Honda Element


TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
Greetings everyone. I am an old man now. My car stereo building days were 25 years ago- putting a Pioneer CD deck in a crown vic, and then trading some Subway Sandwiches (I was a Sandwich Artist) for a couple of questionable 12" subs and an amp. So I didn't know much then. Imagine how little I know now.

Anyhow, I have been browsing various forums looking for ideas on how to get my car stereo up and running. Goals are having a deck with android auto, putting a backup cam on there to keep my wife happy, replacing the rotted factory 2004 speakers, and getting an amp for them and a sub. The car is a 2004 Honda Element. I will also note that I am looking for the install to be stealth.

Here is where I am at:

Subwoofer: The Honda Element was available with a factory sub in the front under the dash. Great location, as it leaves the cargo area open. I really don't want to put a box in the back, as I use the car somewhat often to transport bikes/dogs/bodies. This leads me to an option to replace the factory sub with a JL Audio Stealthbox. SEE HERE. From what I can tell, the SUB should be $250 on its own, so its a pretty steep price for an enclosure, BUT I don't know any other way to keep my cargo area open, and at least a 10" sub would be a huge upgrade from where I am at now. People who have gotten these seem happy.

AMP: I plan to mount the AMP under one of the back seats. The back seats fold up against the sides of the car, and on Honda Element forums (yes they have those!), there are guys who have gone with this mounting location. The seats can still be folded against the side when needed and the amp goes right up with them, leaving my cargo area flat and open. As for the amp itself, I want to keep it simple with 1 5-channel amp. Pricing wise I hope to get something in the $500 range?

Speakers: Fronts are 6.5 components from factory, so I'd just replace them with good ones. The tweeters are up high already. Rears are 6.5 coax, which again I think I'd just replace with good non-rotted ones. Pricing wise I figure $250 for front and $200 for rear?

Deck: Double DIN Android Auto. Open to suggestions. From what I've seen Kenwoods have the best screen res, but that's about all I know. Hope to be able to get something $500 or less.

If I do something like I've described above, will I be rocking out? I understand I won't be winning those competitions where the sound pressures at 50 feet make you get boners or whatever, but will it be badass to drive to work in, listening to good music and forgetting the depressing reality of being 40 years old and working 5 days a week, knowing this will continue until I die or reach the age of 70?

What do you guys like for amp and speakers? I've been reading up on brands like Sundown, which I'd love to try as getting US made stuff would be cool especially if its also awesome. Am I wasting my time if I also don't strip out my entire interior and cover it with dynamat and flashing LEDs?

Please take this opportunity to tell me what to do.

Regards-
 

02WS6

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jan 12, 2020
147
59
Sacramento
Hi Touchmytweeter,

I'm pretty new around these parts but have been doing a ridiculous amount of research for my own system and will offer my .2c FWIW.

Subwoofer: You will find that most of the guys here are firm believers in building a box yourself. Second to that would be having a reputable shop build you something custom for the Element. Seeing as you're in Miami you shouldn't have a problem finding a shop that does Fiberglass work. The last option would be Pre-fab/Stealth enclosure like the JL one you picked out. I think for what you would pay for that JL stealthbox you could probably get a shop in Miami to build you a custom fiberglass enclosure that goes in the same space and put a much nice subwoofer into it. Price out what a custom fiberglass enclosure would run you then put a Fi Audio Alpha or XV3 - 2 Ohm into it. Everything depends on the enclosure but these subs will be a much better 'bang' for your buck than the JL's are. (If you pardon my pun there...lol)

Alpha: https://ficaraudio.com/product/alpha-v2-1-series/
XV3: https://ficaraudio.com/product/xv3-series/

Read up on sealed enclosure recommendations and then depending on what enclosure you go for (hopefully custom fiberglass with carpet) you should still come out spending less than you would on the JL Stealthbox. SSA subwoofers would be another great option, again all depending on what you end up with for enclosure cu/ft volume. Just match sealed enclosure specs to a Fi or SSA sub.

Amp: Now, with the Sub and enclosure matched running at 2 ohm. I'd recommend the Sundown SAE-1100.5. They're Korean made but Sundown has a huge following in the hobbyist world and the amp's make good power without heating up. Another option depending on budget would be Orion or if you're limited due to space a Alpine PDX-V9 would work as well. Just note that the Orion's and Alpine's can get warmer than their Sundown counterparts (from what I've read) especially under a seat without much airflow. FWIW, I personally had a PDX-M6 fail and meltdown a Sub but many others have had great results with them.

