I think I need a new AMP? Need some Ideas!

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

What have :

Hifonics Z600 (older usa built model) I think about 6 years old.

SPECS

300x2 @ 2 ohm

600x1 @ 4 ohm.

I have 2 Adire Koda 10" on pre-order.

What I think I would rather have :

Good Quality 1000 Watt Amplifier (I'm thinking class A/B)

Would like to run 2 DLS Iridiums 10" woofers (500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms each) or (1000 watts RMS @ 1 ohms combined , in parallel)

The Iridium setup is going to cost me CONSIDERABLY more since I already have an amp for the kodas and the speakers MSRP is 4x the kodas. I have been recomended to run a class A/B amp for SQ woofers such as the Iridiums, but I do not know if anyone makes a 1000 watt A/B amp that is not going to kill my alternator. the DLS A3 or A6 have caught my attention, but it says their max current draw is 140 amps! My Max current my alternator can provide is 130 amps for the entire vehicle.

What should I do? Go ahead with the Koda setup? Go ALL DLS? And if I go all DLS speakers which amp?

Please do not suggest other woofers as they probably will not fit sine I'm limited to 5.75 inch mounting depth.

Click to read more...

 

[loud-n-low 10+ year member]

US amps xa1000 1225watt RMS @ 4ohm mono,bass knob included, class a/b max current draw only 100 amps. LOW thd (unsurprisingly for us amps) cea-2006 certified. oh yea, I own one.

 

[iceteebone 5,000+ posts]

first don't go buy max current draw. why not a class D amp? do the big 3 if you are concerened with electrical problems. what is your budget? a crossfire vr1000D would be nice. underrated 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm, at 12.5 volts and is very effecient.

 

[tplaya07 10+ year member]

The current draw on the DLS amps is not as excessive as it may seem from the specs. I am running a DLS A6 and A4 off my stock alt (90A I believe). I have the Big 3 done with 1/0 ga, and a Optima Yellow top. Unless I'm playing a bass CD or test tones, I have never had a problem with voltage dropping under 13.8V. And even with tt or bass CD, the Voltage drop has never gone so low that the amps would go into protect.

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

tplaya07, how much power if your amp supplying? 1000 watts?

Someone on another forum,

Who bashed everythign I said, Said hte DLS is too unefficient, said Upgrading wireing makes problem worse and said all HU's sound the same and said Class A/B to sub won't matter also lol told me it will trash my alternator.

I can't really upgrade the Big 3 on my truck.

Reason being the Battery terminal connector from factory is also a fused distro block. The wire from the alternator to my battery is is part of this distribution block.

Basicaly I have something like 4ga Might be 2 ga running from alternator to the distro block, then there are various wires fromt eh distro blopck to other parts of the truck.

The distro block is part of the factory battery terminal, but I switched to KnuKonceptz terminals and basicaly ran a small piece of 1/0ga w/ end terminals and connected one end to the KnuKonceptz terminal and the other to the factory Block/Terminal combo.

Now I could Upgrade the wire from teh alternator to the Block IF I could find a way to access the alternator (It may have to be removed as well as a few other parts of the truck toa ccess it) But there is still a 140 amp fuse between the wire entering the block and the Wire connecting the battery terminal to the battery.

I have pics but my server is down //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I have PLENTY of 1/0ga left so thats not the issue.

I just don't think changing from 4ga or 2ga to 1/0 ga for that short of a distance isn't going to do a whole hell of alot. I already changed the wire from battery to gound to 1/0 and ran 1/0 from the battery to the amps.

Basicaly to put it simply its a hgue pain in the *** on my truck to upgrade the wire from the alternator to the terminal and it is not straightforward, since they used a battery terminal/distro block combo.

I think I would need anotehr fused Distro block mounted under the hood and upgrade all the wiring, and for the cost of that I may as well buy a new alternator to go with it, since the gains would IMO be pretty small on my vehicle.

WHY NOT RUN CLASS D?

well from what I have been told the DLS Iridium woofers have Amazing SQ and still get loud, I heard it is not good to drive a SQ woofer off a class D amp, not if you want to get the most out of it. Looks like I will be trying to cancel my order on the Kodas. But I still need to figure out some kinda amp for DLS Iridiums, I'm not sure that amp is such a good idea in my truck, or that I can run ANY CLass A/B amp with that much power without having issues.

In fact it almost sounds like I might end up stuck with Kodas anyways and the class D amp I have? I don't want to have to upgrade the alternator to run 2 10" speakers, (don't knwo if they even make an upgraded alternator for the titan) and other than the Iridiums I think my next best woofer is still the Kodas.

The difference in cost for a new DLS amp amp woofers alone is $700 Vs using my existing amp and getting the kodas. But if I have to upgrade my alternator it's just not worth it.

 

[Cbass 10+ year member]

If you want class A/B kicker ZR1000 would be my choice (1300rms@4ohm)

If you want class D:

Orion 1200d

RF t10001

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

Sorry this is the Largest Best Quality Picture CA lets me attach! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 

[Justintoxicated 10+ year member]

tplaya07 what would be a better amp the A3 or A6?

I still dunno if I should be going with the DLS or kodas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

the A3 looks more flexable?

 

[tplaya07 10+ year member]

I am probably running around 1000watts, not the full 1200+, being that my sub is around 2.6ohm per coil. I would suggest the A6 for the iridium subs for a few reasons. It is a bit cheaper for one, and will give you the same amount of power at 1 ohm. It also comes with a remote phase/level control that can be adjusted 0-180 degrees, whereas the A3 just has the phase button. Also, I don't know what kind of enclosure your putting the subs in, but the A6 has a subsonic filter, which would be very useful for a ported box.

However, if you thought you might ever use the A3 for it's 2-channels purposes later on (components or whatever), and you don't need the additional features of the A6, then it would be fine to go with the A3.

As for the Big 3 upgrade problems, Im not 100% what the issue is for running the new wiring..but the additional wiring can just be ran in addition to the stock wiring. So, you don't HAVE to run through all those ditro blocks, etc. that you were talking about. They can just be ran direct from point to point and use an inline fuse for the posistive connections.

Please PM or email me if you want, if you have any more questions.

 

[tplaya07 10+ year member]

I still dunno if I should be going with the DLS or kodas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

I would say go with the DLS //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif We need more reviews of how good these Iridium subs actually are.

 

[Moocow16 10+ year member]

i've got a 35.1d for sale, $320 shipped, 1600@1ohm, if you're interested. a little overpowering but you don't have to blast the gain.