How to improve install

plyer3
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Looking for opinions on what needs to be changed in this install. Mostly everything is done by me and my friend. The only thing that wasn't was the running of the 0 gauge which the shop did a crappy job.

For some reason I get some engine noise sometimes. It's back again //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/verymad.gif.3f39c5c2fd57527b671fad3efdfac756.gif

But it's only sometimes and very faint. Can only hear it a little when vol is at 0. I don't know what's causing it, but sometimes the neg speaker wire from one of my rears falls out and that may be causing it. Will have to get some new speaker spade/sliders to stop it.

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Kinetik Hc1400 in front, we were in a hurry to install and did a cheap install on the neg and pos of battery. The big 3 is done with 0 gauge wires.

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0 gauge power wire from alternator to battery

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Fosgate, and yes I know it's bad to put amp on box, but i have no where else to put this huge amp. will probably put it in another location if i have room. wires are messy, but will clean up later.

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box built by friend. it was originally made for 2 12s, then had to be modified 3 more times for 1 12. 3.6 cubic ft, ported.

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2nd hc1400 in back

 
my only advise would be find somewhere to put those loose in-line fuses and do something about the bare wire showing on the pics of the batterys.
yea, i noticed that after the installs. those wires are hard to cut. will fix the trunk later when i get the time.

 
use some heat shrink over your terminal ends instead of electrical tape. you should move that Kinetik to the other side, flip the amp around, this will keep your power wires from crossing with your signal wires. shorten up your wires some, no reason to have 8 feet of speaker wire wrapped around you power wire when the terminal is a few inches away.

btw there are some basic things you can do to make it look really nice. you'd have to start by building a new box utilizing more of the space from the back seat to the box not being utilized. you make a simple battery box to hold the Kinetik right behind the rear tire well. also make little enclosure or rack for the amp to be mounted on the opposite tire well. it's not total Mickey Mouse work but it is pretty easy to do.

 
use some heat shrink over your terminal ends instead of electrical tape. you should move that Kinetik to the other side, flip the amp around, this will keep your power wires from crossing with your signal wires. shorten up your wires some, no reason to have 8 feet of speaker wire wrapped around you power wire when the terminal is a few inches away.
btw there are some basic things you can do to make it look really nice. you'd have to start by building a new box utilizing more of the space from the back seat to the box not being utilized. you make a simple battery box to hold the Kinetik right behind the rear tire well. also make little enclosure or rack for the amp to be mounted on the opposite tire well. it's not total Mickey Mouse work but it is pretty easy to do.
^^ ditto

Your RCA are crossing power wire that would do it. Some how get them to uncross then see if the noise is still there.

 
Altamere ran it, I'll probably have to take out my seat and rerun them under the carpet.

Yea, I'll probably get a custom box. That was just a cheap box a friend built for me.

EDIT: Oh the Hc1400 wont fit on the other side.

 
i noticed in the 3rd pic that your wire from the alternator to the batt is just hanging there dangerously close to the exhaust manifold... i know you have it fused, but you should still secure that

 
i noticed in the 3rd pic that your wire from the alternator to the batt is just hanging there dangerously close to the exhaust manifold... i know you have it fused, but you should still secure that
it's not loose, but may have to move it around to secure it.

 
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plyer3

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