Speakers - I'm personally a huge fan of CDT and with the 5-Channel Amp I recommended you're gonna want 2-Ohm Mid's to run the amp's rated 120Wx4. So bearing that in mind I'd say CDT CL-650.2 up front and CDT CL-61CV.2 (2 Ohm version) for the rears. (These stay within your stated budget and meet all other criteria). Focal and Hertz are other great options but I don't know if you'll find 6.5 Components/Coax @ 2 Ohm in your price range with those brands.

Deck - I'm partial to Pioneer's NEX series but if you only care about Android Auto then I'd say the Kenwood DDX8905S or DDX9905S will be your best bet and meets your budget. Compare the two and go with whichever you like more.

I've given you a few options to play with where you can adjust your budget just in case the Audio shops in your area charge a lot for custom sub enclosures to meet the unique needs of your Element. Hopefully this helps but as anyone will tell you - The sub enclosure will make or break how the system sounds overall. Most would recommend building a tuned MDF enclosure and putting it in the back of your car - Space be damned, but as I'm in the same boat as you. Whereas I'm having a shop custom fit a sealed fiberglass enclosure for my car for $280, hopefully you can find a shop in your area to do the same. Once you have Cu/ft, then pick your sub, then match amp and match speakers to the 5-Channel you end up going with.
 
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Louisiana_CRX

dem shoes......
10+ year member
Aug 22, 2006
38,898
277
Piney Hills of Louisiana
Greetings everyone. I am an old man now. My car stereo building days were 25 years ago- putting a Pioneer CD deck in a crown vic, and then trading some Subway Sandwiches (I was a Sandwich Artist) for a couple of questionable 12" subs and an amp. So I didn't know much then. Imagine how little I know now.

Anyhow, I have been browsing various forums looking for ideas on how to get my car stereo up and running. Goals are having a deck with android auto, putting a backup cam on there to keep my wife happy, replacing the rotted factory 2004 speakers, and getting an amp for them and a sub. The car is a 2004 Honda Element. I will also note that I am looking for the install to be stealth.

Here is where I am at:

Subwoofer: The Honda Element was available with a factory sub in the front under the dash. Great location, as it leaves the cargo area open. I really don't want to put a box in the back, as I use the car somewhat often to transport bikes/dogs/bodies. This leads me to an option to replace the factory sub with a JL Audio Stealthbox. SEE HERE. From what I can tell, the SUB should be $250 on its own, so its a pretty steep price for an enclosure, BUT I don't know any other way to keep my cargo area open, and at least a 10" sub would be a huge upgrade from where I am at now. People who have gotten these seem happy.

AMP: I plan to mount the AMP under one of the back seats. The back seats fold up against the sides of the car, and on Honda Element forums (yes they have those!), there are guys who have gone with this mounting location. The seats can still be folded against the side when needed and the amp goes right up with them, leaving my cargo area flat and open. As for the amp itself, I want to keep it simple with 1 5-channel amp. Pricing wise I hope to get something in the $500 range?

Speakers: Fronts are 6.5 components from factory, so I'd just replace them with good ones. The tweeters are up high already. Rears are 6.5 coax, which again I think I'd just replace with good non-rotted ones. Pricing wise I figure $250 for front and $200 for rear?

Deck: Double DIN Android Auto. Open to suggestions. From what I've seen Kenwoods have the best screen res, but that's about all I know. Hope to be able to get something $500 or less.

If I do something like I've described above, will I be rocking out? I understand I won't be winning those competitions where the sound pressures at 50 feet make you get boners or whatever, but will it be badass to drive to work in, listening to good music and forgetting the depressing reality of being 40 years old and working 5 days a week, knowing this will continue until I die or reach the age of 70?

What do you guys like for amp and speakers? I've been reading up on brands like Sundown, which I'd love to try as getting US made stuff would be cool especially if its also awesome. Am I wasting my time if I also don't strip out my entire interior and cover it with dynamat and flashing LEDs?

Please take this opportunity to tell me what to do.

