davidc
Junior Member
The amp is a Precision Power P900.4
The system doesn't sound good. Hardly any bass, and the mid and highs seem thin.
I am not a car audio tuner, however, I've been an audiophile for 40 yrs, so I am well aware what quality sound is.
The system was installed and tuned by a friend of a friend privately who has been the head of the install dept. at a Best Buy for about 5 yrs. Supposedly knows his field. I was not there for the install, and there was a falling out after I told him that the system didn't sound well when I went to pick up the car. I had told him that I like my music to be as "accurate" as possible, without any artificial bass boost.
The system is a Kenwood HDR-545U HU with no crossover settings being used except the subwoofer output crossover at 85Hz. (I believe it's a 12dB/oct slope.)
The installer said the system would sound best with the midrange and treble tone controls set to -6.
It's installed in a 2004 Honda S2000 convertible.
Please look at the photos below to confirm what I think are the settings. Don't take my word for it!
The door speakers are Boston Acoustics components (SC60) with a passive crossover between the 6.5in mid/woofer and tweeter.
There is a 12in Polk Audio 4ohm single voice coil subwoofer in a sealed box of proper size in the trunk.
It appears that the front crossover is set 1500Hz. Without a marking on the knob its difficult to tell, but if rotated fully CCW, the mark that would be at 20Hz is at about 10:00, and the x10 button is pressed in.
The rear channel is set to bandpass (BPF), and the buttons are out (x1).
Using the reference of the knob markings that would be at 50Hz and 20Hz respectively if rotated fully CCW, they both are at about 10:00.
So, for the rear channel subwoofer, it appears the LPF is set to about 180Hz, and the HPF is set to about 160Hz.
The subwoofer wires are connected to the RL- and RR+ terminals, which seems to be opposite of what the manual suggests for bridging the rear channels. The manual states: "If one subwoofer with 4ohm is used, bridge the amp using the (R+) & (L-) terminals.
If this is all correct, it doesn't seem to make any sense at all, and would account for the poor sound.
What do you guys think?
The system doesn't sound good. Hardly any bass, and the mid and highs seem thin.
I am not a car audio tuner, however, I've been an audiophile for 40 yrs, so I am well aware what quality sound is.
The system was installed and tuned by a friend of a friend privately who has been the head of the install dept. at a Best Buy for about 5 yrs. Supposedly knows his field. I was not there for the install, and there was a falling out after I told him that the system didn't sound well when I went to pick up the car. I had told him that I like my music to be as "accurate" as possible, without any artificial bass boost.
The system is a Kenwood HDR-545U HU with no crossover settings being used except the subwoofer output crossover at 85Hz. (I believe it's a 12dB/oct slope.)
The installer said the system would sound best with the midrange and treble tone controls set to -6.
It's installed in a 2004 Honda S2000 convertible.
Please look at the photos below to confirm what I think are the settings. Don't take my word for it!
The door speakers are Boston Acoustics components (SC60) with a passive crossover between the 6.5in mid/woofer and tweeter.
There is a 12in Polk Audio 4ohm single voice coil subwoofer in a sealed box of proper size in the trunk.
It appears that the front crossover is set 1500Hz. Without a marking on the knob its difficult to tell, but if rotated fully CCW, the mark that would be at 20Hz is at about 10:00, and the x10 button is pressed in.
The rear channel is set to bandpass (BPF), and the buttons are out (x1).
Using the reference of the knob markings that would be at 50Hz and 20Hz respectively if rotated fully CCW, they both are at about 10:00.
So, for the rear channel subwoofer, it appears the LPF is set to about 180Hz, and the HPF is set to about 160Hz.
The subwoofer wires are connected to the RL- and RR+ terminals, which seems to be opposite of what the manual suggests for bridging the rear channels. The manual states: "If one subwoofer with 4ohm is used, bridge the amp using the (R+) & (L-) terminals.
If this is all correct, it doesn't seem to make any sense at all, and would account for the poor sound.
What do you guys think?