How can an Amp sound awsome but need $75 in repairs

[etznova 10+ year member]

Well I originally sold the amp to Korn I had it in my vehicle mostly strapped but i did run it it unstrapped for a good amount of time with no issues. A turnoff or on pop is a common RCA problem that originates from the HU and moves down the ladder from there

I sold each of the VFL's i had to two seperate people, Korn and the other guy never came to me about any issues. And i know the other that bought the twin caused a direct short across the power terminals and the amp survived. I would have to agree with everyone else either the guy that bought it from korn hooked it up wrong during install causeing a an internal problem or he had a shitty setup before and wasn't able to detect the on/off pop with his last amp.

 

[valter 10+ year member]

For some amps turn-on pop is ok. For some, it means faulty turn-on circuit (like RF 1000bd). Can't comment about your amp though...

 

[Jep772 10+ year member]

tell em to turn the deck off before he turns the car off and save the money

 

[etznova 10+ year member]

For some amps turn-on pop is ok. For some, it means faulty turn-on circuit (like RF 1000bd). Can't comment about your amp though...

Yeah that to can happen. but it is ussually amplified (much worse) with a bad HU or install wiring/grounding

 

[skateboardkid 10+ year member]

probably bad wiring, crap HU, or his remote is ghetto to the fuse box or something so it doesnt turn off before the CD player turn off.

 

[AudioFreak 10+ year member]

Here is what db-r told me.

http://www.db-r.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1211057463

Also i believe they are full of shit and just trying to make $75 so i went ahead and looked some shit up for my self and its just the remote relay so my bad man didnt mean to waste your time. I have a new head unit coming in this week ill see if that works any better for me but if not ill just get a remote relay switch.

And i left you possitve feedback.

 

[yunvme666 10+ year member]

if its anything like my old z1 it may just be the vehicle my 500.1 has no pop.... and the z1 doesnt in the new owners vehicle......prettymuch the only reason i sold it....lol... oh well i love ab amps more....

 

[its_bacon12 10+ year member]

My Coustic 510-DR has a bad cap in the power supply. Sounded great, but it stopped playing after about 4 months.

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

Here is what db-r told me.
http://www.db-r.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1211057463

Also i believe they are full of shit and just trying to make $75 so i went ahead and looked some shit up for my self and its just the remote relay so my bad man didnt mean to waste your time. I have a new head unit coming in this week ill see if that works any better for me but if not ill just get a remote relay switch.

And i left you possitve feedback.

I would definitely upgrade your cable from 8 ga to 4 ga.

 

[MyFartsStink 10+ year member]

I get my vfl tomarow. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Korn4Life 5,000+ posts]

u excited?

 

[etznova 10+ year member]

I would definitely upgrade your cable from 8 ga to 4 ga.

well theres your problem 8ga is not enough 4ga will help but still not not enough

they have 0ga power terminals for a reason, I would check your HU and upgrade your wiring for sure before you go any further

And either way if the amp did need repair I would look else where like

Amp Repair Center they at least offer return shipping. they just repaired my Z1 for the cost of the parts and paid for return shipping

 

[dB-r 10+ year member]

The problem with the VFL150.1 popping when you turn it on is that there are some little microscopic transistors on the driver board that go bad and when you turn the amp on the drive signal to the outputs is not correctly sync'd and it makes a pop sound. I repaired one for a member of this message board I believe back in Jan that had the same problem. Turned out it wasnt even putting out full power because not all of the outputs where getting drive signal. But in this particular design, which is not a self-oscillating design, as it uses both P-Channel and N-Channel mosfets to produce the output signal, not just N-Channel FETS like most newer class D amps, it still ran fine, and played music fine, but it popped when it turned on and it was not able to put out full power because not all of the outputs were working. You wouldn't know all of this without probing the gates of the outputs with the oscilloscope to see where you are getting correct drive signal and where you are not. If this same scenario where to happen in a "discrete design" self-oscillating Class D amp that uses all N-Channel output FETs it would blow up. But in this older design it will not blow up, but will not put out full power and will have a thump. The transistors in question are some little tiny transistors on the output driver board in the amp.

 

[Safe_Cracker 10+ year member]

Ask the buyer if he has a Pioneer HU and try disconnecting the RCAs when powering up/down to see if it goes away. If he removes the RCAs and it goes away he blew the little micro fuse for the RCA ground output, this can be blown by a fart or hotswapping RCAs ! Don't ask me how I found this out... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Polo..

 

[jco1385 5,000+ posts]

he wants your $75 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

thats is all