Regards-
Nice ride .. I’ve always liked the first gen elements the best unfortunately I’ve never owned one . Keeping the sound up front will give you the best sound stage . There should be sub options to replace your factory sub . And as far as rear speakers run cheap dual cones no tweeters they will destroy a quality soundstage .. actually you don’t have to run rear speakers at all and if you do they only need to be a presence barely audible deck power is plenty.
Put money towards a 4ch amp to run components up front and bridge chs for the sub a true 50x4 should be perfect . 50x2 up front and about 200 on the sub bridged
 
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TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
Nice ride .. I’ve always liked the first gen elements the best unfortunately I’ve never owned one . Keeping the sound up front will give you the best sound stage . There should be sub options to replace your factory sub . And as far as rear speakers run cheap dual cones no tweeters they will destroy a quality soundstage .. actually you don’t have to run rear speakers at all and if you do they only need to be a presence barely audible deck power is plenty.
Put money towards a 4ch amp to run components up front and bridge chs for the sub a true 50x4 should be perfect . 50x2 up front and about 200 on the sub bridged
I bought the element a few years ago to get my greyhound to the doctor. Thought I would sell it after that, but damn if it isn't the most useful car I've owned. So it became my daily.

I had considered exactly what you are suggesting as far as running fronts only and using a 4 channel. My concern was how it would sound for passengers in the back.

The front factory sub is 6". Some people have done modifications to fit beefier subs in there, but it really seems like getting the JL 10" is the better option because it will be bigger and better, and the install seems RELATIVELY easy.

Lets say I just get front components- what do you all like these days? I've liked what I read about some of the stuff being made in USA like Sundown. But that's just it- I've read about it, never actually heard it.
 
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T

TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
Hi Touchmytweeter,

I'm pretty new around these parts but have been doing a ridiculous amount of research for my own system and will offer my .2c FWIW.

Subwoofer: You will find that most of the guys here are firm believers in building a box yourself. Second to that would be having a reputable shop build you something custom for the Element. Seeing as you're in Miami you shouldn't have a problem finding a shop that does Fiberglass work. The last option would be Pre-fab/Stealth enclosure like the JL one you picked out. I think for what you would pay for that JL stealthbox you could probably get a shop in Miami to build you a custom fiberglass enclosure that goes in the same space and put a much nice subwoofer into it. Price out what a custom fiberglass enclosure would run you then put a Fi Audio Alpha or XV3 - 2 Ohm into it. Everything depends on the enclosure but these subs will be a much better 'bang' for your buck than the JL's are. (If you pardon my pun there...lol)

Alpha: https://ficaraudio.com/product/alpha-v2-1-series/
XV3: https://ficaraudio.com/product/xv3-series/

Read up on sealed enclosure recommendations and then depending on what enclosure you go for (hopefully custom fiberglass with carpet) you should still come out spending less than you would on the JL Stealthbox. SSA subwoofers would be another great option, again all depending on what you end up with for enclosure cu/ft volume. Just match sealed enclosure specs to a Fi or SSA sub.

Amp: Now, with the Sub and enclosure matched running at 2 ohm. I'd recommend the Sundown SAE-1100.5. They're Korean made but Sundown has a huge following in the hobbyist world and the amp's make good power without heating up. Another option depending on budget would be Orion or if you're limited due to space a Alpine PDX-V9 would work as well. Just note that the Orion's and Alpine's can get warmer than their Sundown counterparts (from what I've read) especially under a seat without much airflow. FWIW, I personally had a PDX-M6 fail and meltdown a Sub but many others have had great results with them.

Speakers - I'm personally a huge fan of CDT and with the 5-Channel Amp I recommended you're gonna want 2-Ohm Mid's to run the amp's rated 120Wx4. So bearing that in mind I'd say CDT CL-650.2 up front and CDT CL-61CV.2 (2 Ohm version) for the rears. (These stay within your stated budget and meet all other criteria). Focal and Hertz are other great options but I don't know if you'll find 6.5 Components/Coax @ 2 Ohm in your price range with those brands.

Deck - I'm partial to Pioneer's NEX series but if you only care about Android Auto then I'd say the Kenwood DDX8905S or DDX9905S will be your best bet and meets your budget. Compare the two and go with whichever you like more.

