How to wire speakers with DEH-80PRS 3 way or front back and sub?

[imsickofweed]

I really want an 80prs for all the tuning capabilities it has, but the way pioneer recommends to wire it up for better sound is incompatable with my current setup I think. Right now I have focal 165 components in the front and hertz hcx165 coax for the rear doors that I havent installed yet, the sub is not in at the moment, but I dont think it matters. If i go 3 way active with the 80prs that would be one channel to the tweeters, one to the focals in the front doors and one for the subs, correct? That leaves me without a channel for the rear door hertz coax speakers. I dont really mind getting rid of the rear door stuff because I havent installed them yet, only ran the 14ga for them and dynamatted the doors. My amp is an alpine pdx-v9 with 100Wx4 and 500Wx1. My current head unit is a pioneer fh-8000bt it has some tuning capabilities, but I bought it for the iphone controls which dont work any more for iphone 4s and up. I still use my old 3gs as an ipod, but it would be nice to be able to hook up my 5 and my wifes 6s. Im still relatively new and this is my first real thought out system so any and all help and advice is much appreciated.

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I really want an 80prs for all the tuning capabilities it has, but the way pioneer recommends to wire it up for better sound is incompatable with my current setup I think. Right now I have focal 165 components in the front and hertz hcx165 coax for the rear doors that I havent installed yet, the sub is not in at the moment, but I dont think it matters. If i go 3 way active with the 80prs that would be one channel to the tweeters, one to the focals in the front doors and one for the subs, correct? That leaves me without a channel for the rear door hertz coax speakers. I dont really mind getting rid of the rear door stuff because I havent installed them yet, only ran the 14ga for them and dynamatted the doors. My amp is an alpine pdx-v9 with 100Wx4 and 500Wx1. My current head unit is a pioneer fh-8000bt it has some tuning capabilities, but I bought it for the iphone controls which dont work any more for iphone 4s and up. I still use my old 3gs as an ipod, but it would be nice to be able to hook up my 5 and my wifes 6s. Im still relatively new and this is my first real thought out system so any and all help and advice is much appreciated.

Here's what you can do

Get a big 2 channel amp wire the front mids to it along with the rear to it as well

a smaller 2 channel for your tweeters

then subwoofer

Basically you wont get fullrange sound in the back, just mainly mids but you'll have something in the back along with being fully active up front.

But yeah i'd just get rid of the back, sell it and focus all on the front.

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

I really want an 80prs for all the tuning capabilities it has, but the way pioneer recommends to wire it up for better sound is incompatable with my current setup I think. Right now I have focal 165 components in the front and hertz hcx165 coax for the rear doors that I havent installed yet, the sub is not in at the moment, but I dont think it matters. If i go 3 way active with the 80prs that would be one channel to the tweeters, one to the focals in the front doors and one for the subs, correct? That leaves me without a channel for the rear door hertz coax speakers. I dont really mind getting rid of the rear door stuff because I havent installed them yet, only ran the 14ga for them and dynamatted the doors. My amp is an alpine pdx-v9 with 100Wx4 and 500Wx1. My current head unit is a pioneer fh-8000bt it has some tuning capabilities, but I bought it for the iphone controls which dont work any more for iphone 4s and up. I still use my old 3gs as an ipod, but it would be nice to be able to hook up my 5 and my wifes 6s. Im still relatively new and this is my first real thought out system so any and all help and advice is much appreciated.

Yes you are correct. The 80prs can only do tweets, front mids, and sub for an active 3 way. You could run your fronts passive to keep your rears but it kinda defeats the purpose of buying an active capable headunit. I can attest that this HU is compatible with the newer iphones like your 5 and 6s. This headunit sure does have a good amount of controls that I haven't seen in many other units. Doesn't have as much precision as a dedicated DSP but for the average user it has plenty. The greatest part about this unit is that it has a SD reader. I currently have a 64gb but i've heard people putting 128gb with no issues. One complaint I have is the buttons are very flimsy and easy to break. I broke my track knob the first day I got it before realizing I could do all the tuning with the remote itself. I kinda expected that to happen but not that fast lol. Overall, I still think it's a great Hu for the price. I got mine for just under $250. I know that the 99prs can do 3 way front stage + rear + sub but it's quite expensive so might as well go dedicated DSP for that price.

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[imsickofweed]

I want to avoid buying another amp but maybe this idea might work...

Run 3 way active with tweets, and front door mids off the 100Wx4, and rear door 6.5" subwoofers off of the 500w sub channel on the pdx-v9. I realize that subs in stock doors wont sound great, but what if they were dynamatted and sealed up with some ccf and what not? Currently I dont have a rear sub for my 5th channel on the amp, so I can add a mono amp and sub later on for the rear to help with the doors. Would the rear door sub idea help at all or would it just sound like crap?

