How do I get bass out of my door speakers?

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

top hole

now that the holes are closed up, remove the foam on the door panel

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

to prevent noises with the panel on the deadener, we covered the door with CCF and also foamed each panel clip

repeat on the passenger side

finished

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

@keep_hope_alive;
Why on earth would you do 100% coverage off cld. Such a waste.....

Sarcasm......

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

all three cars have awesome midbass response. you can see/feel your pants move.

all have front components that cost $500-$900. But $100 speakers would sound great in these doors.

all have external amplifiers on the speakers for plenty of clean power.

All have a combination of deadening, fiberglass bags, foam weatherstripping, and are fully sealed.

Deadening:

The van has 8 sq. ft. per door.

The accord and scion have closer to 20 sq. ft. per door.

The front doors are responsible for most of what you hear, and should receive more attention than anything else in the system. To duplicate this, you should budget 10 hours per door, start to finish. Can be done in half that time if you already know what you are doing.

some people say 25% deadener coverage is all you need and more than that is wasting it. i know a few acoustical engineers that would disagree with their marketing attempts. "buy my product and use less". Fact is, patches create multiple resonance modes. The industry tests damping and resonance by knocking on the panels. knock until the entire panel is dead and you have achieved your goal. ideally, you would add enough mass and damping to lower the resonance frequency to be below the speaker range. simply adding layers of wood to the inner door would come very close to achieving that goal. 2" of wood is pretty dead. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif also, besides making the car very, very dead. 100% coverage also greatly improves transmission loss (blocks noise).

CCF is just to isolate the door panel from the door metal. could just be done where the panel contacts the door. instead of CCF, you could use fabrics like felt or fleece. buzzing isolation is just soft stuff between hard things. pretty simple.

closed cell foam doesn't absorb or block much sound (highs get blocked). open cell foam barely absorbs sound and doesn't block sound either. the next step is Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) for road noise blocking. but door seals themselves and the glass are larger sources once you do the above.

 

[calebkhill 10+ year member]

all three cars have awesome midbass response. you can see/feel your pants move.all have front components that cost $500-$900. But $100 speakers would sound great in these doors.

all have external amplifiers on the speakers for plenty of clean power.

All have a combination of deadening, fiberglass bags, foam weatherstripping, and are fully sealed.

Deadening:

The van has 8 sq. ft. per door.

The accord and scion have closer to 20 sq. ft. per door.

The front doors are responsible for most of what you hear, and should receive more attention than anything else in the system. To duplicate this, you should budget 10 hours per door, start to finish. Can be done in half that time if you already know what you are doing.

some people say 25% deadener coverage is all you need and more than that is wasting it. i know a few acoustical engineers that would disagree with their marketing attempts. "buy my product and use less". Fact is, patches create multiple resonance modes. The industry tests damping and resonance by knocking on the panels. knock until the entire panel is dead and you have achieved your goal.

CCF is just to isolate the door panel from the door metal. could just be done where the panel contacts the door. instead of CCF, you could use fabrics like felt or fleece. buzzing isolation is just soft stuff between hard things. pretty simple.

closed cell foam doesn't absorb or block much sound (highs get blocked). open cell foam barely absorbs sound and doesn't block sound either. the next step is Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV) for road noise blocking. but door seals themselves and the glass are larger sources once you do the above.

Thanks for a very thorough response kha

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

sorry to resurrect an old thread but this is a very awesome thread with great info.

Got some spare time tomorrow so I'm gonna take off the door panels tomorrow to work on rear wave absorption with fiberglass insulation tomorrow and i got a question,
@keep_hope_alive ; where do you get your 1 millimeter plastic sheet for cheap? all the packages they have at home depot are around 35-60 dollars each... and have a long delivery time Can 2 or 4 or 6 millimeter work? Or is it going to cause plastic noise or even reflecting waves? Also what do you use to seal the plastic sheets into bags? would this be fine? http://www.walmart.com/ip/iTouchless-Bag-Re-Sealer-for-All-Plastic-Bags-2-Unit-Pack/10247581

EDIT: How about two layers of the plastic food wrap? Would that work? i have a ton of those at home.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

my local hardware stores have painters drop cloth in 1mil thickness for $3.

and yes, grocery bags would also work. thinner is better.

 

[BockSTK]

****...I just learned a lot!