How do I make my own 3-way component system?

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

if you get a passive 2 way setup....add a decent 8 inch driver to run separate off the amp on a low pass only it is easy to incorporate it all together.

you are assuming he can fit a 6.5" mid and 8" midbass without heavy modifications to the door. we don't even know the vehicle.

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

you are assuming he can fit a 6.5" mid and 8" midbass without heavy modifications to the door. we don't even know the vehicle.

This is true. There really is no reason for the OP to run a 3 way. I personally would just run a 2 way passive and be done with it if I were him.

I am installing a 4" component set wit an 8" to make a 3-way in the wife's touareg.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I have been running a 4" mid and 6.5" midbass for years and I am happy. I run the following crossover points:

Subwoofer: 80Hz 24dB/oct LPF

Midbass: 63Hz 24dB/oct HPF and 250Hz 24dB/oct LPF

Midrange: 315Hz 24dB/oct HPF

Tweeter: 4kHz 24dB/oct HPF

I run the mid without a LPF because it is off axis in the kick and has a natural roll off that I verified with my RTA. When on-axis I varied the LPF frequency and slope but minimum overlap was preferred.

Most 6.5 can easily play down to 63Hz, and I don't see a need to HPF lower. The benefit is to run the midbass in the door where you have sufficient airspace, but you can place the midrange for better PLD or ITD.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I have been running a 4" mid and 6.5" midbass for years and I am happy. I run the following crossover points:Subwoofer: 80Hz 24dB/oct LPF

Midbass: 63Hz 24dB/oct HPF and 250Hz 24dB/oct LPF

Midrange: 315Hz 24dB/oct HPF

Tweeter: 4kHz 24dB/oct HPF

I run the mid without a LPF because it is off axis in the kick and has a natural roll off that I verified with my RTA. When on-axis I varied the LPF frequency and slope but minimum overlap was preferred.

Most 6.5 can easily play down to 63Hz, and I don't see a need to HPF lower. The benefit is to run the midbass in the door where you have sufficient airspace, but you can place the midrange for better PLD or ITD.

Pics of said kicks?

I had almost identical xover points at one time but the mids were in my stock door locations with midbass in kicks (scion tC) and I got more highs from the passenger side assuming since it was more on axis. It would really pull my stage down on the right side too since my tweets were on the dash.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Pics of said kicks?
I had almost identical xover points at one time but the mids were in my stock door locations with midbass in kicks (scion tC) and I got more highs from the passenger side assuming since it was more on axis. It would really pull my stage down on the right side too since my tweets were on the dash.

midbass is vented

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

my speakers have changed but locations and mounting is the same.

new mids are Dayton 4" - the side mid baffle is removable (recessed 1/4-20 t-nuts in the base) and here are two new baffles.

i tested side kick vs floor kick while my midbass was in the door. i recently moved midbass back to the floor so i could start on FG pods for new midbass in the doors - will be sealed door pod that replaces the bottom half and uses the existing volume for sealed airspace. should be fun.

this was during recent testing - i had a 4" mid in the floor, made an adapter to take the place of the woofer with waffle grill for strength. people commonly put there feet on the floor grill. on-axis response was great - well above 10kHz.

sadly, the new Silver Flute woofers are too deep and wide for the floor, and too big for the door as-is. i had the option of doing 2-way with the woofers in the kicks - angled, but that would require full demo of all kick work to date. i figure door pods are a better first step. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif i don't want to lose music during the process!