What about just keeping my current HU and running the front door mids and tweets with the focal crossovers on 2 channels and rear hertz hcx165s on the other 2 amp channels? I know its not as tuneable without the 80prs but that avoids having to buy anything else right now. Is it better in general to skip the rear doors and just focus on the front? Im usually the only one riding around in my Escape and a lot of times I have the rear seats folded down carrying cargo, which covers the rear speakers anyway. When the seats are up and the speakers are uncovered would they add to the musical experience or takeaway?

 

[blazian87 10+ year member]

I want to avoid buying another amp but maybe this idea might work...Run 3 way active with tweets, and front door mids off the 100Wx4, and rear door 6.5" subwoofers off of the 500w sub channel on the pdx-v9. I realize that subs in stock doors wont sound great, but what if they were dynamatted and sealed up with some ccf and what not? Currently I dont have a rear sub for my 5th channel on the amp, so I can add a mono amp and sub later on for the rear to help with the doors. Would the rear door sub idea help at all or would it just sound like crap?

What about just keeping my current HU and running the front door mids and tweets with the focal crossovers on 2 channels and rear hertz hcx165s on the other 2 amp channels? I know its not as tuneable without the 80prs but that avoids having to buy anything else right now. Is it better in general to skip the rear doors and just focus on the front? Im usually the only one riding around in my Escape and a lot of times I have the rear seats folded down carrying cargo, which covers the rear speakers anyway. When the seats are up and the speakers are uncovered would they add to the musical experience or takeaway?

Using a 6.5" in the rear door stock location does no justice in that vehicle. I think you should atleast put a small 10" in there and make a small enclosure with it if you're worried about space. It will definitely complete the low end spectrum of your music if you're trying to accomplish your first thought out system.

Keeping your current HU and setting everything up passive is completely fine too if you're on a budget. You won't have to spend a ridiculous amount of time tuning all the specs and you'll have rear speakers to fill the void for backseat passengers if you have any. But since you say you mostly drive alone then yea it might take away from your musical experience from your front stage. If you do use rear speakers, treat it as rear fill so that it just complements it. You don't want your attention to draw towards the back ideally. Especially if you're the only one in the car. And then blocking or obstructing the rear speakers path will result to like a muffled sound, less clear, will probably ruin your experience. Keeping them open will help of course but you really want to focus everything on front stage if you're primarily the one listening to it.

 

[imsickofweed]

Using a 6.5" in the rear door stock location does no justice in that vehicle. I think you should atleast put a small 10" in there and make a small enclosure with it if you're worried about space. It will definitely complete the low end spectrum of your music if you're trying to accomplish your first thought out system.
Keeping your current HU and setting everything up passive is completely fine too if you're on a budget. You won't have to spend a ridiculous amount of time tuning all the specs and you'll have rear speakers to fill the void for backseat passengers if you have any. But since you say you mostly drive alone then yea it might take away from your musical experience from your front stage. If you do use rear speakers, treat it as rear fill so that it just complements it. You don't want your attention to draw towards the back ideally. Especially if you're the only one in the car. And then blocking or obstructing the rear speakers path will result to like a muffled sound, less clear, will probably ruin your experience. Keeping them open will help of course but you really want to focus everything on front stage if you're primarily the one listening to it.

Thats what I figured, I dont want to modify the rear doors to accept a 10", the factory speakers are 6x8s and the 6.5s I have will theoretically fit with an adapter ring, but I wont need to cut. Ive always had rear speakers, but I never really thought it took away from anything. I used to have a 74 plymouth duster with 6x9s in boxes on the back seat and I thought that was pretty rad at 15 and a half years old. These will be my first pair of decent quality front door speakers and I want to do it right, so Im very glad everyone here is so helpful and so fast to respond to questions from the inexperienced.

 

[imsickofweed]

I just started a build log and I hope everyone will come check it out. I have a few threads going, but they all pertain to my build. I have a link in the signature.

 

[Fast-N-Loud]

This is the single best rought for your set up. I use to own that same headunit. ITs wonderful I might add. Best single din I have ever used. My suggestion is forget running it as a three way st up. I suggest getting a 3 Channel amp as I did. I had a JL audio xd500-3. I ran the front components and sub off the amp and left the rear speakers running off the head unit alone. This was a wonderful set up in my opinoin. I was using image dynamics front components and Jl audio 12w3 sub. When you install everything and have it up and running I suggest using the small speacker thing that comes with the Pioneed headunit for auto sound timing adjustment. It worled out really good for me. it plugs into the front of the reciever and than it makes wierd noises with all your speakers and pretty much sets everything up for you on its own. The only thing you might wanna tweek than is a liitle bit on the EQ for your taste. Great headunit you wont be let down. Peace hope this helps out some.

 

[imsickofweed]

I dont have the 80prs yet, Im currently running the p8000bt also by pioneer, my amp is a 5 channel alpine pdx-v9, and the only thing I planned to run in the rear doors were the peerless sls 8s in parallel on channels 3 and 4 bridged. Im still leaning towards getting the 80prs, but a few people have told me there are ways to time delay on the p8000bt. Im going to read up in the manual when I get a chance.