I've given you a few options to play with where you can adjust your budget just in case the Audio shops in your area charge a lot for custom sub enclosures to meet the unique needs of your Element. Hopefully this helps but as anyone will tell you - The sub enclosure will make or break how the system sounds overall. Most would recommend building a tuned MDF enclosure and putting it in the back of your car - Space be damned, but as I'm in the same boat as you. Whereas I'm having a shop custom fit a sealed fiberglass enclosure for my car for $280, hopefully you can find a shop in your area to do the same. Once you have Cu/ft, then pick your sub, then match amp and match speakers to the 5-Channel you end up going with.
I suppose I could ask around about local shops and see if any would be able to make something happen the way you describe. I have a low trust of local proprietors in general in this city- its not the easiest place on earth to find quality work.

Reading up on CDT now- thanks for that recommendation. I have seen some lower-end focal and Hertz available in my range. I just hate the China aspect- nothing against China per se, but I've had enough bad experiences with things manufactured there that my trust is lacking. That said, most of the made in USA stuff is just screwed together here using Chinese parts anyhow so perhaps I am kidding myself.

As for the under-seat amp- the good thing in the element is the rear seats are elevated, and on the Gen 1 Element there's damn near 6 inches of wide open space under there, so hopefully airflow will be adequate. I was thinking of mounting hangars and having the amp float like 2 inches down from the seat and an inch up from the ground to really give it some breathing room.

On the deck, yeah- having Android Auto will make the navigation mirror the way it works on the phone, and my wife will be happy. Keeping her happy is a key to my success. After all, this whole process started because I am going to be stealing her car to tow a small trailer to the racetrack on weekends and she asked for a backup cam on the Element. I had to explain that a backup cam meant a new deck, and a new deck wouldn't work right without an amp and new speakers. Lol.
 

fithwheel

Member
Dec 8, 2017
1,124
242
indiana
Idk what kinda of airspace you'll be working with but dayton ho subs will work in small sealed enclosures. They're sq oriented subs at a very reasonable price. Maybe there are replacement empty enclosures available for your vehicle? Nothing wrong with prefab sealed enclosure if it's well built.
If you go with a hu you can run active off of using raw drivers is an economical way to go. Look around on parts express web site in the speaker component section.. I'd also suggest budgeting for sound treatment on your doors. They're your encloser for your mids and should be sealed off. Lot of good YouTube videos on how to treat your doors. I'd forget the rears and do a active 2 way in the front..
 
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02WS6

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jan 12, 2020
147
59
Sacramento
I suppose I could ask around about local shops and see if any would be able to make something happen the way you describe. I have a low trust of local proprietors in general in this city- its not the easiest place on earth to find quality work.

Reading up on CDT now- thanks for that recommendation. I have seen some lower-end focal and Hertz available in my range. I just hate the China aspect- nothing against China per se, but I've had enough bad experiences with things manufactured there that my trust is lacking. That said, most of the made in USA stuff is just screwed together here using Chinese parts anyhow so perhaps I am kidding myself.

As for the under-seat amp- the good thing in the element is the rear seats are elevated, and on the Gen 1 Element there's damn near 6 inches of wide open space under there, so hopefully airflow will be adequate. I was thinking of mounting hangars and having the amp float like 2 inches down from the seat and an inch up from the ground to really give it some breathing room.

On the deck, yeah- having Android Auto will make the navigation mirror the way it works on the phone, and my wife will be happy. Keeping her happy is a key to my success. After all, this whole process started because I am going to be stealing her car to tow a small trailer to the racetrack on weekends and she asked for a backup cam on the Element. I had to explain that a backup cam meant a new deck, and a new deck wouldn't work right without an amp and new speakers. Lol.
Ahh the 'ole domino effect on the wife argument. I've been there and it works well! LOL

I know how you feel about shops, it difficult finding reputable places. I did some searching around Yelp and came up with Total Auto Protection? Looks like they've done a few fiberglass enclosures for customers and are 5-Star rated. Wouldn't hurt just to ask them for a quote on a box build and you install everything else yourself? I think once you know what you're doing with your Sub/Enclosure you can build everything else around that as its currently a limiting factor.

Many will recommend dumping the rears as well but I usually keep mine as I prefer the balanced sound from a F/R system. I currently only run high-level off of my deck but in the past on a smaller budget, I ran my mid's on an MRV-F340 that I was happy with.
 
