How to wire 1 sub and 2 midbass on single 500W channel?

[imsickofweed]

I was looking at a single 4 ohm dayton dsc205-4 8" subwoofer and 2 8 ohm Morel MW-266 8" midbass. Im not sure if all of these can be powered on one channel but this is how I would do it...

Wire the 2 morels in parallel making 4 ohms and then wire that set in parallel with the dayton making 2 ohms. My amp is 2ohm stable so theres no problem there, but what do I set the gain for? Each of these subs are rated for 150w rms each for a total of 450w. Do i set the gain for 450w rms or is it a more complicated calculation?

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[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

What are you planning on doing about crossover points?

 

[imsickofweed]

They would all be crossed together obviously, their frequency ranges are similar and the only other speakers in the car would be a pair of focal ps165 components. Im still kind of new to this so I hadnt got to the crossover point figuring stage yet. Amp is an alpine pdx-v9 btw.

 

[imsickofweed]

So I checked the frequency response on the dayton again and it only goes up to 200Hz, I was reading 2000Hz. So I guess my idea wont work for that speaker in particular. Im still curious on how to wire 3 speakers like that given that they have similar frequency response bandwidths. If I just do the morels in the rear doors in parallel, do I have to supply 300w, 150w, or 75w? If I do all 3 do I supply 450w, 300w, or some other amount.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Lol. This should be interesting

 

[garychoffmann 10+ year member]

If you're dead set on doing it this way you're going to need to use a passive crossover network. Low pass the sub at 80 hz and high pass the mids around there. Running them all the same frequencies may have ill effects

 

[imsickofweed]

what would be better for overall bass 1 dayton 8" sub in the factory 8" 0.35ft3 box or 2 morel 8" midbass in the rear doors that are sealed with dynamat etc.

 

[The Camry]

what would be better for overall bass 1 dayton 8" sub in the factory 8" 0.35ft3 box or 2 morel 8" midbass in the rear doors that are sealed with dynamat etc.

More cone area always wins. If the factory box is ported though. That might be equal to two 8s IB

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[imsickofweed]

More cone area always wins. If the factory box is ported though. That might be equal to two 8s IB
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Sub box is sealed and will eventually be fiberglassed and supported with dowls or something on the inside for added rigidity. I should be able to fit 8s in the rear doors without much modification, factory is 6x8s.

Heres another question...

Focal comps will be fed on 2 100wrms channels, rear door 8s on 2 more channels of the same and the 8" sub in the factory box on 500wrms channel of my pdx-v9. Later on I go active, should I add a small 2 channel amp to push the tweets or put the 8s in the rear doors on the 500w sub channel, and buy another mono amp for the 8" sub in the factory box?

 

[The Camry]

Sub box is sealed and will eventually be fiberglassed and supported with dowls or something on the inside for added rigidity. I should be able to fit 8s in the rear doors without much modification, factory is 6x8s.
Heres another question...

Focal comps will be fed on 2 100wrms channels, rear door 8s on 2 more channels of the same and the 8" sub in the factory box on 500wrms channel of my pdx-v9. Later on I go active, should I add a small 2 channel amp to push the tweets or put the 8s in the rear doors on the 500w sub channel, and buy another mono amp for the 8" sub in the factory box?

Go with a small amp for the tweets. That way all you have to do is ditch the passives and run new speaker wire thrn run the dsps patch cables to the amps.

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[imsickofweed]

Im going to run the wire for the tweets and mids in the front door and have the passive crossovers in the cabin so I wont have to take the door panels off again. I was leaning that way already because a small 2 channel tweeter amp is much cheaper than a mono sub amp. What do you think of the fosgate R150x2? Should I go D class on the tweets or try for an A or AB? The Kicker DXA125.2 has a better signal ro noise ratio, but it lacks pre-amp rca pass throughs which Ill need if I dont want to run a splitter. If I go active Ill probably go with an 80prs.

 

[The Camry]

Im going to run the wire for the tweets and mids in the front door and have the passive crossovers in the cabin so I wont have to take the door panels off again. I was leaning that way already because a small 2 channel tweeter amp is much cheaper than a mono sub amp. What do you think of the fosgate R150x2? Should I go D class on the tweets or try for an A or AB? The Kicker DXA125.2 has a better signal ro noise ratio, but it lacks pre-amp rca pass throughs which Ill need if I dont want to run a splitter. If I go active Ill probably go with an 80prs.

Get a c-dsp instead of an 80-prs and keep your current headunit.

Go with whatevers cheapest for you.

A/b and todays D are supposed to be pretty close in sq arenas

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[imsickofweed]

Ok thanks for the advice, I was pretty set on getting an 80prs eventually, but Ill look into the c-dsp. Any reason why I shouldnt go for the 80prs, everyone on here seems to hold that HU in high regard.