame and batt to alt?

 
Ok well I found out the amp does work... So I went over there to hook up the sub that did work. Got my big 3 done and everything all ready to go and hook it up and nothing. Take the sub out of the box and on both coils it shows 0ohms... On the one thats fried it says .8...

How in the **** could this happened?

 
Can anyone please help. Obviosly the 1st one if blown... The second seemed fine until I checked it on the meter and got NOTHING. Yea the amp did not blow. Might have sent a surge through the subs and blew them or something..

But the first sub. the VC is a MESS. The second looks FINE accept I am getting no ohms...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 
If you are getting no reading on the coils chances are its an open coil and toast. Perfect time to get recones and take full advantage of the 40.1. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
tanker8fx1kk.jpg


nG

 
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