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TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
Idk what kinda of airspace you'll be working with but dayton ho subs will work in small sealed enclosures. They're sq oriented subs at a very reasonable price. Maybe there are replacement empty enclosures available for your vehicle? Nothing wrong with prefab sealed enclosure if it's well built.
If you go with a hu you can run active off of using raw drivers is an economical way to go. Look around on parts express web site in the speaker component section.. I'd also suggest budgeting for sound treatment on your doors. They're your encloser for your mids and should be sealed off. Lot of good YouTube videos on how to treat your doors. I'd forget the rears and do a active 2 way in the front..
Oh man, this is the thing I keep reading about. Active. So to do active, I need an amp channel dedicated to each speaker, right? Meaning I'd still have a 5 channel, with ch 1 for L tweet, 2 for L Woof, 3 for R Tweet, 4 for R woof, and 5 for sub? And no crossover, because instead I use either HPF/LPF on the sub or control the frequencies on the outputs with the deck? Seems like a scary new world... As for door treatment I will watch some youtube tonight to see how all of that works.


Ahh the 'ole domino effect on the wife argument. I've been there and it works well! LOL

I know how you feel about shops, it difficult finding reputable places. I did some searching around Yelp and came up with Total Auto Protection? Looks like they've done a few fiberglass enclosures for customers and are 5-Star rated. Wouldn't hurt just to ask them for a quote on a box build and you install everything else yourself? I think once you know what you're doing with your Sub/Enclosure you can build everything else around that as its currently a limiting factor.

Many will recommend dumping the rears as well but I usually keep mine as I prefer the balanced sound from a F/R system. I currently only run high-level off of my deck but in the past on a smaller budget, I ran my mid's on an MRV-F340 that I was happy with.
That shop is only like 10 miles from my house (in Miami, that still means 30+ minutes, but that's another story). Perhaps I will try to swing by to gather some data.
 

Louisiana_CRX

dem shoes......
10+ year member
Aug 22, 2006
38,898
277
Piney Hills of Louisiana
Oh man, this is the thing I keep reading about. Active. So to do active, I need an amp channel dedicated to each speaker, right? Meaning I'd still have a 5 channel, with ch 1 for L tweet, 2 for L Woof, 3 for R Tweet, 4 for R woof, and 5 for sub? And no crossover, because instead I use either HPF/LPF on the sub or control the frequencies on the outputs with the deck? Seems like a scary new world... As for door treatment I will watch some youtube tonight to see how all of that works.




That shop is only like 10 miles from my house (in Miami, that still means 30+ minutes, but that's another story). Perhaps I will try to swing by to gather some data.
There’s nothing really tricky on that vehicle and you may want to consider crutchfield they have good warranties and sale prices .. also with your purchase they supply several vehicle specific papers on how to do the installation yourself plus plenty of tech support if in a bind. I’ve used them off and on for years . Most shops these days carve high prices for inferior work .
 

fithwheel

Member
Dec 8, 2017
1,124
242
indiana
Oh man, this is the thing I keep reading about. Active. So to do active, I need an amp channel dedicated to each speaker, right? Meaning I'd still have a 5 channel, with ch 1 for L tweet, 2 for L Woof, 3 for R Tweet, 4 for R woof, and 5 for sub? And no crossover, because instead I use either HPF/LPF on the sub or control the frequencies on the outputs with the deck? Seems like a scary new world... As for door treatment I will watch some youtube tonight to see how all of that works.

Pretty much correct. The head unit will have a 3 way crossover instead of the typical 2 way. High pass bandpass and low pass filters. Gives you the ability to change crossover points and slopes to each component. Yes you will have to amp each component separately.
Keeping it all in the front will keep your sound stage in front of you. Use time alignment to put the sound in the center of the dash or above your gauge cluster. Whatever you prefer. Rears will pull everything to the rear. I've got rear fill in one of my vehicles. I keep them turned off. Some like rear fill but there's a negative impact on your sound stage imo.
 
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TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
Forgive my ignorance on the active crossover- As I read through the specs on various decks, I see that the HPF ends at 200-250Hz. Wouldn't you want a LOT higher for a tweeter? Amps also have a HPF, but again they seem to all tap out by 250Hz.
 

fithwheel

Member
Dec 8, 2017
1,124
242
indiana
Forgive my ignorance on the active crossover- As I read through the specs on various decks, I see that the HPF ends at 200-250Hz. Wouldn't you want a LOT higher for a tweeter? Amps also have a HPF, but again they seem to all tap out by 250Hz.
You need to be looking at head units with a three way crossover. Sounds like you're looking at 2 way. Try looking at them on crutchfield. They have very detailed information. Pick out an hu then go to the details section then scroll down to the audio section
 
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TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
You need to be looking at head units with a three way crossover. Sounds like you're looking at 2 way. Try looking at them on crutchfield. They have very detailed information. Pick out an hu then go to the details section then scroll down to the audio section
Ahhh.... I see. I surprised the one I was looking at didn't have something, given its price. Was looking at Kenwood DDX9905S mainly because it has the good screen, and you can easily override the stupid "parking brake must be engaged" nonsense to access all of the menus. Android auto is a definite want.

