I think I need more power

[Steveoxxx10000d]

I'm trying to figure out how to get more amperage out of my electrical system.

First I have one Sound Stream XXX-15 and one XXX10000D amp. Both will handle and put out 8500 RMS respectively. On the electrical side I have an Ohio generator alt. rated at 160amp. One SVR-33 batt. and two SVR-80 batts. all wired with 1/0 wire. The voltage remains at 13.8 constantly.

The amp was tuned by the shop that installed it. The sub is wired at 1ohm. The problem is when the system is at its loudest (151db) the current meter only reads 205amps. At my calculations that is only 2624 watts. The book says at full power the amp will draw 545 amps. Even though I'm not running the amp at 16volts, according to the book at 13.5 volts @ one ohm the amp should be outputting 8000! I think the amp is just not getting enough power.

So my question is should I add more batteries? Or more alternators? Let me know. Thanks.

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[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

I'm trying to figure out how to get more amperage out of my electrical system.
First I have one Sound Stream XXX-15 and one XXX10000D amp. Both will handle and put out 8500 RMS respectively. On the electrical side I have an Ohio generator alt. rated at 160amp. One SVR-33 batt. and two SVR-80 batts. all wired with 1/0 wire. The voltage remains at 13.8 constantly.

The amp was tuned by the shop that installed it. The sub is wired at 1ohm. The problem is when the system is at its loudest (151db) the current meter only reads 205amps. At my calculations that is only 2624 watts. The book says at full power the amp will draw 545 amps. Even though I'm not running the amp at 16volts, according to the book at 13.5 volts @ one ohm the amp should be outputting 8000! I think the amp is just not getting enough power.

So my question is should I add more batteries? Or more alternators? Let me know. Thanks.

I have a XXX10000 and yes it puts out big power...but not that much (not 8500 rms...more like 5300 rms at 1 ohm i believe)...

How were you measuring it?...and at that current draw I would bet anything you were running at 4 ohms or so if that current reading is currect..

 

[dragnix 5,000+ posts]

don't you have to run a 16-18v system for that amp to be making full power?

Edit: you might need a bigger alt than just 160amp

 

[MisterGrubbs 5,000+ posts]

If you're holding steady 14.4 full tilt with what electrical you have, you're not running that amp at 1ohm, you absolutely must be running it at 4.

Consider wiring the sub to a 1ohm load, because I'll go out on a limb and assume it's Dual 2ohm?

And you will probably not see that constant 13.8 if you do this. You'll need mo powa

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

If you're holding steady 14.4 full tilt with what electrical you have, you're not running that amp at 1ohm, you absolutely must be running it at 4.
Consider wiring the sub to a 1ohm load, because I'll go out on a limb and assume it's Dual 2ohm?

And you will probably not see that constant 13.8 if you do this. You'll need mo powa

He speaks da troof...you wont see that electrical setup you mentioned staying very stable with it at 1 ohm...believe me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif

And x2 on looking into a larger alternator or thinking about running a dual-alt setup...you seriously will need a strong electrical setup to keep this amp happy, it rapes the electricalz..

 

[350zspl 10+ year member]

i think i said think those amps only see the rated numbers on 16-18 volts

i think they do less then 5k at 14 volts

 

[Steveoxxx10000d]

I have a XXX10000 and yes it puts out big power...but not that much (not 8500 rms...more like 5300 rms at 1 ohm i believe)...
How were you measuring it?...and at that current draw I would bet anything you were running at 4 ohms or so if that current reading is currect..

I was useing the soundstream power plant with built in current meter. I double checked the wireing and ohm tested the coil load. It actually comes out to 1.3ohms

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

I was useing the soundstream power plant with built in current meter. I double checked the wireing and ohm tested the coil load. It actually comes out to 1.3ohms

Well then I wouldnt trust that then...I would take a DMM and test the voltage and then test the current going out of your speaker outputs for the amp to actually see what the power is real-life..

And if you only have a single run of 1/0 gauge to the rear, I would seriously consider going with another run ontop of that...(fusing both ends of both runs ofcourse)

You must have a decent sized imp rise then. And just like everyone else has said, that ss will **** your little electrical you have when it is pulling full power.

x2

 

[icpurplepplalot 5,000+ posts]

I was useing the soundstream power plant with built in current meter. I double checked the wireing and ohm tested the coil load. It actually comes out to 1.3ohms

You must have a decent sized imp rise then. And just like everyone else has said, that ss will **** your little electrical you have when it is pulling full power.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

And btw...the max current those powerplants can handle is 400 amps...

 

[icpurplepplalot 5,000+ posts]

i think i said think those amps only see the rated numbers on 16-18 volts
i think they do less then 5k at 14 volts

This is true, they do around 5-6k at 14v, it is the same thing as an opti 6k.

 

[Steveoxxx10000d]

I know. I was only useing the power plant to measure the current. My plan was to use two if the current draw went above 400. So you think the meter might not be accurate? I just dont want to spring for a clamp on ammeter that reads DC. I have one for AC.

The speaker is definitly running @1.3ohms. Its a quad 1 ohm coils. The install shop showed me how to parallel 2 coils then parallel the other 2 then series the four to make it all one ohm.

I definitly will look into a bigger alt. I see you went with kinetik batteries.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

I know. I was only useing the power plant to measure the current. My plan was to use two if the current draw went above 400. So you think the meter might not be accurate? I just dont want to spring for a clamp on ammeter that reads DC. I have one for AC.
The speaker is definitly running @1.3ohms. Its a quad 1 ohm coils. The install shop showed me how to parallel 2 coils then parallel the other 2 then series the four to make it all one ohm.

I definitly will look into a bigger alt. I see you went with kinetik batteries.

Well, my front battery is a HC1400 but the pair in the rear are Powermaster XS Power D3100's...

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

You need a 250 amp 16 volt alternator and some 16 volt bats, homie. Then it will be time for a re-cone, LOL.