Hyundai Elantra install question

[Nate42]

Hey guys, I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra. I’m wanting to keep the factory radio (I know I know). But I’ll lose some of the features I bought the car for if I install an aftermarket one according to internet search. Anyway, I’m not new to installing amps, this is just my first time doing it on a factory radio. I’m wanting to install a Dayton HO 12 going to make my own box at around 32-34hz. Obviously going to install an amp. (Recommendations?). Going to be more of a SQ build, wanting to keep it around 500-700 rms. Although the main reason I’m here is because everything I find says LOC and factory amp will roll off around 50hz, which obviously isn’t ideal. I’m curious if anyone has had success getting those low hz in using a factory radio. Any input would be much appreciated, thank you!

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[Lasherž]

Although the main reason I’m here is because everything I find says LOC and factory amp will roll off around 50hz, which obviously isn’t ideal.

The reason for this is to spare the mids and tweeters the burden of high volume bass that could damage them. The way you combat this is with an active LOC and in any new car it's a must have in my opinion.

AudioControl LC2i (Black)

2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system

www.crutchfield.com

This allows you to reverse the roll-off and achieve steady input as the volume increases and decreases for all frequencies. It works great in my Accord and improved every metric of my sub's sound moving from a cheap passive LOC. It also provides outputs that are way stronger than a typical passive and that's a nice feature to have.

I don't have any recommendations for amps that are especially awesome in that range. You said you want a SQ build and you're building your own box, so you're covered for the low end. It will be hard I think for you to get the upper bass range with that box and your stock speakers. Regardless, you should match your amp to the speaker or slightly above the speaker's RMS rating to get the best sound. A slightly over-stressed amp is worse than a slightly over-stressed sub for both the sub and the amp.

A great explanation here:

Why Too Little Power will NOT blow Your Speakers

This page of the bcae1.com site explains why too little power will NOT damage speakers.

www.bcae1.com

For getting started as a base line I'd get something like:

Rockford Fosgate Power T750X1bd

Compact mono subwoofer amplifier — 750 watts RMS x 1 at 1 to 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

or:

Rockford Fosgate R2-750X1

Prime Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 750 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

www.crutchfield.com

Of those two the power will sound better, but the prime is quite good for low bass. You don't need the cleanest output for driving a sub near 50hz, but in the upper range like if you went sealed you'd probably be way better off with the power series one.

 

[Nate42]

The reason for this is to spare the mids and tweeters the burden of high volume bass that could damage them. The way you combat this is with an active LOC and in any new car it's a must have in my opinion.

AudioControl LC2i (Black)

2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system

www.crutchfield.com

This allows you to reverse the roll-off and achieve steady input as the volume increases and decreases for all frequencies. It works great in my Accord and improved every metric of my sub's sound moving from a cheap passive LOC. It also provides outputs that are way stronger than a typical passive and that's a nice feature to have.

I don't have any recommendations for amps that are especially awesome in that range. You said you want a SQ build and you're building your own box, so you're covered for the low end. It will be hard I think for you to get the upper bass range with that box and your stock speakers. Regardless, you should match your amp to the speaker or slightly below the RMS rating to get the best sound. A slightly over-stressed amp is worse than a slightly over-stressed sub for both the sub and the amp.

For getting started as a base line I'd get something like

Rockford Fosgate Power T750X1bd

Compact mono subwoofer amplifier — 750 watts RMS x 1 at 1 to 2 ohms

www.crutchfield.com

or

Rockford Fosgate R2-750X1

Prime Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 750 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm

www.crutchfield.com

Of those two the power will sound better, but the prime is quite good for low bass. You don't need the cleanest output for driving a sub near 50hz, but in the upper range like if you went sealed you'd probably be way better off with the power series one.

This LOC is actually the one I was looking at but I saw somewhere it cuts off around 33hz. Do you have any issues with it playing lower hz? Also, when you installed it, did you tap into the rear speakers, or did you do it by the head unit to bypass the factory amp? I could be completely over thinking this lol, I just don’t want to spend the money on all the equipment and make a box for it to play at 50hz lol I appreciate the reply by the way

 

[Lasherž]

This LOC is actually the one I was looking at but I saw somewhere it cuts off around 33hz. Do you have any issues with it playing lower hz? Also, when you installed it, did you tap into the rear speakers, or did you do it by the head unit to bypass the factory amp? I could be completely over thinking this lol, I just don’t want to spend the money on all the equipment and make a box for it to play at 50hz lol I appreciate the reply by the way

It doesn't cut off at 33hz, but your car might have attenuated it down to 0 by then. In my case I've never noticed missing notes compared to my old setup where I went directly from an aftermarket head unit to the same amplifier. If anything I saw an improvement due to the increased signal strength of the LC2-i. I tapped into the rear speakers for mine, but I didn't have the EX package so I didn't have an amp to avoid. Either way the LC2-i can accept like 400W of input power, no little factory amp is putting that out.

You may be overthinking it, but I think everyone does, nothing wrong with running an idea through someone else if it's not all 100% certain in your head.

 

[Lasherž]

This LOC is actually the one I was looking at but I saw somewhere it cuts off around 33hz.

I saw the forum posing that question. I think that they're referring to the main output channel, not the bass. I find it very hard to believe that it does actually drop off at 33, as my old subwoofer enclosure was also tuned to 35ish hz and it got significantly louder at low hz volume moving from passive to active. I also know for a fact that the woofers still move at 10hz when the subsonic filter of my amp is turned off.

 

[Nate42]

I saw the forum posing that question. I think that they're referring to the main output channel, not the bass. I find it very hard to believe that it does actually drop off at 33, as my old subwoofer enclosure was also tuned to 35ish hz and it got significantly louder at low hz volume moving from passive to active. I also know for a fact that the woofers still move at 10hz when the subsonic filter of my amp is turned off.

Awesome! Thanks so much for the reply, I’ll probably pull the trigger and go for it. I appreciate the help