Now I see that a different offering they have does seem to have a 3-way crossover. Plus, it looks like maybe I can set a given channel to "Tweeter" and then the high pass can be put up really high if I want. DMX9706S
The specs for that are listed as follows:
(forgive the wall of text- just trying to be thorough here)
  • 2-Way Crossover: Allows you to set high-pass and low-pass crossovers for a standard Tweeter, Front, Rear, and Subwoofer speaker setup.
    • Speaker Size: select which size speakers are in your vehicle.
      • Tweeter: Small, Medium, Large, or None
      • Front & Rear: 3.5", 4", 4.75", 5", 6.5", 6.75", 7", 4x6", 5x7", 6x8", 6x9", 7x10" or None
      • Subwoofer: 6.5", 8", 10", 12", 15" or greater, None
    • X'Over: Select the high pass or low pass crossover settings for your speakers.
      • Tweeter:high pass filter (HPF)
        • Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
      • Front & Rear:high pass filter (HPF)
        • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
        • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
      • Sub:low pass filter (LPF)
        • Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
        • Slope: -6dB, -12dB, -18dB, -24dB
        • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
  • 3-Way Crossover: Allows you to set high-pass and low-pass crossovers for a complex 3-way speaker system with Highs, Mids, and Sub.
    • Speaker Size: select which size speakers are in your vehicle.
      • Tweeter: Small, Medium, Large, or None
      • Midrange: 3.5", 4", 4.75", 5", 6.5", 6.75", 7", 4x6", 5x7", 6x8", or 6x9"
      • Woofer: 6.5", 8", 10", 12", 15" or greater, None
    • X'Over: Select the high pass or low pass crossover settings for your speakers.
      • Tweeter:high pass filter (HPF)
        • HPF Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
        • Slope: -6dB, -12dB
        • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
      • Midrange:high pass filter (HPF) & low pass filter (LPF)
        • HPF Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
        • LPF Frequency: 1kHz, 1.6kHz, 2.5kHz, 4kHz, 5kHz, 6.3kHz, 8kHz, 10kHz, 12.5kHz
        • Slope: -6dB, -12dB
        • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
      • Woofer: low pass filter (LPF)
        • LPF Frequency: 30Hz, 40Hz, 50Hz, 60Hz, 70Hz, 80Hz, 90Hz, 100Hz, 120Hz, 150Hz, 180Hz, 220Hz, 250Hz, Through (Full-Range)
        • Slope: -6dB, -12dB
        • Phase: Reverse (180°), Normal (0°)
        • Gain: -8 to 0 dB
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
671
92
irvine, ca
This spiraled, got all the way to a dsp.

active capable android auto ready Pioneer unit is $300. 13 band eq isn’t bad and likely connects to the app that extends to 31



plenty of recommendations on the forum for my first active setup. My active setup in my suv screams and I don’t have crazy amounts of expensive treatment or a dsp (I have some treatment). Ditched rears

pioneer gmd 9705 would be heck of a lot cheaper than that alpine or sundown amp recommendation. Those are pricey amps for an ask of a 2005 Honda that’s basically a Dog carrier. You could select quality but budget minded products then pull the trigger on a stealthbox. Your perros arent gonna love crazy bass output anyways

something over those side ledges would be cool. Probably not a terribly costly custom build with wood. Amp on one side, slim sub on the other.

19978
 
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TouchMyTweeter

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jan 16, 2020
9
2
Miami
I think my last question was misinterpreted. I was asking where to buy separate woofer/tweeters that arent packaged with a crossover. I've since found them. Not planning to do a dsp- if I go active I'd use a deck with a 3-way crossover option built in.

Interesting that you mention that pioneer amp- literally was just looking at the specs for that. Might be good.

Car is actually my daily driver in addition to hauling dogs and bikes and home depot runs.
 
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